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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know or have coil springs for a mustang II Hiedts IFS. I have a 66 Nova and have tried 4 sets of springs and they all are too stiff and high. I have the softest set Heidts say's they make, a (#275 rate, 3 1/2 ID - 4 5'8 OD and 13 1/4 tall). I cannot be the only person with this problem. I have a SBC with Al. heads and a fiberglass hood, so its lighter up front. Its a drag car only so cutting a coil is not an option and its just to stiff and wasting ET. If anyone has any insight I would greatly appreciate any.

Thanks,
Chuck66
 

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You're not the only one. This has been discussed here before. I'm sure someone will steer you in the right direction. Look in the similar threads.
Are you using new springs? If so, have you given them time to set in? Sometimes new springs take a while before they start to settle/ break in.
Have you tried to find a used original set off a 4 cyl late 70's mustang II? Those would probably be worn in enough to be "softer" than new springs of the same rate.
 

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You are correct in saying that the lightest springs that Heidts has is 275#. For the street most small block early Novas need 300# coils. The lightest factory springs were in the 73-80 4 cylinder Pinto. If those are too stiff you may have to go to a spring shop and have a custom set made.
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your help guys. My lower c. arms are parallel with the ground. I am gonna do some searching and check out what a set would cost from a shop to custom make. Maybe I will just leave well enough alone, its hitting 1.38 60 ft's, it just looks weird being higher in the front. Thanks.
 

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The a-arms should be level to the ground when the spring rate is correct. If it sits too high maybe you need to install dropped spindles.
Tim
 

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300# springs too much for my '66 also

I have a '66 with a TCI clip, alum heads, T56 and the battery in the trunk. I started off with TCI's standard springs. My suspension was at the top and it didn't matter if Jabba the Hut sat on the core support, it stayed full up. They turned out to be 350 pounders. They said it was their mistake sending BB springs, they were mis-marked as 300's. TCI was very helpful.

They traded me a set of 300's and I put them in and now they have about 400 miles on them. The suspension is still too high and the lower A arms measure 4 degrees to the floor. They started out at 5 degrees. The ride on the front end is rough and shakes the fenders on modest bumps while the leafs ride very nicely. The rear springs are new stock rate multileafs and I like that ride height. My front end needs to drop at least an inch or more.

Colorado roads can get nasty so yesterday I decided to give Heidt's 275's a shot and ordered a set. If it drops too much over time, I'll insert some rubber spring pads to raise it back up. I think I'll be happier with the softer rate. I'll report the news after 500 miles or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, it seems to be working out. I ordered a set of Hiedts #275's just like I have in the car, was just curious and these springs are a few years old and just wanted to rule them out by making sure they were the right one's sent to me. I decided to go against logic and take 3/4 of a coil off. Worst that happens is I trash a set of spring. Turns out the front end dropped alittle, still high but better even with no break in yet, however, I finally have up and down movement on the frontend. It lifts a few inches and I am able to actually bounce it a good amount, instead of no movement like before. It launches 100% better and and has positive weight transfer. Its all about trial and error I guess, but thanks for all the comments.
 

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Glad things are working out better for you. I've always thought the spring height was always a little too tall for these MII suspensions. I've always heard that cutting a coil increases the spring rate and would make it harder to compress. But this seems to be the opposite in your case. It would make more sense that removing a coil or two would decrease the rate since there would be that much less spring to compress and much less stored spring energy for the vehicle weight to work against.
 

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I decided to go against logic and take 3/4 of a coil off. Worst that happens is I trash a set of spring. Turns out the front end dropped alittle, still high but better even with no break in yet, however, I finally have up and down movement on the frontend. It lifts a few inches and I am able to actually bounce it a good amount, instead of no movement like before. It launches 100% better and and has positive weight transfer. Its all about trial and error I guess.
Not to highjack this thread, but I thought I would share my situation to inform others who might be in a similar situation. Which seems to be a common one with these MII suspensions in a early Nova.
I finally assembled my MII front end the other day and I had about the same problem you described above. I have a heidits weld in crossmember with their full lower economy A arms. i have a set of Heidts 350 rate springs that i bought from a member here. As I suspected,there was too much spring height from too many coils in the spring. When I first installed them, the springs kinda bowed out on the side and the lower A arms were not parallel with the frame. The springs would rub against the shocks as well. It sat too high, was too stiff and had no spring travel. I have the engine in it and my dad and I sat and placed our full weight on opposite sides to simulate the rest of the front end weight. The springs would not budge and had no bounce in them.
I went ahead and removed them and cut one full coil off each one and reinstalled everything. This made a world of difference in my case as well and achieved similar results you described above. It went together easier, the lower arms are close to parallel, shocks don't rub, and it actually bounces and has spring travel now. I was tempted to cut another 1/4 coil to fully level the lower A arms parallel, but I don't have the front sheet metal bolted back on. I'll wait and see what it does when I get everything back on it and drive it around some to break the springs in. But all in all, it acts like a suspension should.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
like you I was going against what traditionally is right in not cutting springs but there was just too much spring!! It did bow outward and no movement. I only cut 3/4 of a coil off, I was temped to cut the other 1/4, but I am going to put some runs and time on it and then rethink it. And like you it finally feels and acts like a suspension should. Good Luck!
 

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Spring Issues TCI MII

I have been going through the exact same issues and was getting ready for the 3rd set of springs from Tim when I read this.

Started with 350 then 300 and now Tim sent me a set of the Heidts 275's which I was going to try today. You guys got me thinking about cutting them as I dont think there will be much difference from the 300's to the 275's.

My upper control arm ball joints are only about 1/4" from touching the spring so my A arms are no where near parallel; almost looks like a gasser! My springs as mentioned above bulge out almost rubbing the shocks on the inside. Had a buddy that is over 200 set on the core support and car does not budge with the 300's!

Is there anything else other than spring stiffness and weight that can cause this?:confused:

Aluminum headed small block and fiberglass hood.

Running 2" Drop Spindles
 

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Too Many coils in the spring making the spring too tall. Thats the only thing I can determine.
I'm using Heidits full lower "economy" A arms in my front end. When you look at the swing arc of the lower arm and the resulting pocket area for the spring when the arms are parallel to the crossmember, It is easy to see that the compressed area is much shorter than the "stock" height of the front springs. The more coils a spring has to compress to fit in this area, the more force it takes to compress and squeeze it in. By the time you get them in, the engine and vehicle weight doesn't provide the required force to compress them any further. The only solution is to start cutting on the coils. The less spring there is, the less force required to compress it. The spring rate is lowered enough to where the vehicle weight provides enough force along with inertia to move the springs like they should giving it a bounce. At least thats my throery.
Heidits mentions in their instructions for their weld in crossmember that the front springs be cut down 1/4 coil at a time untill the correct ride height is achieved ( lower arms parallel).
I too was somewhat aprehensive about cutting coils. But after I got them on for the first time, I knew this arrangement would not work. I took the plunge and cut em to fit. Don't be scared to do this if things are not working out like they should.
This is what mine looked like before I cut them. You can tell there is too much spring to fit in the "pocket". The springs were even touching the shocks! The suspension didn't move a whole lot after i put it on the ground. My dad and i even put our wieght on both sides and it still didn't move much more. After I cut one coil off each spring, They fit a whole lot better and they had bounce in them.
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Springs Cont.

The Heidts 275 Springs Tim sent me are 12" tall and both sets of TCI springs the 300s and 350s are 13.5" tall. I will be installing them today and hope they work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Let us know how you made out with the new springs! The #275's Hiedts sent me were 13 1/4 high out of the box compared to your 12" springs?, so you may want to try them first before cutting them. Good Luck
 

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Springs Cont.

Not cutting them.

Out of the box they are 12" on the money sitting on the ground and measuring to the highest point of spring. TCI springs are 13.5+ measuring the same way.
Did not get a chance to get them in yesterday continued on my wiring but hopefully today.
Since the spring is shorter and the spring rate is lower I am hopefull they will work.:)
 

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Springs Worked Great

The Heidts 275 springs worked perfectly! The springs are 1 1/2" shorter then the TCI springs. The lower A arms set parallel to the ground and I have travel in the front end that I did not have before.:D

I can see where the TCI 300's would have workded had they been cut but may have been a little to stiff.

Just to recap:
67 Nova HT
TCI Mustang II front clip
Heidts 275 12" springs
Aluminum Headed SBC
Aluminum Electric Water Pump
Fiberglass Hood
Fiberglass Bumper and Bumper Brackets
Steel Inner Fender Panels
Metal Fenders
Battery in trunk

Do they make steering stops for these setups?:confused:
 
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