Chevy Nova Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys, thanks for all the responses to the thread I posted last week. really shed a lot of light on stuff.

well I am going to be wiring up the system tomorrow so I spent today removing the old wires and I have some questions.

here is what I have bought

gm 12si 94 amp alternator
2 5/16 junction studs(1 in case I find a use for another one)
22 feet of 8 gauge wire
all the terminals I need
ford starter solenoid

so, per the MAD electrical instructions, I plan to mount the stud on the firewall,

run the alternator battery out to the stud
run a a wire from the stud to the battery,
and reconnect the red power wire in the firewall bulkhead from the old bus to the junction stud.

how is it looking so far?

here are my questions

1. there is a brown wire going from the old external regulator to the firewall bulkhead connector.(this is different from the red wire that went from the horn relay bus to the firewall bulkhead)
a. what is this connector and
b. where do I connect it to in the new system

2, how do I connect remote voltage sensing in the new system, since Im bypassing the external regulator completely, just run a wire from the alternator to the new junction stud?

3. the sense connector on the alternator, where does that plug to?
4. how do I send power to the horn relay ( I want to keep it in the system to power headlight relays). do I just run a wire from the new junction stud to the horn relay buss bar?

thanks for help and assistance and suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I actually figured all the stuff out. it was too easy. now my charging system will be off the hook with 8 gauge wire going everywhere and three points under the hood to add relays and what not.

the only question left unanswered for me is this?

how does one wire a fusible link? say a 12 ga link - does that just go on the end of the 8 ga wire between the wire and the junction block?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,365 Posts
You want to put the fuseable link near the power source. If the source of power is the altenator, but it near the altenator. If it is the battery then put it at the junction block.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Per the MAD site, sounds like you're going to the "New" system. See the fusible links below. Never install fusible links in your interior :eek:.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Per the MAD site, sounds like you're going to the "New" system. See the fusible links below. Never install fusible links in your interior :eek:.

yes, pretty much everything in the "new system" except Im running 8 ga to the battery instead of his recommended 10ga.

so I just attach a short 12 ga fusible link to the end of my 8 ga wire before the battery? doesnt that reduce the performance of the whole line to the battery? or does it not work like this in electricity?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,614 Posts
bump for fusible link use
A short length of fusible link shouldn't cause any major voltage drop or amp capacity issues.

You want it to be near the capacity of that fusible link so that when/if the system starts pulling vastly more current than it should, that thing will melt/pop and protect stuff downstream.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Per the MAD electrical wiring tech book on fusible links...

"...WIRE LENGTHS AND GAUGE SIZES
- are not rated by amps
- make them about 6" long
- always make the fusible link wire size 4 numbers in gauge size smaller than the wiring circuit it will protect

18ga fusible link for 14ga system
16ga for 12ga system
14ga for 10ga
12ga for 8ga

This 4 number rule will create the correct calibrated "weak spot" in the circuit...."

courtesy of MAD Enterprises 559-539-7128
http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A short length of fusible link shouldn't cause any major voltage drop or amp capacity issues.

You want it to be near the capacity of that fusible link so that when/if the system starts pulling vastly more current than it should, that thing will melt/pop and protect stuff downstream.
thanks. I thought it created a bottleneck but I guess thats not the case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you running a master cutoff switch in the back? (That is...do you need it to pass tech?)
not yet, but I ultimately will

Per the MAD electrical wiring tech book on fusible links...

"...WIRE LENGTHS AND GAUGE SIZES
- are not rated by amps
- make them about 6" long
- always make the fusible link wire size 4 numbers in gauge size smaller than the wiring circuit it will protect

18ga fusible link for 14ga system
16ga for 12ga system
14ga for 10ga
12ga for 8ga

This 4 number rule will create the correct calibrated "weak spot" in the circuit...."

courtesy of MAD Enterprises 559-539-7128
http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml
thanks for the info
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top