Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'M GETTING READY TO PAINT ALL THE FRONT END PARTS ALONG WITH THE SUB FRAME. WAS JUST WONDERING WHAT YOU GUYS ARE USING. I NEED SOMETHING IN CANS FOR I DON'T HAVE A COMP SET-UP YET. I JUST RECIEVED A CATALOG FROM EASTWOOD. LOOKS LIKE THEY HAVE SOME GREAT STUFF. I USED RUST-OLEUM ON THE PULLYS THAT CAME OUT GOOD BUT NOT SURE HOW THEY WILL STAND UP.

THANKS FOR THE HELP!


Steve .:chev: :beer:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
521 Posts
I have started my resto by sandblasting and painting small brackets, headlight buckets, fender braces, etc. I am using POR-15 followed by POR chassis black. The finish is a nice satin black. I am spraying my parts, but I think there are guys on this site that have brushed it on with good results. I don't know how long it will last. Only time will tell.
Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
Chassis paint

I have started painting my front end parts including hood hinges, upper and lower control arms, spindles and I am going to also do the firewall, fender wells and anything else that is not bolted down. I first had all the parts hot tanked and now I am spraying from a can Rustoleum Hammered black on them. Very nice for sure. After they are done I will replace ball joints, and all bushings then reintall. I am also doing the same to the frame parts...

Larry at Papas Nova
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
I used eastwoods high glosse black on my firewall ( I like that look) It is not cheep (like me:D ) But it looked allmost as good as a paint gun. I would use it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
Chassis painting and striping

I had my hot tank work done by the guy that built my short block for me. His name is Bob Drummond and his shop is in Pleasent Hill, Oregon. Any good machine shop should do if for you. He even removed the old bushings and ball joints for me charged me $125 for every thing.

Larry at Papas Nova
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
papasnova said:
Hello John
Dont' forget I may call on you when I am ready to fire this baby up...

Larry at Papas Nova
Yes, Bob's a good guy!

Anytime you need help just give me a call. I'm at the 4-j shop 687-3168

John
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31,194 Posts
I used Krylon(semi flat) in spray can on motor mounts & other small pieces.The results were way better than what I expected and color is show correct for frame parts and under carriage.It dries in 10 min 1hour to handle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
446 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,333 Posts
I used Krylon BBQ & Stove paint in a spray can under the hood and on my rear springs and rear end. Cheap, available at Wal-Mart, and dries super quick. I don't know exactly how durable it is, only time will tell.
Leaves a semi-flat/semi-gloss coat of black. Also its good up to 1200 degrees, which is a must for Texas summers.

I might post pics of my car's rear end later.

-Aaron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,137 Posts
I haven't done mine but I'm looking at the eastwood stuff for the large parts and then I'm going to powder coat the small ones that can fit in my oven. I will say this from my experiences, Eastwood may be expensive, but I haven't found anybody who can beat the tech support, product quality, and fast delivery of products to my location. I'll pay more for better service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
paint

THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLYS, I THINK I WILL GO WITH THE EASTWOOD STUFF. I ALSO THINK IT'S A LITTLE MORE MONEY BUT I DON'T WANT TO RE-PAINT IT A YEAR FROM NOW.DOES ANYBODY ELSE HAVE PICTURES OF THIER ENGINE BAY AREA.I'M JUST TRYING TO GET AS MANY IDEAS FOR THE MOTOR ALSO.

Steve w:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
871 Posts
I used a paint call (sem) black you can get it at your local autobody store. It is about 18.00 a quart and sprays real nice you just need a big fluid tip in your gun like 1.8 it has a nice semi gloss look to it when it dries.

Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
70Deuce said:
I used the Eastwood Chassis paint and had pretty good results. However, I did run into one problem you might want to keep in mind; if you want to go back several days after you paint a part and give it a second coat, you must give it VERY, VERY,VERY LIGHT coats. Otherwise, it will lift. At least, that was my experience.
http://photobucket.com/albums/b55/70Deuce/Front subframe/?action=view&current=IMG_0053.jpg

Hey man your Paintwork and suspension parts look outstanding..... When you say Eastwoods chassis paint what exactly was it? I just bought some Extreme chassis black and was just curious if your results came from a can or from a gun.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,261 Posts
I agree, 70 Nova has some awesome work there. Hey 70, your giving me a lot of inspiration looking at those pics. I like how some of your colors are not all black. For instance, the spindles & gold bracket plates, rotor backing plates. Are they your choice or stock colors?

I have not painted my firewall yet but it used to be black. This time I'm going to paint it Cortez silver, same as the entire car.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,502 Posts
On some of the small parts for my 74 I'm using rattle cans and later I plan on buying paint to shoot from a gun but on some things I have also been shooting over the part with a semi gloss clear or a matte clear for added protection.
I'm also using different manufacturer's paint just to break it up a slight amount (black is not always black as I found out). My reasoning for different manufacturer's black is the parts originally did not get painted out of one big drum of paint but were sent to the factory from different suppliers and I really doubt they all had the exact same shade of black paint. Also some parts were dipped into the paint and then hung to dry. Some parts also had a high gloss, others a little duller and some even duller than that.
On mine some of the parts have pitted through the years and I have had to shoot primer on the parts, sand the primer down and then shoot color on it. I look at some of the real good restored cars and in some spots you can see the pits in the metal. I'm pretty sure GM didn't use pitted metal originally. Just like anything else, how far do you want to go with something and at what cost. I do like seeing cars in person to where it doesn't look like all one color and shade of paint on everything. To me I think it helps to bring out more detail.

Jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
446 Posts
Thanks for the compliments. I used the Eastwood Chassis Black for the frame; they have since improved the product to Extreme Chassis Black. I used their gold cad for the caliper brackets and silver cad for the dust shields. Everything was done with spray cans and I tried to duplicate the original finish on a budget. For the natural finish parts I used a product called boe-shield to keep them from rusting; if you have'nt tried this, it is a very good product but you could also use a satin clear.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top