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I am trying to find online junk yard search or any site that has used parts.
I'm about to replace my control arms, first time doing this. And I dont know how to use a coil spring compressor. I have heard they can jump out on ya, im kinda worried hope i dont put an eye out!
 

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Here is a step by step on how to change the spindles, but it still applies. Read it first so you know what you need to do and not to do, any problem post and we'll help you out.

For spindle re & re
Yes,the upper & lower A arm can stay on the frame/car.You will need a floor jack to do this.This is relatively easy, but can be dangerous if you don't exercise safety!
1) Remove the front wheel, and jack the car up as high as safely possible and support it with a jack stands.
2) Pinch the flex hose with vise grips close to the drum, and undo it.(the vise grips will stop the brake fluidfrom leaking out everywhere).
3) Undo the the stablizer link(sway bar at the lower control arm on the front side)
4)Put a chain on the spring on the engine side to hold it firmly inplace, just incase something lets go the spring won't come frying out.
5)Remove 3 cotter pins,1 from the tie rod end,2nd from the upper ball joint at the spindle, and 3rd, the lower ball joint at the spindle.
6) You can use a pickle fork and hammer or a gear puller to undo the tie rod end.I prefer a hammer and pickle fork, but it may tear the rubber dust boot.Oh do this after you remove the nut completely.
7)Now, you will loosen ONLY the upper and lower ball joint nuts no more than a 1/8" off the spindle.Once this is done you'll need a 2lb hammer, minimum and a bar about 3/4" thick to use as a punch/drift.
I prefer to do the next step from the backside or firewall side of the wheel assembly.
8) Place the punch/drift on the spindle at the lower ball joint and swing hard.It may take a couple of swings.(wear gloves and don't miss,it hurts!)It will pop, when it becomes free and you will notice the 1/8" at the nut and spindle is gone,repeat the same for the upper,hit the spindle at the upper ball joint.This usually takes a couple of good hard swings.(Becareful)
9)Now that the ball joints are free,place your jack under the lower control arm and jack it up until the lower nut become loose again, then remove the nut.
10) Slowly let the jack down and the lower ball joint should seperate, you may have to lift the spindle and upper control arm.Use a 2X4 under the upper arm to hold it up.Now you can remove the upper ball joint nut,careful here, because the front spindle assembly is going to fall when the nut comes off.
11) Reassembly place the upper arm ball joint nut to hold the new spindle in place and tighten, then jack up lower arm and install the lower ball joint in the spindle as you jack it up and put the nut on, and tighten with the lower control arm weight on the jack,it's easier.(as tight as you can)
12) Line up the castle nut for a new cotter pin and reassemble everything else and you're done.

Please becareful and ask if you're not sure.

Paul
 

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Be very carefull when messing with springs. Do not even think about doing this, without safety chaining the spring before before loosening balljoints. This could make you have a very bad day, if spring exits under pressure tword your head. Good luck.
 

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40 year old Nova springs usually don't have enough energy left in them to do much damage; I've had mine in and out a few times without a compressor. But, I know a guy that launched a McPherson strut thru the 1/4 panel of a 240Z!!
Usually a floor jack under the control arm is enough to slowly let the spring down without drama....getting new ones back in may be a different story, but I got my Moroso's in without a compressor.
 

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J.C. Whitney makes a special ball joint separator that you can use instead of a pickle fork and it wont rip up your ball joint boots while taking it apart. it works a lot better too. only thing is you should unscrew the ball joint grease fitting to release the grease pressure so it goes in easy.....
 

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J.C. Whitney makes a special ball joint separator that you can use instead of a pickle fork and it wont rip up your ball joint boots while taking it apart. it works a lot better too. only thing is you should unscrew the ball joint grease fitting to release the grease pressure so it goes in easy.....
A long brass drift with a 2lb hammer will do the same, while hitting the spindle at the ball joint.
 

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i had a hell of a time putting big block trick springs in the front of my 74. the 6 cyl springs came out easy enough. my friend had the snap on spring compressor that uses a separate slotted claw looking piece that wedges in the spring. this setup failed on me trying to put one of the trick springs back in and it sounded like a bomb went off. stripped all the threads off the compressor and jammed the nut down the end. the claw piece came flying out and stuck in the ground.

i ended up renting a generic compressor from advanced auto parts and used it upside down through the upper shock mount hole. i had to file one side just slightly and the other side didnt need any filing. this worked great and pulled the spring up into the spring pocket while i kept cranking the floor jack to keep the bottom a frame close. this may sound confusing but it worked great. i may be going though this process again this week depending on if i rebuild my front end or not. if i do ill take pictures of the method i just described.
 

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If you are going to replace the springs, you should consider replacing the ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, idler arm and shocks. Much easer to replace this stuff while it's all apart. Plus there is a good chance a lot of it will be wore out too.
 

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i had a hell of a time putting big block trick springs in the front of my 74. the 6 cyl springs came out easy enough. my friend had the snap on spring compressor that uses a separate slotted claw looking piece that wedges in the spring. this setup failed on me trying to put one of the trick springs back in and it sounded like a bomb went off. stripped all the threads off the compressor and jammed the nut down the end. the claw piece came flying out and stuck in the ground.

i ended up renting a generic compressor from advanced auto parts and used it upside down through the upper shock mount hole. i had to file one side just slightly and the other side didnt need any filing. this worked great and pulled the spring up into the spring pocket while i kept cranking the floor jack to keep the bottom a frame close. this may sound confusing but it worked great. i may be going though this process again this week depending on if i rebuild my front end or not. if i do ill take pictures of the method i just described.
just so i understand, what exactly did you have file down ? thanks
 

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i filed down the upper front shock mount. some cars may not need any filing as i only had to file one side just slightly. this let me use the spring compressor upside down by putting the threaded shaft through the upper shock mount. the washers wil rest on top of the shock mount. This pulls the spring up into the spring pocket instead of compressing the spring together. once you have the lower ball joint knocked loose you can begin to loosen the compressor and let the spring start to drop.
 
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