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Discussion Starter #1
Here are a couple of pictures of what I am dealing with. The lower balljoint dust cap is being pinched between the 2" drop spindle and CPP mini subframe kit lower control arm. This is when the car is jacked up off the ground. Both boots have multiple holes in them and I have 600-700 miles on everything.

Is this normal? also the upper boot is toast on the drivers side. I almost think these spindles are for a 68-74 Nova, but any input would be helpful. I was told today this is normal by someone at CPP.



 

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Well it is a problem.I put Button Head Allens in mine and ground the spindle to make clearance.
 

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Normal? I hope not. Just from the pics it looks like the boot is being pinched because the CA plate is too close the the ball joint housing. Looks like a bolt head is contacting it too.

Your pic, was that at ride height?? Or full droop? If its at ride height what is the angle of the lower control arm? That ball joint is angled in alot for ride height, not bad at full droop though. Pics may distort it though. JR
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The picture was taken with it on a jack and wheel off the car. Ok, another question is what happened with this kit from when NOGO did the write up, to me installing mine?

NOGO's installed picture-look at the huge amount of space compared to mine


I undersand he has stock spindles, but it looks like the lower balljoint is at least a 1/2" shorter on mine.

The boot is being pinched between the two. Every time I jack the car up another hole is formed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
My spindle looks like it's seated too far into the lower balljoint. I thought on our cars they sat up higher, as compared to the 68-74 cars?

Even with added material on NOGO's spindle it still would clear the control arm under full droop.

Chuck, what spindle would you recommend for your setup? I'm giving you a call once I have new lower balljoints for my kit so I can sell it.
 

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I'm fairly new to the forum; joined in Jan as I started a wagon project, but have seem more threads than i'd like too about problems with CPP, where I just do not feel comfortable purchasing from them (at least with their brakes; seems to be a lot of pros on the mini-subframe kit). You might save some ****, but it appears you pay for it with headaches.

Hey; no bashing here; just putting in my $0.02.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm not bashing any vendor here either. I just was making sure I covered my bases first. This website is a wealth of knowledge, and I know this exact combo has been done more than a few times before.

I take my family in this car and need it to be safe. I'm not sure it currently is with the given combination of parts the way they fit together.
 

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Here is the way mine was before.It is really only an issue with the front wheels are off the ground.With the car on the ground the bind does not exist.Here the spindle is bound up on the ball joint bolt head



Here is after clearancing and installing Button head allen bolts.All of the pictures are with the front wheels off the ground with the suspension at full droop.



It is not a safety issue just a marginal design flaw.I suppose the joints would wear out quicker once the boots are torn open and will not hold grease.Need to keep an eye on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree when the wheels are on the ground there is enough clearance. My biggest problem is I have 3 torn dust boots out of 4. I still don't know why the drivers upper ball joint tore open.
Does anyone make replacement boots?
When I talked to Danny C. at CPP he said the dust boots by themselves were not available. That means I need to buy three new balljoints at roughly $50/each, or keep wiping the grease up that comes out of them.
 

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YUP!!! I had crappy thin rubber dust covers and really, they were just eating themselves up with age and movement. Went to some poly boots and they are hanging in there. As long as you dont have abrasion issues... But the thin rubber boots arent worth a crap.

And with the diff between nogo and you, sure he doesnt have tall ball joints???? Dunno, that pic shown of his was at ride height, not full droop like what you show for yours. Full droop isnt what Id like to see a pic of on yours, how bout at ride height, thats what matters. JR
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks for the link. I'll also change that bolt out and clearance the bottom of the spindle a little. I'm glad all this stuff works together so well. ;)

What part numbers, or the best place to buy from? I'll take it apart soon to get it taken care of and cleaned up.
 

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motoboy.......you asked about the style of spindle that I recommend, if you can get a set of spindles that are similar to a stock spindle or even a stock spindle its self that would be great. The beefier spindles are beefy and strong but do cause some issues. Your ball joints appear to engage further into the spindle due to the extra material on the spindle. You can have a lower boss that is 5" thick, but the top of the ball joint needs to come out the top far enough so that the castle nut and cotter pin is located properly. This is the case with the thicker spindles.....the material is added and it shows on the ball joint pinch point.
 

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It's hard to beleive a company that depends on aftermarket buyers for it's livelihood continues to sell products that the customer has to grind on to fit.Notice im not naming any company.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, I agree.
I was also told to not grind on the spindle when I suggested it, it was designed that way and making that area would weaken the spindle is the way it was explained to me.

I'll take my chances.
 

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Once I get my new upper and lower arms I will be putting energy suspension cups on the ball joints. I already put them on the body moints.
 

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Once I get my new upper and lower arms I will be putting energy suspension cups on the ball joints. I already put them on the body mounts.
 

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I agree when the wheels are on the ground there is enough clearance. My biggest problem is I have 3 torn dust boots out of 4. I still don't know why the drivers upper ball joint tore open.
Does anyone make replacement boots?
When I talked to Danny C. at CPP he said the dust boots by themselves were not available. That means I need to buy three new balljoints at roughly $50/each, or keep wiping the grease up that comes out of them.
If you opt for new ball joints be sure to get authenic moog ball joints at your local auto parts. The cpp ball joints are china made crap.
Not to be bashing or anything:rolleyes:
 
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