Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I really like the CBR rack and pinion set-up with the lower control arm upgrade.Great handling. My question is that the sway bar moves all the way to the passenger side of the suspension. There is no built in stops on the bar. It basically stops on the curve of the sway bar on the forward attach point. I made sure both links to the bar are even in length. ( As short as they can go ) I'll center the sway bar, go for a ride and it goes right back to the passenger side. I'm sure this is not a good thing. Any ideas how to fix?? Thanks!!!!
Richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Do you have the plastic bushings where it mounts to the frame they are whitest in color u shaped before the bracket goes on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
You need a couple of split collar shaft collar clamps, each one placed just inboard of the frame munt bushings. I'll throw out a quick Ebay example, but any industrial supply house or hydraulic supply house carries these as they are typical on hydraulic motor driveshafts and jackshaft assemblies. I also don't know what diameter bar you have.
 

·
Registered
63 SS convertible 67 SS 4 spd
Joined
·
779 Posts
I'm not sure that collar clamps are the answer. I have CBR lower control arms and sway bar and mine doesn't move from side to side. Seems to me if those were needed they would be included in the kit from CBR? After just looking at mine there is no place on either of side of the frame mount where you could put the collars where it would make complete contact. Frame mounts are at an angle to the sway bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I bought the full R & P w/ lower control arm upgrade in Dec 2016. It came with a new 1 1/8" dia. sway. This was to create more clearance for bigger tires up front. The pic on the CBR website shows an old configuration w/ a ring stop on the sway bar just outboard of each mount. There is no room for this ring stop on the bigger sway bar. The collar clamps are a great idea except for the clearance. I did E-mail CBR with a full description of the issue with no response. I have spoken to them a couple of times early on during the install and they were very friendly and helpful. I will call Monday. June 1st for an answer. I'll post their response. I have had good experiences with this website and all the great people and was looking for an “out of the box” answer/fix. Picture shows the bigger S/B and the link. The S/B link started at the 1 o' clock position. It will end up at 11 o' clock. when the other side stops in the bend of S/B. Anyone else have this issue?? Thanks everyone.
100_0834.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
I bought the full R & P w/ lower control arm upgrade in Dec 2016. It came with a new 1 1/8" dia. sway. This was to create more clearance for bigger tires up front. The pic on the CBR website shows an old configuration w/ a ring stop on the sway bar just outboard of each mount. There is no room for this ring stop on the bigger sway bar. The collar clamps are a great idea except for the clearance. I did E-mail CBR with a full description of the issue with no response. I have spoken to them a couple of times early on during the install and they were very friendly and helpful. I will call Monday. June 1st for an answer. I'll post their response. I have had good experiences with this website and all the great people and was looking for an “out of the box” answer/fix. Picture shows the bigger S/B and the link. The S/B link started at the 1 o' clock position. It will end up at 11 o' clock. when the other side stops in the bend of S/B. Anyone else have this issue?? Thanks everyone. View attachment 405272
Take a piece of 5/16", 3/8" or 1/2" thick by 1" to 1-1/4 wide steel or aluminum strap and make 2 spacers to go under the pillowblock and bushing at the frame mount. Then you'll have room to put a collar around the bar.
1/4" might even be thick enough, if space is a premium.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
410 Posts
That is a stout looking bar. Are they relying on pre-load to keep the links clocked upright? More pre-load would force the link rods to stand-up/self correct? I don't see how that configuration wouldn't move when cycled under use although the push side will try to bind and the pull side will try to be straight but...they would have to be equal forces to cancel themselves out which, theoretically, they should be. If one of the bushings were binding, that could be a problem too. More pre-load and grease? Heavier front springs? Do/did they have a recommended spring for this set-up? Disclaimer: Zero real-world experience tweaking front sway-bars. Just kicking out thoughts and ideas for consideration.

Eric's suggestion of the spacers and collars sounds best for keeping current ride quality, if you have the room.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Eric, That is a great idea. Did not even think to add a spacer under the frame mount. That I can do. Kimmer, funny thing is the sway bar is not pre-loaded. I can take both links off and reinstall with very little problem. I have racked my brain with this. I appreciate your input.and your theory, in my opinion, is correct. Another thing when S/B is equal on both sides the links are not straight up & down. Looking at the front of the car, The pass side is at 1 o"clock and the drivers is at 11 o clock. That's why it's strange that the bar moves. Anyway, I like Eric's idea. I'll do that within the next couple of weeks and get back to you guys with pics. THANKS for all the great input. Richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,831 Posts
Another member here has had some sway bar fitment issues as well. The links were angled and wouldn’t sit evenly.. His car is not operable yet as he been waiting for the rack and pinion unit for several months.. but that’s another issue..
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top