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looks great... not to bag but constructive criticism OK ? i can't tell gauge line up in the images.

just my thoughts... the gauge's bezel outer diameter is almost perfect with the diameter of the instrument cluster, but it's slightly offset. if the material removed from the cluster was even, the gauges are offset slightly towards the center and the outer area of the cluster will then not match up with the gauge.

slight material removal towards the outside of the cluster and it'd permit the gauges to be installed as if they were meant to be there and not just fit into the cluster... if that makes sense.

not baggin' on ya but speaking to bring it to your attention... like i said, i can't tell from your images what the cluster to gauge alignment is

this was taken prior to completion to show slight offset, mine now fit even in the holes.


{quote taken from cluster mods album} the guage bezels edge needs to match the ring on the stocker bezel. constant test fitting will ensure a proper matchup of these units. take your time and grind accordingly to center the gauge to match the edges.



don't get me wrong, what you're doin' is great :thumbsup:

you know of course that the two 5" gauges need to be installed AFTER cluster is installed so the upper cluster bolts can be installed... makes the conversion a bit more difficult for cluster removal but why pull the cluster if everything's done and correct ? :)


edit-

to me, most important gauge is temp gauge. never never want to overheat, eyes are always on tach, speedo & temp ;)

oil, fuel & volts are secondary ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I alway enjoy your input. You have a eye for detail. Until you reposted the link to your build I proably would have missed that detail about the gauges being offset. I did however read it again befor doing the cutting and sanding. I didnt use a stone just a sandpaper roll in drill press. Probably better for me that way I could tak a little at a time. Not sure exactly what you are talking about on the install. Its been so long since I have worked on it. Fuel guage might stay or might move not sure yet but at least it a easy rewire and same size holes. I might end up installing dummy(leds) by each gauge at a later time too.
 

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i tried the roll but the stone worked faster without loading up as often, so that's what i used... no biggie, both work ;)


the upper attaching holes are now covered up by the gauges.

check the first couple/few images in the write up and you'll see why the back, metal section was trimmed the way it was...


you need the top piece in the picture to hold the gauge panel assy into the dashboard and to secure gauges. to cut the top/cap off, i used my Makita 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel. scribe/draw a line 1/16" below the edge of flat surface and cut/leave the line... remove the top. try to cut it as close to the top as you can and cut it flat. dress/smooth edges. safety equipment should always be used, all tools respected.




the cluster housing has 4 factory tabs that you need to screw the assembly into the dashboard. but you need to trim the panel below the edge of two of them as shown. don't remove any of the tab. see the tabs that are facing the work bench for example of how the housing tabs look after trimming. always wear safety equipment and don't rush the job. the work that is being done is it, so be very careful... the top cap when gone is the only cut you get. the trimming should be kept as close to non existent as you can. once done smooth/dress edges and paint if desired.
 
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