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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best way to break down the center link to install motor>?

  • Pull centerlink from pitman arm and disconnect the driver's inner tie rod and move down?
  • Disconnect centerlink from idler arm and disconnect the passenger's inner tie rod and move down?
Should I have the car in the air when installing the motor?

Getting close guys...:D

Thank in advance!
Dave:)
 

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You're assuming we know what you're trying to do here. Is this a L6? V8? Stock pan? Rear sump pan? Breadbox pan?
 

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On mine I just disconnected the idler arm from the frame and pushed it far enough forward to clear the notch when the engine was installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mike Goble said:
On mine I just disconnected the idler arm from the frame and pushed it far enough forward to clear the notch when the engine was installed.
Sweet! I'll do that. I didn't have my centerlink all the way on the pitman arm thinking I need to break it down there but I'll go ahead an install the centerlink in place and tighten/cotterpin the driver inner tie rod.

Did you not have to disconnect the inner tie rods?

I'll have the car on jackstands anyway.:)

Thanks alot Mike!
 

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Mike Goble said:
On mine I just disconnected the idler arm from the frame and pushed it far enough forward to clear the notch when the engine was installed.
I did the same with mine. :)

I did disconnect the inner tie rod on the pass side and the idler end of the center link, then just swung the whole centerlink off to the side. You'll have to do the same thing if you ever need to pull the oil pan after the motor is installed.
 

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Thanks for the info. I didn't think about disconnecting anything when I put my engine in. That is one nice engine compartment you have there. And the floor looks verrrrry nice too. Dave
 

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Funky:
Just a thought on ground clearance with that pan. I'm running a
Milodon rear sump that measures 9 1/2" from pan rail to bottom
of pan. (same as yours?) I have 5 3/4" ground clearance, but
that's after raising front, and rear appr. 2" over stock. I believe
you are using lowering springs? You might want to calculate your
ground clearance with that pan to see what kind of clearance
your going to have.
I have no problems now, had to be carefull before I raised it, and
mine wasn't lowered. Those front sump pan's are a good option.
Just something to think about, a lot easier now than later.
Good luck, Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #10
66RICH said:
Funky:
Just a thought on ground clearance with that pan. I'm running a
Milodon rear sump that measures 9 1/2" from pan rail to bottom
of pan. (same as yours?) I have 5 3/4" ground clearance, but
that's after raising front, and rear appr. 2" over stock. I believe
you are using lowering springs? You might want to calculate your
ground clearance with that pan to see what kind of clearance
your going to have.
I have no problems now, had to be carefull before I raised it, and
mine wasn't lowered. Those front sump pan's are a good option.
Just something to think about, a lot easier now than later.
Good luck, Rich
Should have listened Rich. I'm now dealing with a leaking pan do to it being to low and taking a beaten.:eek: :D
 

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FunkyNova66 said:
Should have listened Rich. I'm now dealing with a leaking pan do to it being to low and taking a beaten.:eek: :D
That sucks! I did the same thing with my 406 the first time out. I bet that a whole bunch of Chevy II owners have done this:D
 

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Lower than I like

I have the deep sump pan on my 350/stock ride height and I have to be very careful where I drive. My clearance is at 3 inches.

Quick story... Came upon some unexpected road construction with resurfacing and exposed, elevated man hole covers. While driving 20 mph saw the first one come out from the car in front of me and all I could do was brace for impact. Musta missed it by 1/2" max. I turned off at that time. Actually scared the dirt outta me.


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Discussion Starter #14
mrtimstik said:
I have the deep sump pan on my 350/stock ride height and I have to be very careful where I drive. My clearance is at 3 inches.

Quick story... Came upon some unexpected road construction with resurfacing and exposed, elevated man hole covers. While driving 20 mph saw the first one come out from the car in front of me and all I could do was brace for impact. Musta missed it by 1/2" max. I turned off at that time. Actually scared the dirt outta me.
I have nightmares of elevated manhole covers!!
My ride height is 2" lower than stock so I think my pan is a little lower than yours.
 

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Yes they were stock height. Dont have the car anymore but found these pics.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i307/66nogo2/NovaSS1.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i307/66nogo2/IMG_0309.jpg
I just remembered I did not ever hit the oil pan again. When I first built the car I had a turbo 350 and later switched to a glide for drag racing. The glide's pan actually hung lower than the oil pan especially after I wrapped it with a explosion proof blanket. The speed bumps in the park were hard on the blanket!
 

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FunkyNova66 said:
Nice...that was a clean ride. Do you now have a 66?
Thanks! When I sold it I swore I would never do another one, but when I had all the cash in my hand I remembered this 66 up the street. Drove it home and told my wife that it needed nothing:rolleyes: . That was 2002 and Iam still restoring it! I have gone down the long road of restoring every part.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
66nogo2 said:
Thanks! When I sold it I swore I would never do another one, but when I had all the cash in my hand I remembered this 66 up the street. Drove it home and told my wife that it needed nothing:rolleyes: . That was 2002 and Iam still restoring it! I have gone down the long road of restoring every part.
Nice! Do you have an album with pics?:D The first link above didn't work.
 
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