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You know that black round thing in the front corner that everyone seems to think is not needed and toss it. Well if you park in an enclosed garage it will keep the gasoline fumes from causing a possible disaster. It takes no power to operate so why remove it.

Mine was looking really crusty so I thought it wouldn't hurt to try and clean it up a little.



After bead blasting, priming and painting the mounting bracket I tackled cleaning the canister. Using just soapy water left from washing the car all the dirt and crud were removed. Clean but now kind of dull looking. I didn't want to paint it and while looking around the shop for some kind of wax or polish I noticed a can of silicon spray. I tried a small spot and it looked good so the whole thing was sprayed and then wiped.

Now it looks good enough to install into the car.





The silicon also will work well to make the fan shroud look new. I tried a small spot and soon will clean and treat the whole thing.
 

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I had mine unhooked for a while, the gas fumes in the garage about killed me. When you would take the car out cold then into the heat for a while; come back park; the fumes were really bad. Pretty sure it's expanding out the gas cap and maybe other places. Hooked it back up and no more fumes, I notice no performance difference with it at all. To me it's kind of like a PCV system, keeps fresh air moving through the tank and a little negative pressure.

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121561
 

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ill try that can of silicone out. where did you get your bead blaster?
From Harbor Frieght. I only use glass beads in it. To be safe from breathing the dust open the large vent in back and hook the shop vac to the small opening in the side. Otherwise the air pressure in the cabinet will blow out the seals or fill the shop with dust if the vents are open. I have had it for almost 4 years and use it often. i also bought the 20 ton press from them which is very handy.
 

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HARBOR FREIGHT!!
I drool over the coupons that come once in a while in the mail at my work. Though I have never been in one.:(
 

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From Harbor Frieght. I only use glass beads in it. To be safe from breathing the dust open the large vent in back and hook the shop vac to the small opening in the side. Otherwise the air pressure in the cabinet will blow out the seals or fill the shop with dust if the vents are open. I have had it for almost 4 years and use it often. i also bought the 20 ton press from them which is very handy.
They have saved me a lot of money. Ill probably get one. I have the chicago electric die grinder and angle grinder from HF. Not to mention magnetic base and dial indicator. I was super happy when I found a walk in store like 10 miles from my house. So do you go through a lot of medium or is it reusable?
 

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I get a lot of use from the glass beads. With all I have done to my car I have only used about 35 lbs of beads. When they are fresh I try to do the aluminum parts. Rusty dirty steel parts leave large particles in the media. I have a small window screen I filter the beads through to remove the stuff that will clog the gun. When the dust starts to get excessive it is usually a sign it is time to add some fresh media.

I did get a new Shop Vac this week, the old one finally quit after 18 years. The new one is much quieter and pulls the dust from the cabinet much better.

Large items I do outside with a siphon blaster and meduim grit Black Beauty (coal slag). It leaves a rougher finish on the metal that primer or POR 15 adhere to real well.
 

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Your charcoal Canister is different from mine. Mine has two saucers on top and more vacuum lines.

Anyways, when you connect the canister back on, will you only have one line connected to the gas tank, or will you also have the other vacuum lines connected to manifold vacuum.
 

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The gas tank line will tee with the carb vent, another line goes to the PCV vacuum and a small line goes to the carb from the "disc" to open the valve at the proper time to purge the tank.

Yours may be a CA model car. They had different emission controls to keep the land of "fruits and nuts" clean.
 

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If it was it will state that on the emissions sticker on the plate over the radiator. If it says federal emissions it is not a CA car. I believe this 76 parts car is from CA and it does not have an AIR pump.
 

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I chucked that crap!!:devil:

i think it still might be sitting in my auto shop though...hmm
 

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I recently "temperarly" disconnected the Charcoal canister from the PCV T-splitter and I smell the gas now..............anyway, can I use that silicone spray on the firewall and inner fenders?
 

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It works best on plastic as it will absorb in and protect. To make your inner fenders and firewall look better, clean them good, scuff with a scotch brite pad and paint with either Duplicolor or NAPA brand under hood black paint. they are both very good and match the factory color. I hope to get mine sand blasted and painted this week end if it is not raining.

This core support was painted with the NAPA brand under hood black.

 

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It works best on plastic as it will absorb in and protect. To make your inner fenders and firewall look better, clean them good, scuff with a scotch brite pad and paint with either Duplicolor or NAPA brand under hood black paint. they are both very good and match the factory color. I hope to get mine sand blasted and painted this week end if it is not raining.

This core support was painted with the NAPA brand under hood black.

Is that dull aluminum or cast iron grey that you painted your hood release latch with?
 

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Cast Iron, I used it on the upper and lower control arms, the clutch cross shaft, the transmission cross member and some other parts. It breaks up all the black painted parts.
 
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