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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
This isn't a Nova question, more general. My daughter and grand-daughter went on vacation this week. Lucky me, dropped them off at the airport. Well, I have my daughters 2003 Honda Accord at my house. She had an accident 3 years ago and the hood was repainted. It looked like $h!+ compared to the rest of the car. So naturally good old dad is try'n to fix it while she's away. The car is black, the hood looked like CharBroil grill, Dull, cloudy and from some angles you could almost see the sand marks in the color coat. I started slow. Tried to the buff it out with white polishing compound. I got very shinny, cloudy results. I went out andf got the red heavy duty compound. It seems to be making a difference but I'm afraid by the time I get rid of the cloudiness there won't be any clear coat left.
Can clear coat fog like that, all the way through?
If I get it pretty good and there's litterly zero clear coat left will the base color go bad from exposure?
Can you use clear laquer in a rattle cans over the remaining base coat, which is probably urethane, wet sand with 800 and buff it out?
Non-body man......Good old Dad......
 

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Cloudy/foggy is usually a sign of clear coat failure. As such was the case of my repainted Acura before it all started peeling off like a bad sunburn. :mad:

Clear Coat Failure:
When a clear coat area appears to have an opaque ‘white or grey chalky’ or ‘cloudy’ look, this is the resin or paint binder system, which is indicative of clear coat failure, sometimes due to;

(a)Polishing the clear coat too often or using an aggressive abrasive polish / compound that has compromised the clear coat down to the colour (base) coat (sanding through) this can be checked with a paint thickness gauge. Clear coat that is too thin looses its ability to adhere effectively (delaminating) to the underlying paint layer and will flake off.

(b)Clear coat failure becomes noticeable when a section becomes opaque as it reflects less gloss than surrounding areas; this can be ascertained very clearly with an inspection light. More often than not this condition cannot be corrected by buffing or levelling the surface, it requires the refinishing of the paint system
 

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Cloudy/foggy is usually a sign of clear coat failure. As such was the case of my repainted Acura before it all started peeling off like a bad sunburn. :mad:

Clear Coat Failure:
When a clear coat area appears to have an opaque ‘white or grey chalky’ or ‘cloudy’ look, this is the resin or paint binder system, which is indicative of clear coat failure, sometimes due to;

(a)Polishing the clear coat too often or using an aggressive abrasive polish / compound that has compromised the clear coat down to the colour (base) coat (sanding through) this can be checked with a paint thickness gauge. Clear coat that is too thin looses its ability to adhere effectively (delaminating) to the underlying paint layer and will flake off.

(b)Clear coat failure becomes noticeable when a section becomes opaque as it reflects less gloss than surrounding areas; this can be ascertained very clearly with an inspection light. More often than not this condition cannot be corrected by buffing or levelling the surface, it requires the refinishing of the paint system
^^^^^ what he said,but allow me to translate:D:D:D:rolleyes:
strip the hood of the junk paint/clear coat and re-paint it with better paint:yes:.
leftcoast carl.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Frosty, Flakey

Thanks,
I didn't mention the frosty, flakey spots on the roof and the tops of the doors. I thought it would confuse the issue because the hood was replaced and painted several years ago. The hood is a bigger job if it needs to be stripped. I guess for now, I'll do the best I can with the compound and plan to repaint it when I can get the car again for a few days.
I sanded and repainted the spots on the factory finished ,failed ,areas with what the paint shop gave me. I had them cut the paint so it was ready to spray. They said they couldn't do that :no: with the clear coat because it needs activator. I haven't cleared those spots yet. My other question was about lacquer over urethane base coat. The spots were small, so can I use rattle can clear lacquer instead of the clear coat. :yes: I know a purist will :( on this, but is it possible.(Don't really want all them partial cans of chemicals around) Don't know if the paint shop will pre-mix the clear for me. I guess if they use slow activator I could go right home, shoot and clean before it sets up, but, that's probably risky.
 
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