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Just push steadily outwards, the glass wont break. The gasket flexes out.

To put back is trickier, but simpler than it sounds. It took me 5 minutes to install each quarter glass.

First off, the gasket should be perfectly clean. Its a chore.

The manual says you have install non-drying strip caulk (I bought 3M strip caulk) on the outer side of the lip, and if youre pesky, on the inside of the rubber gasket slit.

My car originally had a 1/4" high one-side adhesive foam strip on the outer surface of the body lip so I just put a fresh strip back on, plus a strip of 3M caulk around the foam strip in the corner of the body angle to add some barrier to humidity.

Then, with the glass, gaskets and molding FULLY ASSEMBLED out of the car, you keep the assembly together with one or two strips of tape if needed. Then take a piece of strong string (like a curtain pull or long shoe string) and wedge it in the gasket slit, starting in the middle of one side and leaving a handy end-piece out, all the way around and leave another end-piece out. The ends should be together now, tape them together to the inside of the glass.

Have an assistant outside carry and place the assembly squarely in front of the opening and press it on the body lip. One the inside, you are going to detach the taped string ends and start pulling both slowly into the car while assistant presses strongly on glass sides and corners. This mounts the gasket lip over the body lip. When the string is completely pulled out the window is completely in. Remove bits of tape left that you used to hold the assy together.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Windows are out! I sprayed the gaskets good with silicone. I pushed and Sue caught them. Took 5 minutes just like you guys said! :yes: Hopefully tonight or tomorrow night I'll ge the new ones out of a car about an hour from here.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'll post pictures later, but I got a pair of regular windows with 2 piece mouldings and I also got a set of swing-out windows from a hatchback.:yes: Only the vertical part of the moulding was there for the swing-outs. I was also able to take the inside ceiling side-window trim from the hatchback and sedan! Also I was able to get an air dam that is good on the passenger side 2/3 the way accross. Mine is good on the driver's side. So I'll make one good one out of them both.

It looks like I will need to put my existing windows into the gasket for the 2 piece moulding because the windows on them are not tinted and mine are. How hard is that?

Overall, I'm very please with what I was able to get! :)
 

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Good score on the parts. Changing the glass is easy, just work the rubber seal off. If it is stiff it can be softened with Mothers Back to Black conditioner. I used that on mine and it made the rubber pliable and look like new.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Okay thanks, sounds good--I'll get some.

Philip, what was the paint you used on your window trim again? I thought it looked really good.

Our camera battery charging. I'll post pictures of the stuff I got later maybe this evening.
 

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I used Martin Senour paint from NAPA. 7220 etch primer and 7242 Underhood black. Both in rattle cans. The black over the etch primer is very durable, does not chip easily or fade from the UV light and is easy to touch up if needed. Everything black on my car was painted with those 2 products including everything black under the hood.
 

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You would have to remove the moldings and gaskets anyway to paint the moldings well and clean the gasket. I suggest once you are at it use paint remover on the moldings for a fresh start.
 

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I bead blasted mine. The rough finish on the bare metal is great to aid in adhering the primer to the metal. The primer was wet sanded smooth, cleaned and then painted.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Okay thanks, sounds good--I'll get some.

Philip, what was the paint you used on your window trim again? I thought it looked really good.

Our camera battery charging. I'll post pictures of the stuff I got later maybe this evening.
Here are the windows with 2 piece mouldings I was able to get.The windows were not tinted so I will switch to my original windows which are tinted.

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Here is the air dam I got. (the top one) The bottom is my existing one . I'll try to join the passenger side of mine with the new one.

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I'll probably be listing some of the other stuff I got in the classifieds soon.
 

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The easiest way I found to clean the paint off of the rubber was to wipe it with lacquer thinner to soften the paint and scrape it gently with a razor blade held 90° to the rubber. The rubber is real thin along the edge and holding a piece of wood behind it made it much easier to work with it. The thinner had to be applied often to work well and just do a small section at a time. There were 3 different colors of paint on mine. When it was all gone the gaskets were washed in soap and water and then treated with Mother's Back to Black.
 

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Lacquer thinner works great on the painted rubber, but I heard that using heavy duty paint stripper/remover is less damaging as it operates faster. I ve done lots of painted rubber with remover with no damage, and one application is usually enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Kim the rubber gasket is different for the 2 piece and the chrome trim. The gasket is cut to accept the trim so if you find one with the standard trim take the gasket too. The trim needs to installed in the rubber before installing. The glass, rubber and trim are all assembled and installed back into the body as a unit. Both removal and installation are easy.

I converted mine to 2 piece and I have seen others that painted the full trim. IMO painting the full trim just did not look correct but did not look bad either. There is a 3rd type of trim, it is a painted 2 piece but has a rolled bead on the surface, this was only used on the 75 and 76 SS cars. I have only seen it in photos.

The trim can be removed easily from the door frames without damage. Use a 1" blade plastic putty knife, start at the back top edge of the door work the knife under the trim and slide it towards the front of the door. It lifts the edge without bending it and when about at the curve the whole piece will be able to be lifted off with out any damage or marks. The trim on the 77 was removed and the door frame painted.
Philip--What is the best way to get the plastic putty knife started under the trim at the top of the door? It seems the side trim must come off first because it holds the top piece down.

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PS--Hope you are making headway on the fuel pressure issues!
 

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Work the edge of the top piece up a little with a screwdriver. Then slide the putty knife under the trim along to top edge of the door frame. Tap with a hammer, I just removed one last week, not a quick process and I broke the plastic knife several times before it came off. On this piece the knife had to go all the way to the end and then the trim able to be worked off the door.

 

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If the piece with the tab is the side piece it will need to come off first, same procedure. On the Nova's I have done the top had the fold over tab.

Top trim on left

 

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Okay thanks. I understand better now. Picture really helps!
Pictures help me a lot. There were times I just did not know how to install, mount or modify what I was working on. I would snap several photos and sit in the house and study them. Usually in a short while an idea would come to mind. It was not always the final way it was done but got the project headed in a positive direction.
 
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