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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys n gals, I have my first clutch swap that im about to start. After only 20,000+ miles the zoom performance clutch is slipping bad. A couple weeks ago I felt it slipping and new that I had hardly any clutch pedal play so after asking a few questions I adjusted for correct play and everything worked great. That was short lived and now shes slipping again when under load. I have thought about tearing into it to see if its just the discs or what but i would have to wait for the new stuff by mail, and since id rather just get a new set up and put it in right so I can expect a full service life im going to wait to order the new kit before getting my hands dirty. Im thinking the previous owner left the stock flywheel in the mix and Ive heard both good and bad responses about doing that. Should I have that flywheel resurfaced or turned? obviously assuming its in good condition to begin with. My main concern is which clutch kit to purchase? I'll probably purchase from summit and since the zoom clutch went out so fast, even tho it was probably the previous owners install process that's to blame for premature wear. Im thinking centerforce just because its so popular. I want a performance product, but also something that will hold up to daily driving with the occasional hard launches at the strip. I have a gen 1 small block, a bourg warner t10, I believe its the 10 spline shaft? I am pushing a lil over 400hp and tq numbers with future plans of adding a small shot in the mix. Is there anything else il need outside of the kit to complete the swap? Or anything im forgetting to think about? Could you help me decide on the right clutch kit please. I know there is multiple disc surface material choices and ive read each has its own benefits. I just really only want to do this once since im going to try to tackle this with little more than jackstands and common hand tools. I do have torque wrenches but I lack special measuring tools and alignment tools.
Thanks for your help again guys, I appreciate the help. Im the only dad in my family.
 

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You will need to get the flywheel resurfaced at at minimum.

I have a Macleod clutch in my car and it seems to work fine. Not very heavy and seems to hold well.

Do you have a scattershield? If not, you should really think very, very hard about that. A clutch explosion is an experience you do not want.

You will need an alignment tool, about $6, makes the installation of the clutch easier. Should also look at a dial indicator with a magnetic base to make sure that the bell housing or the scattershield is centered. I picked one up for about $20 or.

Look at the pilot bearing in the crank and make sure that is still good, look at all of your linkage to make sure that is still good. I would do that first before you do anything else. Make sure all of the brackets are tight and the spring is good. The fork and ball need to be good. Replace the throwout bearing. Cheap part and is going to be bad or will be soon.

Take your time, think though the steps and you should be fine.

Ray
 

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A little trick I use , esp if you are doing this with out a lift. Get some (going off memory) 1/2 bolts about 6 to 8 inches long , use them as a guide when putting the tranny back in (do not support the tranny by them )
Pilot bearing should be replaced , easiest way I have found to get them out (the stock ones) is use a 5/8 tap and thread it in , it will bottom out on the crank and push it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thank you guys, ya im gonna look for a whole kit to replace everything and im glad you mentioned the process of taking the pilot bearing out and bringing bolts to guide the tranny, steps like that are exactly what im looking for. Im quite certain i will be able to knock this out with good success. having this sight and the following of some great nova fans is what gives the guy like me the chance to do so. I appreciate the pointers guys. Im tossed up as to whether im going to go back with the zoom high performance set or there musclecar set, or a centerforce, ram, hays, dual disc or dual sided... Id like to get in and out with of the clutch kit with 300-350$ and then il figure whether im going to buy a new flywheel or get mine surfaced. I dont believe it has a scattershield but im rarely at the track or launching above 5000, lol . That might have to wait unless i find it extremely cheap. I just have to get my car back running. Im going through speed withdrawls. I found myself pulling the R1 out from the back of the garage and its really to cold and windy for that right now.:turn:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would really like to get the better solid u joints, and fix the tiny at the rear main seal, and due whatever needs done to the tranny too but since its holiday time thats not practical. In due time for sure. I have already put over 9000+ miles on her since i got her earlier this year! and until the clutch went south she was doing much better than when i got her and she rocked back then. As far as only being a project and nothing to brag about.
 

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I would replace the flywheel. A stock cast iron flywheel is a bomb waiting to come apart. Like was said, if you don't have a scattershield, it is a good idea to get one. I used the Lakewood 77-150 bellhousing in mine since it will not go to the track. I also used a Ram flywheel and the Powergrip clutch assembly. It is a little stiffer than stock, but not too bad. I think the T-10 is a 26 spline but could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Starter comes off too right?

After I remove the drive shaft, tranny, to get to the clutch am I going to have to remove the starter too? I will have to get the flywheel off so Im guessing it wont be able to stay.

The headers will have to come off as well just so the starter can back off. I was reminded of the pilot bushing? that is on the crank or something. The linkage looks good and comes apart quickly, ummm lets see, I removed the inspection plate to look up in the bellhousing( which might I add, I also found a hairline and I mean hairline crack right south of the starter starting at the edge of the bellhousing, is that a big deal? bout an inch and a half long.)

And looking in through the inspection plate (the cheap metal plate covering the part of bellhousing that isnt attached to the block), am I looking at the flywheel or is that like the pressure plate or something. cause it didnt look like a stock flywheel like i was told was in there. but it might not have even been a flywheel at all. It looked thick and billit?

I am ordering my clutch kit and parts on the first, I am just trying to get everything ready before I start. Thanks for your help again guys!
 

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Yes the starter needs to come out the bell housing too. Get some blocks to put under the oil pan . Take a pic of the flywheel and the bell housing ( where the crack is) could be a casting flaw but if not replace it like others have said a exploding clutch system is very dangerous
 
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