[Hawk1]

Ok, I'm not sure what approach to take on this.
I installed the studs with ARP thread sealer (teflon white paste) as suggested by ARP. Only to find a majority of the studs on drivers side and maybe one or two on passenger side are leaking up into the valve covers and also some of the shorter studs under the headers. I found this after breaking in the cam, I re-installed the inner valve springs and found the coolant in the low areas of the heads. Also, slight milky color in the oil. No coolant in the cylinders.

A search has found that some have used a coolant sealer and others red rtv sealant.

Do I use a can of the coolant sealer and try to seal it.

Or

Can I pull one stud at a time, leaving the heads and intake (with blower) installed, and use the red rtv sealant.

Or

Pull heads, manifold, etc, and chase head threads clean then use red rtv.

Any other options I might have missed?
Thanks for your help,

 

[Real McCoy]

There was just a post on this subject. I almost always have stud leaks and from the replies to that other post most others do as well. I run water in my motors so I just put a light pressure cap on the radiator and mine seem to always seal up quickly. Others use sealers. Not a uncommon problem. Pulling the studs and trying different sealer never worked for me or for people I know. I've tried every sealer I have ever seen with no luck. Try looking for that other post for alot of replies. RM

 

[Paul Wright]

Here's that other thread:

coolant leak

 

[Ironman]

I used ultra copper on my last engine and never had a problem with head bolts leaking. I was told just today from a local engine builder that you can get incorrect torque readings using RTV. He uses a non hardening teflon paste, which one I don't know.

 

[Hawk1]

Here's that other thread:

coolant leak

Paul that thread had to do with a waterpump leak.

Still searching...

 

[Hawk1]

I used ultra copper on my last engine and never had a problem with head bolts leaking. I was told just today from a local engine builder that you can get incorrect torque readings using RTV. He uses a non hardening teflon paste, which one I don't know.

With studs you wouldn't get an incorrect torque reading. Ultra copper is similiar to the red rtv, I think the ultra has a higher temp rating?

 

[Ironman]

With studs you wouldn't get an incorrect torque reading. Ultra copper is similiar to the red rtv, I think the ultra has a higher temp rating?

My bad, overlooked the stud part. Thanks for the catch.

 

[Real McCoy]

Not sure if I did this right but this is the link I was referring to. RM



http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34734&highlight=studs+leak+water

 

[Paul Wright]

Paul that thread had to do with a waterpump leak.

Still searching...

Sorry, I just skimmed it and it had a referance to using head bolt thread sealers.

Here's the right one I think:

coolant at head bolt recess

 

[Hawk1]

Thanks for the links.

I'm still not certain if the stop leak is the way to go or pull each stud and try to re-seal?

I might try the stop leak first. Just not sure if it's harmfull to other parts of the cooling system. New radiator and fresh rebuild if that matters.

 

[NEVER FINISHED64]

FYI
Where I'm at now.

I used ARP bolts and ARP thread sealer. I went ahead and added stop leak and went from a 13lb radiator cap to a 7lb. When I replaced my radiator cap I noticed my overflow hose was restricted, I fixed that now also.
This afternoon I pulled my valve cover after maybe 5 hours run time and it looks much better, but I'm keeping an eye on it. Not sure if I'm just paranoid now or what.

Hope this helps

Chuck