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A more efficient water pump....cast impeller...flow kooler disc.....and or spinning the pump faster with the smallest WP pulley and largest crank pulley you can find. But addressing the airflow would seem to be first if the car stays cool when moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Could the crank retard be programmed to not retard the timing once the engine is running? IE: turn off at 500 rpm. Then have enough timing for idle and a cooler idle temperature.
Yes, the crank retard is set up to pull out timing during crank only, as soon as you let go of the key it goes to the programmed setting for the rpm it is running at
 

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Fighting the same issue in my 65 with a healthy 385 inch small block. One major problem is the car we chose. The Chevy II's just have a problem when you start adding horse power. I noticed on your diagram where you are turning your fans on one at a time. If I was having cooling problems I think I would turn both of my fans on at the same time and would probably drop the temperature that both come on if it is programmable. I would also try a high flow water pump if you could find one compatible with your blower pulleys. I'm running two twelve inch fans on my car but they are slim line Spals. I tried their good straight blade fans but had clearance problems with my front runner system. I think if I can figure out how to get them on without hitting anything my car will cool. Just like you as long as I'm moving my car cools fine. It's just the extreme stop and go that heats it up. I am thinking about installing a upper radiator fill panel before summer gets here just to see if it will make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Fighting the same issue in my 65 with a healthy 385 inch small block. One major problem is the car we chose. The Chevy II's just have a problem when you start adding horse power. I noticed on your diagram where you are turning your fans on one at a time. If I was having cooling problems I think I would turn both of my fans on at the same time and would probably drop the temperature that both come on if it is programmable. I would also try a high flow water pump if you could find one compatible with your blower pulleys. I'm running two twelve inch fans on my car but they are slim line Spals. I tried their good straight blade fans but had clearance problems with my front runner system. I think if I can figure out how to get them on without hitting anything my car will cool. Just like you as long as I'm moving my car cools fine. It's just the extreme stop and go that heats it up. I am thinking about installing a upper radiator fill panel before summer gets here just to see if it will make a difference.
I am researching fans now, trying to find something better that will fit with the belts and pulleys. I also made a fill panel last year and it did help a bit, seems like everything I try gets me a couple more minutes or degrees. Good luck on yours.
 

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Might
Ok folks I am looking for some help in engineering an "Out of the box" solution for a problem I have with my 66 Chevy II.
I have a 871 blown 355 in my car and I have good coolant temp control whenever the car is moving, not an issue, if I am driving, even at low speeds like 10 mph, she will keep the temp around 200. The problem is when I am caught in a stop and go traffic situation, I can hold out for maybe 20 - 30 minutes before it starts to run away and there is nothing I can do except turn her off and wait to cool down. I have an alarm set at 230 to warn me so I can take action to get out of the situation.

I have tried EVERYTHING, large radiator, dual fans with shroud, moved oil cooler from front of rad to another location, I mean everything I can think of but cannot solve this problem. I have had some say that I need a bigger radiator, but this would require moving all the other stuff up front to the trunk, don't want to do this as this is a street toy. There is just not enough room in the engine compartment for that. This is not a new problem, I have been dealing with it since I built the car in 99.
This is my new direction I am thinking about, I am planning to build a "Oh Sh%t" system for when I get caught in a situation where I have no choice but to shut her down.
My plan is to add a fogger system in front of the radiator to give the cooling system a chill and try to recover, even for a little while, until I can get out of the traffic or start rolling again.
Is this a good idea? Would NOS work for this? Is there a better way to get back under control of the temps?
Just looking for opinions as the car is in for paint now and I am planning to do Power Tour this year but have heard horror stories about the traffic on tours past.
I posted this on Facebook groups and received suggestions for my situation, tons of good information but as usual there are many opposing options so I need to sort through it all.

I know that one of the problems is airflow through the radiator when at idle and I need to address that.
The way I see it is that I have two issues, one is the heat generation in the engine, the other is heat removal in the cooling system, I need to find a balance I can live with.

My plan when it comes home from the paint shop is this,
1. Verify ignition timing curve. I have heard that I need to advance the timing and also that I need to retard the timing.

2. Look into better electric cooling fans. This is restricted to the space in the engine compartment and the fact that I have an 871 blower with large pulley and belt system. Many have said I need to go to a mechanical fan, can't happen with my setup.

3. Look into radiator construction, I have heard that I need a multi-pass radiator. I have now a single pass, 2 row B-Cool aluminum radiator. I have read quite a few posts on this issue and the same thing, many different options, pros and cons. Some say that I can get a 24 degree drop in the coolant returning to the engine but at a cost of reduced flow. Is this really a good idea?

So all you professional and shade tree engineers, please jump in and give me some ideas.
Ok folks I am looking for some help in engineering an "Out of the box" solution for a problem I have with my 66 Chevy II.
I have a 871 blown 355 in my car and I have good coolant temp control whenever the car is moving, not an issue, if I am driving, even at low speeds like 10 mph, she will keep the temp around 200. The problem is when I am caught in a stop and go traffic situation, I can hold out for maybe 20 - 30 minutes before it starts to run away and there is nothing I can do except turn her off and wait to cool down. I have an alarm set at 230 to warn me so I can take action to get out of the situation.

I have tried EVERYTHING, large radiator, dual fans with shroud, moved oil cooler from front of rad to another location, I mean everything I can think of but cannot solve this problem. I have had some say that I need a bigger radiator, but this would require moving all the other stuff up front to the trunk, don't want to do this as this is a street toy. There is just not enough room in the engine compartment for that. This is not a new problem, I have been dealing with it since I built the car in 99.
This is my new direction I am thinking about, I am planning to build a "Oh Sh%t" system for when I get caught in a situation where I have no choice but to shut her down.
My plan is to add a fogger system in front of the radiator to give the cooling system a chill and try to recover, even for a little while, until I can get out of the traffic or start rolling again.
Is this a good idea? Would NOS work for this? Is there a better way to get back under control of the temps?
Just looking for opinions as the car is in for paint now and I am planning to do Power Tour this year but have heard horror stories about the traffic on tours past.
I posted this on Facebook groups and received suggestions for my situation, tons of good information but as usual there are many opposing options so I need to sort through it all.

I know that one of the problems is airflow through the radiator when at idle and I need to address that.
The way I see it is that I have two issues, one is the heat generation in the engine, the other is heat removal in the cooling system, I need to find a balance I can live with.

My plan when it comes home from the paint shop is this,
1. Verify ignition timing curve. I have heard that I need to advance the timing and also that I need to retard the timing.

2. Look into better electric cooling fans. This is restricted to the space in the engine compartment and the fact that I have an 871 blower with large pulley and belt system. Many have said I need to go to a mechanical fan, can't happen with my setup.

3. Look into radiator construction, I have heard that I need a multi-pass radiator. I have now a single pass, 2 row B-Cool aluminum radiator. I have read quite a few posts on this issue and the same thing, many different options, pros and cons. Some say that I can get a 24 degree drop in the coolant returning to the engine but at a cost of reduced flow. Is this really a good idea?

So all you professional and shade tree engineers, please jump in and give me some ideas.
Some say the higher the CFM the higher the amp draw. Something to look at while checking out fans.
Maybe a two-speed fan.
 

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Ok folks I am looking for some help in engineering an "Out of the box" solution for a problem I have with my 66 Chevy II.
I have a 871 blown 355 in my car and I have good coolant temp control whenever the car is moving, not an issue, if I am driving, even at low speeds like 10 mph, she will keep the temp around 200. The problem is when I am caught in a stop and go traffic situation, I can hold out for maybe 20 - 30 minutes before it starts to run away and there is nothing I can do except turn her off and wait to cool down. I have an alarm set at 230 to warn me so I can take action to get out of the situation.

I have tried EVERYTHING, large radiator, dual fans with shroud, moved oil cooler from front of rad to another location, I mean everything I can think of but cannot solve this problem. I have had some say that I need a bigger radiator, but this would require moving all the other stuff up front to the trunk, don't want to do this as this is a street toy. There is just not enough room in the engine compartment for that. This is not a new problem, I have been dealing with it since I built the car in 99.
This is my new direction I am thinking about, I am planning to build a "Oh Sh%t" system for when I get caught in a situation where I have no choice but to shut her down.
My plan is to add a fogger system in front of the radiator to give the cooling system a chill and try to recover, even for a little while, until I can get out of the traffic or start rolling again.
Is this a good idea? Would NOS work for this? Is there a better way to get back under control of the temps?
Just looking for opinions as the car is in for paint now and I am planning to do Power Tour this year but have heard horror stories about the traffic on tours past.
I posted this on Facebook groups and received suggestions for my situation, tons of good information but as usual there are many opposing options so I need to sort through it all.

I know that one of the problems is airflow through the radiator when at idle and I need to address that.
The way I see it is that I have two issues, one is the heat generation in the engine, the other is heat removal in the cooling system, I need to find a balance I can live with.

My plan when it comes home from the paint shop is this,
1. Verify ignition timing curve. I have heard that I need to advance the timing and also that I need to retard the timing.

2. Look into better electric cooling fans. This is restricted to the space in the engine compartment and the fact that I have an 871 blower with large pulley and belt system. Many have said I need to go to a mechanical fan, can't happen with my setup.

3. Look into radiator construction, I have heard that I need a multi-pass radiator. I have now a single pass, 2 row B-Cool aluminum radiator. I have read quite a few posts on this issue and the same thing, many different options, pros and cons. Some say that I can get a 24 degree drop in the coolant returning to the engine but at a cost of reduced flow. Is this really a good idea?

So all you professional and shade tree engineers, please jump in and give me some ideas.
Call Ron Davis radiators if they can’t fix the problem nobody can 1800-842-5166 I have been running one of there crossflow radiators in my 72 nova with a 632 and my car won’t break 190 in traffic during the summer No matter how long I sit in one place Supper Happy With my purchase their dual fan set up moves some serious CFM!!
 

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I have a 406 with a 871 in a 66 Nova. Fought heat for years. Best answer was an Autorad cor support and radiator.

Couple years ago I changed over to E85. That made a huge difference. I always wondered if I could have saved the big radiator and just changed to E85 sooner.

I have Chassis Works font end with fender wells installed. Street driven in South Florida.

Steve
 

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Hi volume water pump [Stewart]. Rad capacity to match ur HP. 4000 - 6000 cfm fan Spal had new brushless types @ Nov SEMA display capable of that range. Tarus fan helped my app . 400hp with AC on in 100f+ texas summer heat.
Above should help ur problem. PeteD
 

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With the need to have high flow of coolant for the best cooling, Nobody has mentioned the thermostat. It should be the largest one that is used for towing normally but is actually for any vehicle that needs the most flow. Robertshaw is one manufacture. No sense having a restriction of the smaller regular thermostats found in almost every car.
 

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i spoke to Ron Davis... very helpfull... i have a BB making 700hp... i was told by him to order the dual 12'' Spal fans that flow 3150cfm .. swears by them...they are squered or curved blades and that makes a difference... in the process of installing atm.... they are a shrouded unit with rubber flaps that move or open when driving to allow natural flow out of the shroud and seal to make the fans work at their optimum when stopped... i did also order a 31'' long radiator .. the core is 27'' wide... not sure if you have anything close to that size... mine is a 1970 unlike yours... ....
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I am concentrating on two things now, the electric fans need to be better but I have a space problem so I need to do some investigation as to the options available. The other issue is the water pump, I read a post somewhere yesterday where the poster mentioned he had tried swapping out the pump. When he pulled it he found it was a reverse rotation pump, it was a Weiand short pump, same as mine. He stated that the pump was ordered as the correct one but was boxed incorrectly and was for a serpentine belt system. Might have just stumbled on something here !
I did notice after some review of the data in my logs that just before the stat opened the radiator output had started to climb in temp, is it possible the pump is trying to force the coolant into the rad backwards?
We will see as soon as the car gets back from paint and I start re-assembling it.
 

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That could be . . . . . . and, still pays too check . . . . . (then, you know for sure ) , good job .
Every thing helps . Let us know if you get better . Very interesting read .
 
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