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Absolutely gorgeous!
Now put it together and NEVER drive it! You might scratch it and make us all cry.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
The eagle has landed! 🤣🤣
Yesterday we finally got the car back. It looks absolutely beautiful. There are a couple things here and there, but I didn't realize how much of a pain this kind of color was to lay down.

Anyway, work didn't wait long. I want to get that front suspension changed out so I needed some weight in the front. Turns out I had just the thing waiting to get slung in.
Engine went in pretty smooth. No complaints.
I did make sure to get the new front brake line set in the crossmember before hand. Im not sure how hard it would be to do after the engine was in. But I wasn't going to find out.

Finally called it a night at about 12:30am.

Bad news. The small block sits a little forther back than the big block did. Couple that with the 1/4" spacer I had to use to clearance the hydraulic throw out bearing means my driveshaft is too long by about and inch, maybe a hair more. Bummer. Ill be making some calls to local drive shift shops.

Here's some photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Really surprised with how well today went.
Got all the engine and transmission bolts in. Trans crasmember holes all lined up with only mild persuasion.
I was able to get both front suspension assemblies completely torn down. Got the new control arms on the drivers side in and realized there's no way I'm levering the coil spring into the pocket with a pry bar. Going to rent a spring compressor from Oreillys tomorrow.

I was questioning whether or not to order new calipers. But after messing with these ones, I think I better.

So overall a pretty productive day. Have some plans with the family tomorrow. So work shall resume Monday afternoon.

So excited to be getting to move forward on this pile!!

I went with stock reproduction lower arms. I don't see myself autocrossing this thing ever. So I didnt feel the need to upgrade to a tubular lower. Only reason I had to replace them was the ball joint sockets were worn and were spitting the ball joins out.

And after inspection of my global west uppers. I was sent Del a lum bushing arms instead of the poly arms I ordered and paid for. I'm not going to complain
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Going pretty strong. Working toward at least 1 pass down the Spokane County Raceway track before they close for the year.

Really going to have to adjust the tie rods till thes spring wear in a little and everything relaxes. Shes a little pigeon toed.

Got the front brakes all redone. Back drum brakes got done today.

Had to roll her outside and hose her off. It was getting kinda dusty. And I needed the garage clear to tidy up a bit.

Going to be refurbish the accelerator pedal and brake/clutch pedal assemblies tomorrow so I can work toward getting the brakes buttoned up and started on the clutch master.

Will be installing a new booster and master kit from Right Stuff. Looks like good quality hardware.

Thats it for now. Another rupdate here in a few days..
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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That is some serious looking tire tilt (negative camber) you got there with the engine, trans, and front bumper already installed.
Were the nut & bolts that attach the lower control arms to the subframe crossmember tightened while the front suspension was raised? These nuts & bolts should not be tightened until you have the front end completely reassembled and the full weight of the car resting on the front and rear suspension.
  • Since you have Delrin bushings in your GW upper control arms, tightening while the front suspension is raised is not an issue.
When you installed your coil springs, did you index them using the hole in the upper spring pocket?... or the lower control arm (you need to use hole in the upper spring pocket to correctly index the front coil springs).

If you saved you old lower control arms, you might want to measure the distance from the center of one bushing to the center of the ball joint and compare with the new lower control arms (measurement taken from the same spots).
 

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Discussion Starter #67
RifRaf
Thanks for your reply. The lower control arms were tightened while it was up in the air. Thank you for bringing that up. I will raise, loosen those points and drop it back down before tightening and report back.

The springs were indexed as you described.

That is some serious looking tire tilt (negative camber) you got there with the engine, trans, and front bumper already installed.
Were the nut & bolts that attach the lower control arms to the subframe crossmember tightened while the front suspension was raised? These nuts & bolts should not be tightened until you have the front end completely reassembled and the full weight of the car resting on the front and rear suspension.
  • Since you have Delrin bushings in your GW upper control arms, tightening while the front suspension is raised is not an issue.
When you installed your coil springs, did you index them using the hole in the upper spring pocket?... or the lower control arm (you need to use hole in the upper spring pocket to correctly index the front coil springs).

If you saved you old lower control arms, you might want to measure the distance from the center of one bushing to the center of the ball joint and compare with the new lower control arms (measurement taken from the same spots).
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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These nuts & bolts should not be tightened until you have the front end completely reassembled and the full weight of the car resting on the front and rear suspension.
I will raise, loosen those points and drop it back down before tightening and report back.
The front end also includes the inner fenders, outer fenders, hood, radiator, grill, headers, exhaust, all fluids, etc.
Just leave the lower control arm nut & bolts a little loose until everything is fully assembled. You can drop the vehicle back down on the front wheels with these nut & bolts a little loose... just don't drive the car this way!
 

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Discussion Starter #69
The front end also includes the inner fenders, outer fenders, hood, radiator, grill, headers, exhaust, all fluids, etc.
Just leave the lower control arm nut & bolts a little loose until everything is fully assembled. You can drop the vehicle back down on the front wheels with these nut & bolts a little loose... just don't drive the car this way!
Good tip 😂😂
 

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Discussion Starter #70
I loosened the lower control arm bolts and that made no difference.

But I think i just may have found the issue. My springs are clocked correctly, but not in the upper pocket. DOH!!!

Trying to remedy without tearing it all apart again.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
And just like that, there is TONS more movement. Was able to get a mini jack handle through the shock hole and one good wack seated them.

Thanks for leading me down the right path!
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Tire tilt looks much better! Good job finding the coil spring issue (y)
1596679999121.png
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I have decided that I will video log my project from here on out. With the car here, I find it easier and I'm able to cover things in much greater detail.

I will be posting the videos here from my YouTube channel.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Here's a little prequel and backstory. Not a ton of actual vehicle content. But puts perspective to the project.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here I show a little bit of the body and go over what's going on with the front suspension.

="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here I'll discuss what happened on the front suspension, brakes and what's next.

="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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