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1973 Custom hatchback
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Reman SBC 350 with 5k miles
annoying metallic click, sounds a lot like a lifter, I think its coming from the pas side.
only happens when:

Engine is warm, coolant above 150, under part load and above 1600 RPM.
That equals about 40-60 MPH which is 90% of cruizin. Not sure if it actually goes away at WOT, higher RPM or if other engine noise drowns it out. I cannot duplicate the clicking unless car is under load.
I adjusted valves, changed oil added 1/2 qt ATF. it might be a bit quieter after 80 miles....

manual tranny so not flex plate. Looked felt everywhere, cant find any loose components

Prev owner put crate engine in. he stated that it "always made that noise" ... That indicates that its more likely external to the engine, something he did during install, so I'm thinking it may be exhaust leak, although I cant see signs of any. It could also be the fuel pump rod. I ordered parts to replace the header and collector gaskets. ordered a new fuel pump rod. Ill start with the fuel pump rod casue it simple and go on from there.

Anyone think of anything may have missed, other ideas?
 

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just a guess here if you think it's outside of the engine, would a crack in one of the v-belt pulleys be the cause.
 

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Click Click Noise

Hi Rupert,
here's 2 things to check---when you unbolt the fuel pump,take it completely off & look closely in the pump housing where the lever comes out. There is a small spring in there to keep tension on the lever. They are known to break & make the exact clicking noise you hear---they do sound like a lifter & it's on the passenger side !!
Where the guy said it always made that noise---that's my bet. Easy fix if that's it---new pump.have only seen 1 pump rod cause a problem & it was cam lobe wear that caused it but worth a look.
2nd thing to check---loose//worn valve guide or broken valve spring. If you run double springs look closely---check the rocker arms on any you find also. The guides will wear in the direction the rocker travels--not side to side. You can check them with 2 large screwdrivers even with the rockers on.
Post again & let me know what you find. :)
Hope my old hood looks good on your car !!
Roger:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hey Roger!
springs looked good. Its stock reman 350 engine, heads made in mexico.
I thought the noise was coming from the direction of #8 so I pulled the pushrods ( one at a time and kept up down the same) and rolled them on a big mirror. all good. I am thinking a valve guide could be jumping up and down, hope that's not it.
I think your saying to use a couple screw drivers to try and pry up on the valve guide, see if it moves?
the reman engine only has 5500 miles on it.
I do plan on taking the fuel pump all the way out...and checking the spring. I figured if that's it I can go to the auto parts store to get a new one, vice just ordering one now. part of the problem is the engine as originally on a 1981 truck......before reman. I imagine as long as the fuel line from the tank lines up and its for a stock 350 I should be good.

Thanks for checking in...hood may go on. I was waiting for paint / body work but that's pushed WAAAY to the right.
 

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hey Roger!
springs looked good. Its stock reman 350 engine, heads made in mexico.
I thought the noise was coming from the direction of #8 so I pulled the pushrods ( one at a time and kept up down the same) and rolled them on a big mirror. all good. I am thinking a valve guide could be jumping up and down, hope that's not it.
I think your saying to use a couple screw drivers to try and pry up on the valve guide, see if it moves?
the reman engine only has 5500 miles on it.
I do plan on taking the fuel pump all the way out...and checking the spring. I figured if that's it I can go to the auto parts store to get a new one, vice just ordering one now. part of the problem is the engine as originally on a 1981 truck......before reman. I imagine as long as the fuel line from the tank lines up and its for a stock 350 I should be good.

Thanks for checking in...hood may go on. I was waiting for paint / body work but that's pushed WAAAY to the right.
The 2 screwdrivers are to move the spring retainer in the direction of rocker arm travel---put one between the rocker stud & the other near the tip of the rocker. Now try to move them back & forth---don't force them---if you have a worn guide you will see it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
update

while waiting for parts to arrive from summit, I eliminated one other possible source of the noise, the starter bolt, that rides on the header.

I know PO swapped from an automatic to a manual, and the starter is large, for a automatic.
By chance the Bell housing he got from a pile at the junk yard came out of a truck......the starter boss is large, as is the tranny hole. Otherwise the starter would have had to have ben changed too and I wouldn't have had this issue, nor a bunch of others associated with this unique combination.

The headers...well I think they may be for a manual tranny, which would explain why they hit the starter bolt
So that's why one of the starter bolts rides on the P/S header.
using some modified wrenches and few pinch bars I was able to get the bolt out. I ground the edges off and reinstalled, now there is clearance.

The click clack is still there...I pretty much expected that to be the case but this was worth doing, both to eliminate the possibility and to stop the bolt from gouging a hole in the header.
The gouge mark is visible just below the bolt head.

bending the header to get the bolt out created a gap as well, I think that will go back to original shape with a few heat cycles.

Yes the headers are coming off for PPP soon.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Another possibility is a leaking header gasket. When they leak, it sounds just like the noise you are describing (especially under engine load).

I would recommend changing both header gaskets to a good quality pair. Probably best to change your collector gaskets too. Do not use the cheap, white, paper style gaskets, since they are prone to leaking.

After you change the header gaskets, run the engine thru a couple heat up - cool off cycles and re-tighten the header bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Another possibility is a leaking header gasket. When they leak, it sounds just like the noise you are describing (especially under engine load).

I would recommend changing both header gaskets to a good quality pair. Probably best to change your collector gaskets too. Do not use the cheap, white, paper style gaskets, since they are prone to leaking.

After you change the header gaskets, run the engine thru a couple heat up - cool off cycles and re-tighten the header bolts.
Hey RIF....thanks man, I sure am zeroing in on the noise, and your info helps. I ordered the header gaskets, and hardware, new collector gaskets and hardware, and fuel pump rod and gasket. They arrived the other day. Forgot to post that here. Its in my main post ( 73 hatchback fun...).

I will remove the fuel pump next and check the rod and spring, then test drive , then I need the lift for some other projects. Its probably not the problem but it is easiest to do and regardless if the noise goes away with the fuel pump work, the headers are coming off, to be prepped and painted, put back and dam I hope the noise is gone!

It would happen a lot faster if you drove down to Annapolis and helped!

LOL

Thanks man!
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Yes... I just realized we are practically neighbors!

You may already know this, but a trick I use to the install the fuel pump push rod is to coat the rod with some wheel bearing grease prior to reinstalling back into the engine block (your going to need to remove your fuel pump engine plate to do this, then reinstall plate after inserting grease coated push rod).

The grease helps keep the push rod in place while you install the fuel pump and insures that the fuel pump arm is resting on top of the push rod.
 

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Ive had a few exhaust leaks in my time and I find that coating the exhaust gaskets in copper spray helps them seal up. It can also be used on the bolts as a way to help prevent them from backing out. Good luck. Let us know when you figure out what the noise is.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ive had a few exhaust leaks in my time and I find that coating the exhaust gaskets in copper spray helps them seal up. It can also be used on the bolts as a way to help prevent them from backing out. Good luck. Let us know when you figure out what the noise is.
CG Mike, thanks, I actually have a tube of copper sealant left over from putting long tubes/ heads on my 08 Charger.

I may have time to do the fuel pump this weekend....The headers will take time as I'm going to clean them up and paint them before reinstall.

Q. what does CG represet in the CG mike, any chance it has anything to do with the flag in my Sig?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
well its not the fuel pump
replaced that this weekend. Man I was sure the loose and loud fuelpump actuator was it...but the noise came back, not as loud or as bad but its there
Details and pics here:
https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634449&page=16

Headers are next but the car may be going in body shop so I'm not sure if I have time to take them off clean prime and paint before I need to drive the car.
 

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1970 Nova SS 350 Brandon, MS
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Yes... I just realized we are practically neighbors!

You may already know this, but a trick I use to the install the fuel pump push rod is to coat the rod with some wheel bearing grease prior to reinstalling back into the engine block (your going to need to remove your fuel pump engine plate to do this, then reinstall plate after inserting grease coated push rod).

The grease helps keep the push rod in place while you install the fuel pump and insures that the fuel pump arm is resting on top of the push rod.
Another trick is to remove the upper bolt on the front of the block inline with the fuel pump rod, push the rod up against the cam, and stick a punch in the bolthole to hold the rod in place until you get the pump in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Much thanks to Rif Raf and CEW.
the Gob of grease worked well.
I will be looking for the bolt hole CEW pointed out, just for future reference.
 
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