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Discussion Starter #21
Here's where I removed my pilot bushing... post #150 and on . The slide hammer removal tool did not work for me... You will need to get the install tool anyway, so use it like I did to remove the bushing. You can use gease as well, but bread cleans the hole and removes the bushing
Another hint: bronze bushing doesn't need much if any grease. I put to much in the shaft hole and it actually made it difficult to install the tranny: the air couldn't escape.

My T/O bearing flopped around a lot, but once installed was fine I bought the upgraded ( stronger) clutch fork from classic industries.

Good luck!

Thanks for the input. I will try the bread thing. Sounds like it should work fine. I'm working thru Tuesday so hopefully I can work on it Wednesday. I'll see about getting the tool. Not sure if i borrowed one from Pep Boys when I did it back in the early 80's. My bearing doesn't even ride on the junk very well. It has too much play compared to my non nova GM original when sitting on the pivot stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I went to Pep Boys that will loan tools out to do work on your car. They had a Pilot Bearing removal tool but it was too big for the bearing ID. So after much digging thru all my old machinist tools I had made over the years as a Air Line machinist I found a piece of round stock I had turned to .580 and the pilot bearing is .595. I will try the bread tomorrow and see if it works. Mine is completely flush, unlike yours that was partially out, so hoping it will still work and be easy. I'll let you all know. Still haven't done anything about the fork. Need to see my body man and see if he has a rivet that would fit if I use the old fork.
 

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Coincidently sold a gentleman a bellhousing and clutch fork this afternoon. He had just put the motor and trans in the car and noticed something was not right while installing the linkage. Clutch fork travel was off and the bearing would not engage. The complete trans had come out of a Chevelle. Basically same problem you had encountered. I shared this discussion with him.
 

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Hi There . . . . . I'll jump-in here : check out this web site , might help . . . .. 5Speeds Transmission Home Page
and, I will say that I bought my T 5 world class 'rebuild kit and some T 5 gears from Paul . Right parts & new Gears (the 1st time . . . good too deal with . . means alot too me).

Paul Cangialosi - been doing this for years , and , look at his site ; you loose nothing . (and, before you loose that 621 fork Ball go put it back in there) .

later, jim
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I finally got the Pilot Bearing out. Unfortunately I had to remove the clutch assy to get room to access the bearing. And also the bearing would not pass thru the splines of the clutch disc. So I guess I will be buying new bolts to hang the pressure plate. I used bread and the little tool I had found that fit perfect. The bread smashed down and was too thick to spread beyond the .010 space between the ID and OD. :) I started using a rubber mallet but it didn't seem to be doing much so I got my 21 ounce framers hammer and started smacking the end of the 6 inch long 3/8 extension I had connected to the socket holding the removal tool. It came out pretty easy as I just kept adding bread as the bread would fill the gap. I guess now I will be buying an install tool so as not to damage the bearing when I smack it in. I was looking at the new bearing vs the old one and there is a big chamfer on the side that goes into the crank on the old one but the new one is near flat. Plus the old had three punch marks and what looked like ink markings. It was also scored inside a bit. I am assuming this was the original bearing that was installed when the engine was built by the factory. The crank came out in 73 so it was all original when I started the work on it. I doubt anyone replaced it between 66 and 73. On another note...I had sent GM Classics a message about the fork being junk. He replied back and said they sold an average of 3 a week since 2002 and never had a complaint. Even though I had bought it in June he said to send it back and he would take a look at it. My question is...the TO bearing was 1.623 OD where it rides on the fork. Does anyone have a bearing they could measure and let me know what they get? My old one must have been tossed.

Thanks
Michael
 

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Look into an OEM forged steel clutch arm. Common in trucks. They are a bit longer and seem to have
398839
more leverage
 

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Ok guys can you help me out? My buddy installed a bushing a while back. He had used a Mcleod bushing. He said it was not Bronze oil sintered and wore out really bad. He said he checked it and it was magnetic. I checked my oem I just removed and it was not magnetic. The one I picked up from a parts store was super magnetic. Do you know a brand that is true oil sintered bronze and not magnetic? What do you all use? I have read now that magnetic ones are not recommended. I was looking online and most say they have iron and not bronze. Where do you find anything now days like the old days? Trying to get this done in one shot instead of taking apart a dozen times.

Thanks.
 
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