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On my recently acquired '66 pro street car, we've adjusted both doors by moving the frame-mounted strikers and a small bit of shimming on one hinge (driver's side). When the car is on the ground, both doors close nicely. But if I have the car on my lift, the driver's door is way out of alignment, while the other door still closes fine.

What's going on? Could there be a frame problem, perhaps something loose or broken, that lets the left side of the car move?

I could just ignore it, but if there's a frame problem, I ought to find and fix it.

Thanx, guys!
 

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A poser Prostreet car probably just look’s the part..

What you are experiencing is not unusual. These cars 62-67 are pretty flimsy at best.. Put them on a lift, jack stands, stiffen up the suspension, or add some HP/torque, and you will find that weakness.. They need to have some meat added to the structure to handle the stresses being asked of the chassis..
 

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On a hard top you could put your hand out the window and rest it on the gap between the door and quarter panel. When you drive the car up a driveway at an angle you can feel the car twist under your hand.

Even a stock 62-67 can benefit from a decent set of frame connectors.
 

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My '66 has subframe connectors and a floor mounted cage and the doors still close differently depending on how it's jacked up. I think these cars ideally want aftermarket frame rails tied into a cage as well as firewall reinforcement to prevent flex.

Chris.
 

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With a cage, it will be dependent on how much the cage is tied into the body structure. The A-pillars are pretty weak and connecting them to the forward cage tubes that follow the A-pillar would be beneficial. Also, tie the front clip upper mounting points into the cage will improve the forward structural area. The more connections the better it will distribute loads into the chassis..
 

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I have subframe connectors in my 64 (pro street build) and an 8point roll bar in it and I can jack my car up right under the drives seat location / center of the door and I can lift the whole side of the car and have no issues opening or closing either door.
So at the very least get the two connected together front to back.
 

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My '65 post sedan (stiffer?) has been back halved,2X2 frame connectors and an 8 point cage with swing out door bars. Even though the door bars worked nicely and weren't that inconvenient,I had left them out for a full summer because I got lazy. Plenty of HP,aggressive clutch and fat,sticky tires. Both A pillars cracked top and bottom,the door gaps got wonky,door took extra effort to close and when I tried to reinstall the swing outs,the pin wouldn't drop in by just a smidge. Obviously my own fault for not paying attention until it was too late. I supported the car with a couple jack stands positioned sorta kitty corner. Through the winter I let it hang like a coffee table with a short leg to try and flex it back against the torque twist. Time and pressure,by spring the door bar pins would go back in but the door gaps and latch never really got better,A pillars are still cracked. Under hard acceleration,you can feel the pins on the swing outs get tight.
 

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On my recently acquired '66 pro street car, we've adjusted both doors by moving the frame-mounted strikers and a small bit of shimming on one hinge (driver's side). When the car is on the ground, both doors close nicely. But if I have the car on my lift, the driver's door is way out of alignment, while the other door still closes fine.

What's going on? Could there be a frame problem, perhaps something loose or broken, that lets the left side of the car move?

I could just ignore it, but if there's a frame problem, I ought to find and fix it.

Thanx, guys!
Normal on many olders. That said ,2005 GTO customer car I recently remotored, was incredibly stiff . Lifting a corner, lifted entire side. Ya, both doors worked without bind too.
 

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Only problem with a cage is it puts steel pipes right by your unprotected cabbage. No bid deal at the track with a helmet on but street driving with no lid creates a problem. They really should have the roll bar padding installed but it's not very attractive and I'm guilty of not putting any on mine for vanity sake.
 

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don't fall into the old thinking that stiffer is safer
stiffer frame and a cage are essential for racing
but for a highway accident you would need to know the nature of the accident to know what is safer
We all just need to accept that these old cars will never be near as safe on the highway as modern vehicles with engineered crumple zones

modern cars are safe because they are very stiff in many areas and extremely weak in key areas (crumple zones)
 

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The structural shortcomings of these early Chevy II’s has been one of my major concerns with these early models. I love the style and size of them but they really are not very sturdy.. The bolt-on suspension stuff that is available today can easily flex the body and buckle the quarter panels and that’s not damage caused by an accident. That’s just installing some new suspension which changes the point load distribution.. I’ve been working on this with my cars as they are under construction and want the suspension to behave predictably and chassis flex eliminated. I primarily want to do the majority of the structural fortification from the underside so that mean a full frame. Also, I want to “NOT” have to cut out the whole floor and firewall to accommodate the frame. A cage is not out of the question but I’d prefer to not have one if I choose but I know the roof structure is not really strong so maybe a high and tight fitting cage system will be part of the final solution..
 
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