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Discussion Starter #1
I was going to go out and get the lash set on the motor while it is on the engine stand. Has a Bullet Solid roller cam in it and gives specs for hot lash settings.

I will call Bullet tomorrow and see what they recommend but I see Comp and others advise to set the last plus subtracting .006 with aluminum heads.

I can and will reset once the motor is dropped in and I get it up to temp but I want to get it close for initial startup.
 

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If it has steel heads set them normal. And .006 tight if aluminum. Also, after you get the engine in the car, and get it to operating temperature, run the valves hot just to make sure they're right. Then you should be good to go. And to set them correctly, do the 'When the exhaust starts to open, set the intake, and when the Intake starts to close, set the exhaust.' You can't go wrong doing it that way. Dave
 

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I always set mine at what is called for cold then run it and get it up to temp shut it off and pull a cover and check and see the difference. Once you have the difference then you know what to set it at cold. If it calls for .022 hot and you set it at .022 cold and then run it and recheck and it is .018 then you know you have a .004 difference and can set them all to .026 cold and be good.
 

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I've never seen the lash tighten when it's hot. I think you have it reversed. You set it at .018 to get .022 when hot in your scenario. Usually on an iron head, they don't change at all when hot. An aluminum head will grow, making the lash larger by a few thou. The heads grow but not the valve stems. Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That is correct as I understand it. Setting it cold requires you to subtract from the lash setting. I do believe though some of the combinations have you add when cold. Difference in aluminum and steel heads and blocks.
 
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