Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i'm installing the 1998-2002 F body 12" discs on my '64. the CBR LS adapter plates will be utilized on the fronts, for now i'm working on the rear.

the thread on the conversion is multiple pages and quite spread out. i've taken some pictures and edited in paint. hoping to have the complete information in one easy to use album...

here is what i have for now (i'll update as i progress)

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y2...rmation/1998-2002 Camaro LS brake conversion/

here are a few example images...









OK... i've decided to make my own spacer plates. i don't think $40-$50 for plates is doable... so instead of washers which i think sounded rather Mickey-Mouse i scrounged up some 3/16" steel...

and of course instead of it being straightforward i'm forced with a detour... the hole needs to be 2-3/4" diameter... the hole saw i had is only a 2-1/2" so that's 1/8" per side to make the hole the correct diameter...

my 3/16" plates with the 2-1/2" holes, left large on the outer dimensions for now...



as you can see in this image there is a step on the tube at the flange.
tube diameter is 2-1/2", step included... 2-3/4" :doh:



SOOOO... da plate don't wanna fit! :(



so let's open it up a little... more info on this to follow...

now it fits on the tube, but not over the step...




here are the tools i'm using to open the hole.
initial 2-1/2" hole was done on a drill press, this work is being done by hand...

a die grinder with a carbide and another with a sandpaper roll to smooth out. sandpaper roll isn't required. the carbide, yes.
an old paint can top shoved in the hole and a Sharpie to trace around and now you have an approximate line to work towards...



if you look closely you'll see i'm putting an angular cut on the spacer. this isn't very wide. i'm cutting down on the size/thickness of my work area. once angle is all around i then turn metal around and do the same thing. put an angle on it. once that's done i remove the mountain and make the hole flat inside again... just helps the job go faster...



NO this isn't a precision job, thought this would show the hole differences better than a tape measure. the hole needs to be opened by 1/8"



after working the carbide evenly & equally, as best as one can... this is by hand so perfection isn't a word to be used... it fits over the tube & step...



this is what you want... it HAS to fit flat against the flange with NO hangups...



here i've laid one on top of the other so you can see differences...



here i've quickly traced the flange onto my spacer. not too concerned about hole locations as i'll cut the plate to size and use an old backing plate for lining up the hole locations. (they are not symmetrical holes)




so far i have done what's shown... 2 plates with center holes and one plate opened to size and i have about 1-1/2 hours invested and zero money. i'll estimate i'll have another hour into these completing them... so, what's my dollar per hour worth? as much or more than the guy selling the spacers, am i saving money making my own? heck i don't know i just know i'm hardheaded and i couldn't see spending the cash on 'em...


OK, one more thing i thought i'd try and do... i made a short video for those unfamiliar with using a die grinder & carbide...

hold the grinder fairly secure. no gorilla gripping is necessary, just hold onto it. use your other hand to guide/steady yourself. depending on the quality of your die grinder you may or may not be able to regulate the RPM's. carbides like a lower RPM, no need for a trillion RPM's per minute... slow it down and let the tool do its job. as you see in the video i stick my thumb under the trigger to try and regulate the RPM's i have el-cheapo Harbor Freight die grinders... but they work ;)

anyways. work the material Against the rotation of the tool. don't let the tool chatter, this can and possibly will break or chip the carbide. if chipped or broken the carbide is now junk so watch what you're doing. work in about 3/4 to 1" of area, work back and forth and try to minimize gouging it resulting in mountain & valleys... keep it smooth and keep it moving.

it's really not that hard to make your own plates...

the video...

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y2...brake conversion/?action=view&current=017.mp4

finished up both spacer plates, picked up longer bolts to attach LS backing plates to the differential...

installing the backing plate & axle... with new gear oil going in, i lobbed a good fingerfull of white grease on the bearing and seal for a prelube, also a drop of blue loctite on the backing plate nuts to ensure they never come loose. used new lock washers etc too...
(i promised a few "personalized images :rolleyes:)


after picking up new caliper hardware kits i'll install the calipers...


and one for Chuck, he's keepin' me warm on this chilly day ;)


even though lock washers are used, prepare for the worst, hope for the best... a little blue loctite on the backing plate fasteners is good insurance they won't come loose...


once differential is installed i'll start on the e brake cable mods. there have been posts on how others have done it, i have my own ideas to try first...

to be continued...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
unsure. once diff is completed i'll install it and check wheel backspace with my Percy's tool. hoping to be able to use an off the shelf (inexpensive) wheel.

planning on running 205 tires front and rear...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Bill. with everything mocked up and actually measured (on mine) the spacers needed are 5/32" thick... if the dimensions on your diff are consistent with mine then that's the amount your axle to bearing measurement will be for the shorter axles...

... that will still save your wheels, yes?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,365 Posts
Bill. with everything mocked up and actually measured (on mine) the spacers needed are 5/32" thick... if the dimensions on your diff are consistent with mine then that's the amount your axle to bearing measurement will be for the shorter axles...

... that will still save your wheels, yes?
Should be o.k. but we know how that usually works out:rolleyes:

We'll see when I get all my parts and do a mock up. The plan is to do it this winter:yes

Have you measured the thickness of the hat section of the rotor yet to compare against the thickness of a drum?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Brian, if i recall correctly those are 3/16" (.1875) thick, right? i know it's not a big difference (.0312) and the caliper slides but actually measuring mine it equates to 5/32" (.1563) i'm going to get the material from my metal supply guy and see about making my own. either as separate straps, L's or a plate with a center hole. talked to Ron 62civa about him possibly making the hole in them...

anyways, unsure what design/configuration of spacer i'll use but i thought i could do it cheaper than $45.00 (the ebay link) and if i were to make them i'd make them to the specific measurement on my differential...


thoughts on the 5/32 vs 3/16?

Thanks. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,004 Posts
5/32 to 3/16...no big deal! The caliper will slide and center itself over the rotor. The outboard pad will be sitting .031 closer to the edge of the abutmet bracket, but I'm guessing you'll never wear the pads down far enough to be in any danger of the pad slipping off the edge, not that they would anyway (??). My .02 :)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
(thinking in text)

i agree, shouldn't be an issue... but if i space them, having measured, why not space as measured? another thought, i'm unsure if i can buy 5/32" material. 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" etc yeah, but i dunno 'bout '5/32. sooo... i use an 1/8" (.125) washer with a shim washer (.031) and i'm within tenths of thousandths of desired spacing...

why would the spacer (on this application) need to be a flat piece of material and not a washer? the backing plates are approximately 5/16" thick, or thicker. the flange on the diff is approx 1/8" thick... i'd think a washer type spacer would work/function the same... yes? no?

clamping forces distributed across flange area vs clamping forces around washer's surface area... will it make a difference on this?

i don't think it would... i'm considering doing just that... using washers. i have measuring tools to ensure all thicknesses are uniform...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,004 Posts
I've thought the same thing (not sayin' anyone thinks QUITE like you heh heh...) but I don't see why a washer wouldn't work. All the brake force is transmitted to the bolt...it's trying to shear them. The shear force on the bolts are the same whether its a flat plate spacer or washers. With grade 8 hardware and it's not gonna go nowhere! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,515 Posts
The S10 Warehouse on Ebay sells a 1/4 inch spacer for $30.00 and $7.00 shipping. One piece, easy to assemble especially with the axle on the car, and a little cheaper. Sorry I don't know how to post a link. My local True Value hardware store sells 1/4 inch thick spacers with 5/16 or 3/8 holes cheap chrome ones too.I think they call them "machine bushings" sometimes having the right name for a part is most of the battle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,699 Posts
Nice work with the details right in every pic. Makes a few of my threads look like a beginner did them LOL.

Good job Johnny :yes:

EarlyIIs
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,555 Posts
I wouldn't use washers between the backing plate and the flange. It will allow water and everything known to mankind to enter the flange area right at the seal. If you do anything, use a solid spacer like Brian showed, not that much more cost, sealed and never worry agan. I used them, they worked perfect, and spaced the backing plate correctly. BRP Hot rods also sells them on their website...

T,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,968 Posts
Is there anymore to your write up John?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I wouldn't use washers between the backing plate and the flange. It will allow water and evrything known to mankind to enter the flange area right at the seal. If you do anything, use a solid spacer like Brian showed, not that much more cost, sealed and never worry agan. I used them, they worked perfect, and spaced the backing plate correctly. BRP Hot rods also sells them on their website...

T,
Tom, the flange is about 2" inward of the seal area...

Is there anymore to your write up John?
no, not yet. i'm hoping to have differential installed and get working on the emergency brake cable modifications by this weekend...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
i'll take it into careful consideration Tom. shouldn't be an issue to make them so they'll have that area filled in ;)

appreciate the concerns :yes: :thumbsup:
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top