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Discussion Starter #1
My car broke down because the timing chain went.
What is the chance I have bent valves, or bent push arms ?
 

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stock heads, stock compression ??? prolly just the chain and gears... make sure ya pull the pan and clean out debris... check oil pump too just in case pieces got by screen. pull valve covers and inspect.


best of luck to ya :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
JohnnyRotten said:
stock heads, stock compression ??? prolly just the chain and gears... make sure ya pull the pan and clean out debris... check oil pump too just in case pieces got by screen. pull valve covers and inspect.


best of luck to ya :D
I pulled the pan and there was tons of the plastic in there. I am putting a new chrome one on. I guess I'll pull a valve cover. Getting the gasket off the engine from the old oil pan is not very fun :(. lol
 

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plastic gear ??? definitely pull pan and check oil pump.


in fact, why not freshen it up a tad, now IS the right time ya know... new chain & gears, new oil pump... be lookin' towards the future ya know ;)


have fun gettin' all greasy ;)
 

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Make sure you scuff up the mating surface of the chrome pan with some sandpaper (800-1000 should work fine) otherwise you may be taking it back off when it starts leaking on you. It may not leak right away, but chrome tends to not seal very well, even if you use a thin layer of silicone to help seal it.

New pumps are fairly cheap, I think I paid $15 for mine at Advance Auto, but should be able to get at any local auto store. You'll probably need a new rod too and they usually don't come with them, another $5 I believe. Just check the package when you get it, sometimes they have the rod and sleeve depending on brand and where you get it.
 

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As far as installing it, it's held in by 2 bolts, which I believe get torqued to 40-45lbs. If the pan is already off, it's right there at the back side, so the crossmember won't be in the way. The plastic sleeve that holds the rod on is supposed to snap tight, but it's recommended to use a lighter and heat it just enough to make it soft on the ends and press it tight with fingers. That'll help ensure it don't come loose on you.

You'll probably also have to take a long screwdriver to realign the slot in the rod for your distributor to properly line up when you put it back in.
 

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The chain jumped on my 77 a few years back and the week before I could feel it surging going down the highway and thought it was a carb or timing issue (which it was a timing issue as the cam was in and out of time with the crank) and one day getting off the highway the chain jumped. I decided to pull the heads anyway while doing the chain and gear replacement and luckily I did as there were 12 valve marks from where they hit on the piston tops. I had the heads redone and only had 8 bent valves which had to be replaced.
Chances are they hit if the RPM's were up at the time but might not have. The only way to know is to further troubleshoot it or take more of the motor apart.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think I am going to just put it back together with new oil pan and timing gear + chain and see if it will go. If it runs crappy then I guess I'll know what it is :(. Would it be cheaper to buy a new motor or have heads redone and get new valves, etc.?
 

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it's cheaper ta pull the valve covers and LOOK ;)

an oil pump is prolly around 20 bucks... cheap insurance if ya ask me (oh sorry, ya didn't ask ;) )


doin' it right the first time will certainly save ya bucks if ya have ta do it twice...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I pulled the right valve cover and the first cylinder push rod is bent. Does this automatically mean that the valves are bent? What should I do?
 

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In my opinion if you have bent pushrods you probably have about a 99 percent chance you have bent valves also. I know this is not what you want to hear but is probably what has happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So now I have to pull the heads and put new valves in? Do I have to do anything to my heads or are they fine?
 

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ummm..the absolute first thing you need to do is get a book on rebuilding smallblocks, there is a bunch out there, vizard is good...go to the performance related section on www.chevytalk.com and there is a good list of good books....i am not putting you down but it seems like you're jumping in WAY over your head...the heads MUST come off...there is NO easy fix to this problem and you need to learn whats going on here to make sure it won't happen in the future:D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I know. I went out to a local auto store and ordered new heads with valves and springs. They should be in the 23rd. Me and my dad are working on the car hes knows a lot more then I do but I'm the one posting. I mostly just try to read the forums to learn :( . lol
 

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That sucks! :eek: :eek:

While you're at it, you may be best to pull the motor and overhaul it so you have a complete fresh engine rather than just having new heads on a used, worn out engine.

http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=65

The link above is for a 350 Master Kit which includes everything below for $167. You can get a basic kit for less, or for $500 you can get a balanced kit with piston rods, crankshaft and performance rings, pistons and bolts.

-Piston Rings
-Rod Bearings
-Full Gasket Set
-Main Bearings
-Oil Pump
-3-Pc. Timing Set
-Cam Bearings
-Lifters
-New Stock Camshaft
-Freeze Plug Kit
-F/T (4 VR) Cast Pistons

Buy a rering kit from local auto store and will cost almost as much only won't include the timing set, cam & bearings, oil pump, lifters & pistons.

And if you're not sure about rebuilding it yourself, get the kit above and take it to a local shop. It'll still cost you less than buying a crate motor and be done right professionally so you don't lose the parts warranty by doing yourself. Also make sure shop will warranty it, if they won't I would find someone else because they're just inadvertently telling you they don't guarantee their work.
 
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