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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I am stumped and I hate asking for help.

Overview: Car shuts off after running for about a minute. If I crank the engine over it won't start again but it will turn over. If I completely turn off the car and switch off the ignition system, then turn it back and crank it over the car will fire right up and run for another minute or two before shutting off.

Detailed:

My car has an accel HEI distributor pn 59107C that I have been using for at least 3 years. Driving home one day my car shut off and I thought it was out of gas. I found out the car would not turn back on unless the key was switched completely off and then back to the on position.

At first I replaced the fuel pump (Seperate issue leaking gas)

Then I checked the ignition wire going to the HEI. 12v not running and a whopping 16v at idle on one multimeter, and 15.5v idle on another multimeter. It seemed to be getting consistent power. So I assumed it was something in the distributor. Replaced the coil with the accel HEI super coil pn 110-140005. Did the exact same thing.

Contacted Accel/MSD tech support for my alternator. Tech suggested since I was seeing high voltages to check my alternator. Took my alternator to get it tested. Failed (it's 50 years old). Bought and installed a new alternator. Same problem.

Finally figured I needed a Ignition module. Bought the literal cheapest ignition module from autozone for 22$. Dropped it in. Car fires right up and runs great!!! So I drove the car for a few weeks, and my ignition system was quickly deteriorating. To the point where I couldn't step on the gas or there would be multiple backfires and popping noises. Some headers were cold while others were hot. My car was getting 4.2mpg. It wasn't working correctly. I figured this was because I bought the cheapest module I could find.

Had a street fire MSD CDI box I never installed. Figured before buying a 50$ module might as well replace it with the MSD box I already have so I can save that money. Spent a day wiring up the box and making everything nice and neat. Car fires right up again and is very snappy! After a few minutes of idling/revving, the car shuts off. Crank the car over, and nothing. Turn the key all the way to the off position, then back on, car fires right up and runs for another minute or two. This is the same exact problem I had initially.

Figured it was something going on with my keyed ignition wire. So I wired a wire directly from the battery to a switch near my dash. Exact same problem. Car will run for a minute or two, then shut off. Will crank while still having switch on, and nothing. Will flip switch off, then back on again and the car will fire up and run for a few minutes and do the same thing.

I figured my car was burning up ignition modules from some electrical problem. At this point my ignition system is basically wired up independently from all other accessories and whatnot on the car. I figured my voltage regulator was bad. Just replaced it a few minutes ago and didn't make a lick of a difference.

Parts changed:


Large cables to battery and starter
Fuel pump
Coil
Alternator
Ignition Module #2 (the 22$ one that worked for a bit)
MSD Street Fire CDI Box (to replace 22$ ignition module)
Wired 12v keyed ignition directly from battery to switch to CDI box
Voltage Regulator

I'm stumped:doh:, and broke at this point. I don't really want to walk to school anymore. So any help is appreciated.
 

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I had kind of the same problem with my MSD distributor. I was a bad pick up coil. When it would get hot it would quit working and work when it cooled back down. When it shuts down test to see if you still have spark. mine didn't when hot. If you running a MSD box maybe it is doing the same thing. I had a MSD 6 act up once also.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So you're suggesting the magnetic pick up in the distributor?

That's probably one of the last things that hasn't been changed. I really hope it isn't the box that's the problem. That would be a 150$ down the drain

Thank you for the input. I'll keep you posted if I figure it out.
 

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Chances are the 16V was causing an issue with the ignition module, and possibly other electrical components. Now that you've replaced the voltage regulator, you should have 13.5 to 14.5V when the car is running, but you still may have other components that broke due the high voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I put in the new voltage regulator, and I was running the exact same voltage with the new one in it o_O

I wound up buying a proform HEI dizzy and swapped it. I didn't run it with the CDI box and it's been running fine ever since.

At the same time ignition module #2 ran fine for a few weeks then deteriorated very quickly to the point where my gas mileage was 4 mpg.

I'm going to guess it was my magnetic pick up in my accel dizzy. Guess I got a lemon or something. It did last me 4 years although that was only about 4,000 miles.

When I get time maybe I'll pull out that old accel dizzy and test the pick up (as instructed by the service manual) to see if that was what was wrong for someone else to know for future references.
 
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