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Discussion Starter #1
I know the problem could be anything, but...

When I am at stop lights, my car sometimes will just die. It usually fires right back up. Also when my car is idling, warming up in the garage, after about 5 mins of running, it shut off. I fired it back up. Its really annoying I just cant figure out the problem.

Yes there is fuel in the tank, and pressure is good.

I have noticed that when Im driving sometimes when I turn on the turn signal, the car will have a slight surge for a micro second. Doesnt happen all the time. Also sometime when its warming up and the fan turns on, the car stumbles for a second. I have a 100 amp new alternator in the car.

Im wondering if it is something to do with the electrical
 

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I have to ask why the "new" alternator?
Did it do the same thing with the "old" alternator?
I agree, sounds like something electrical.
Check the contacts on the distributor and coil.
 

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need input

I'd be willing to guess your idle is lean if it stops like that. But you really need to describe your combo and since its got a blower, please include as many details as possible.

The situation with electrical loads possibly interupting your ignition source may be caused from EMF interference some how. So give us some details there too. What kind of ignition are you using and how do you have it wired up ?? I find it odd that this is happening. This could be a " soft fault " of a fuse or a fuseable link where its almost blown , but isn't but can't support sustained current flow when there is an additional load placed on the system. Saw this more than once. A real pain to find sometimes. Could be a damaged wire somewhere but its going to be hard to think about this one without being at the car IMO. Could be ground related too.

The battery should provide instantaneous increased current flow then the engine may experience a higher load from the alternator to keep the charging voltage to aprox 13.8 volts. But i doubt the loads you described that there would be a noticable change in idle speed. What happens if you turn on your lights set to bright ?? You might have your battery load tested. Try connecting the fan directly to the battery with the engine running and see if the problem goes away and where does the fan get its power source from now ??

The problem with your engine just dying might be electrical as well. How do you have your starter wiring set up ?? If your using the stock wiring , check the wires going down to the solonoid and make sure they're not touching anything like headers and there isn't any bare spots on the wires. I'd look there first. Let us know what you find. Its been a while since i've looked at factory wiring so i'd get a manual and check out each wire going down to the solenoid and where it came from to make sure its in good shape.
 

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also make sure you have all the proper grounds in place i.e. body to chassis, chassis to engine. and good grounds to your accessories like the MSD box and the fan and etc...and all the connections. Also if you have too many wires tapped onto the stock fuse box for power sources you could be overloading it but not cause it to blow fuses, stranger things have happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright...I check some things out and get back to you guys
 

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Tony (66novaSS) had this kind of issue with his 66 about 6 months ago. We chased it for a while, changing thing. Come to find out, there was a bare wire under the dash that would occasionally touch the steering column, and ground itself. car would die just like you're describing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tony (66novaSS) had this kind of issue with his 66 about 6 months ago. We chased it for a while, changing thing. Come to find out, there was a bare wire under the dash that would occasionally touch the steering column, and ground itself. car would die just like you're describing.
Cool. Thanks man.

You know my brother over at CHP right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'd be willing to guess your idle is lean if it stops like that. But you really need to describe your combo and since its got a blower, please include as many details as possible.

The situation with electrical loads possibly interupting your ignition source may be caused from EMF interference some how. So give us some details there too. What kind of ignition are you using and how do you have it wired up ?? I find it odd that this is happening. This could be a " soft fault " of a fuse or a fuseable link where its almost blown , but isn't but can't support sustained current flow when there is an additional load placed on the system. Saw this more than once. A real pain to find sometimes. Could be a damaged wire somewhere but its going to be hard to think about this one without being at the car IMO. Could be ground related too.

The battery should provide instantaneous increased current flow then the engine may experience a higher load from the alternator to keep the charging voltage to aprox 13.8 volts. But i doubt the loads you described that there would be a noticable change in idle speed. What happens if you turn on your lights set to bright ?? You might have your battery load tested. Try connecting the fan directly to the battery with the engine running and see if the problem goes away and where does the fan get its power source from now ??

The problem with your engine just dying might be electrical as well. How do you have your starter wiring set up ?? If your using the stock wiring , check the wires going down to the solonoid and make sure they're not touching anything like headers and there isn't any bare spots on the wires. I'd look there first. Let us know what you find. Its been a while since i've looked at factory wiring so i'd get a manual and check out each wire going down to the solenoid and where it came from to make sure its in good shape.
I have a Weiand 142 Supercharger w/ a Holley carb 700cfm on a basic stock 300hp crate motor. Mechanical fuel pump. Ignition is a Petronix Flame Thrower Distributor and coil.......I have a one wire alternator 100amp. I do have a distribution terminal block thing that connects all my power wires together and then that connects to the battery it self.....maybe that inline fuse is bad in there. I have one wire from the terminal block to the horn relay that supplies power to the fuse box for the stuff under the dash. My dual fans are hooked up to the relay and then terminal block. Thats all I can think of at the top of my head....Ill have to go out and look some more....
 

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I have a Weiand 142 Supercharger w/ a Holley carb 700cfm on a basic stock 300hp crate motor. Mechanical fuel pump. Ignition is a Petronix Flame Thrower Distributor and coil.......I have a one wire alternator 100amp. I do have a distribution terminal block thing that connects all my power wires together and then that connects to the battery it self.....maybe that inline fuse is bad in there. I have one wire from the terminal block to the horn relay that supplies power to the fuse box for the stuff under the dash. My dual fans are hooked up to the relay and then terminal block. Thats all I can think of at the top of my head....Ill have to go out and look some more....
A bad fuse is a dead fuse, no current flows at all.
 

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Yeah, fuses go bad (open) or work. Almost always :) I have seen a fuse that was broke. The foil was broken, like a perfect shear, not burnt, and sure enough that bugger would come into and out of contact without burning out. NOT you case though.

Sounds like the idle circuit on the carb. So when you go to start it up you are on a start circuit and it fires right up. I dont know carbs. Big Al?? Carb master?? JR
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, fuses go bad (open) or work. Almost always :) I have seen a fuse that was broke. The foil was broken, like a perfect shear, not burnt, and sure enough that bugger would come into and out of contact without burning out. NOT you case though.

Sounds like the idle circuit on the carb. So when you go to start it up you are on a start circuit and it fires right up. I dont know carbs. Big Al?? Carb master?? JR
theres a circuit on the carb?
 

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theres a circuit on the carb?
Hahaha.. I dont know?? LOL Im a EFI guy. But yeah. You have a idle circuit, or idle path if you will, idle jets and a separate running jet circuit I think. Been years since I messed with carbs but I thought they had an idle circuit (jets) and a separate set of jets for off idle. No?? Hahaha. I may be dreaming this stuff up in my sleep. I should stay in bed with these thoughts I guess :) JR
 

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Hahaha.. I dont know?? LOL Im a EFI guy. But yeah. You have a idle circuit, or idle path if you will, idle jets and a separate running jet circuit I think. Been years since I messed with carbs but I thought they had an idle circuit (jets) and a separate set of jets for off idle. No?? Hahaha. I may be dreaming this stuff up in my sleep. I should stay in bed with these thoughts I guess :) JR
LOL....I would be surprised to see anything wrong with the idle circuits since its a brand new carb that came with SC set for the SC.
 

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From the factory, GM cars with points had a resister wire from the firewall bulkhead connector to the ignition coil positive position. This wire provided about 8 VDC to the ignition coil. (A constant 12 VDC will burn up the points.) There was a second wire attached to that wire at the coil. The second wire went to the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. It provided a full 12VDC when the starter was engaged to assist in cold starts. I have worked on a few cars that this wire was not re-attached to the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid when the strater was replaced. (The wire would just be dangling under the car.) This would cause an intermittant short that would cause the car to cut off. (The engine and frame are grounded.) Usually the car will restart immediately afterward.



When I worked for Automotive Technicans (Forrest Park,GA), a customer had a '68 Corvette with this problem. It had been to four other shops and nobody could find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
From the factory, GM cars with points had a resister wire from the firewall bulkhead connector to the ignition coil positive position. This wire provided about 8 VDC to the ignition coil. (A constant 12 VDC will burn up the points.) There was a second wire attached to that wire at the coil. The second wire went to the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. It provided a full 12VDC when the starter was engaged to assist in cold starts. I have worked on a few cars that this wire was not re-attached to the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid when the strater was replaced. (The wire would just be dangling under the car.) This would cause an intermittant short that would cause the car to cut off. (The engine and frame are grounded.) Usually the car will restart immediately afterward.



When I worked for Automotive Technicans (Forrest Park,GA), a customer had a '68 Corvette with this problem. It had been to four other shops and nobody could find the problem.
Thanks, Ill look into this when I get home from work
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I still havent messed with looking for any electrical problems yet. Just got done converting from manual drum to power disc. WOW this thing stops now!

With that said when I slam on the brakes. Then engine will sputter and then sometimes die out. Im assuming the fuel is getting swished around or something I have over half tank in so Im thinking its something to do with the fuel in the bowls.

This has happened before the new brakes when in. I made a quick U turn and in the middle of the turn the car died.

Any ideas? Thanks
 

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So I still havent messed with looking for any electrical problems yet. Just got done converting from manual drum to power disc. WOW this thing stops now!

With that said when I slam on the brakes. Then engine will sputter and then sometimes die out. Im assuming the fuel is getting swished around or something I have over half tank in so Im thinking its something to do with the fuel in the bowls.

This has happened before the new brakes when in. I made a quick U turn and in the middle of the turn the car died.

Any ideas? Thanks
hmm try checking the float levels, they may be a tad high and it can spill out the vent tubes and cause a flooding problem, or even come out the boosters.
 
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