Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all....

Well just got back from the machine shop and they said my 230 block is bored .40 over and they dont want me taking it to .60 because it'll over heat.

I'm wondering if anyone else has bored a l6 to .60 and how does it run???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
436 Posts
Are you trying to make V8 power out of an I6, I think if you went .60 you will overheat, If you look around on the site there are a bunch of people that have the I6 and have done some pretty amazing stuff with them, but I would be willing to bet that not one of them would recommend going any bigger. Welcome to the site.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
No I'm not looking for power I'm just hoping to salvage the block and save some $.

although power would be nice.

Anyone think I might be able to keep it cool with aftermarket cooling solutions, BeCool aluminum radiator maybe???
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,761 Posts
BeCool radiators ain't cheap... You'll spend on that more than you would getting another core.

An easier approach might be to keep an eye out in the classifieds for someone who is upgrading their 6 to an 8, and getting rid of the old engine. I've seen whole front clips and 6's go for cheap/free here from time to time. Who knows? The replacement one might not need a rebuild. Besides...if you're going to the trouble of rebuilding it, you should start with a good core.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,416 Posts
Hello,

You can take this with a grain of salt, but I have bored a lot of 230s and 250s .060" (3.935"?) with no overheating troubles.

I have even bored a few to 4.00" (.125" over) after checking cyl wall thickness with no problems, but Im not recommending it.


This is kind of the way I see this. If your is already .040" over and you take it .060", thats .010" per side? Lets say yours is worn some, maybe .007" at the top (just a guess), now you are removing even less material. Its kinda hard for me to see .010" or less making an issue of overheating?


I wouldnt want to second guess your engine guy, because hes there and Im sure hes on top of things, Im just sharing my experiences.


Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
I've heard of people going that far over but the person I would talk to is larry (twisted6) he has helped me out everytime I have a question. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
I have had a couple of 250s bored .125 over and never had any problems but I also had the blocks sonic checked. On a 250 block if you pull the water pump off and the cylinder has been machined for clearance for the wp impeller than it should be a heavy duty block not sure if the same for a 230 block
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,838 Posts
Check out Leo Santicci's book Chevrolet Inlines 6 cyl Power Manual. I'd go with your engine guy, he may know where to get somthing you want. :yes:
If it were me I'd get a 250 & go from there till you can upgrade to bigger projects.:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
230 and 250 blocks are interchangable. Unless there was a core shift or other issue with the block, it should take 60 over. Make sure you have the water pump installed before you install and torque the head. The left front corner of the block is weak and without the wp there is a chance of cracking the block in the are of the head bolt and waterpump opening.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,365 Posts
Not sure why he said it would overheat. I'd worry more about cracking, but if the walls are thick enough, that shouldn't be an issue. I had one bored 60 over with no issues.

I've had a couple of 230s and they were very easy to keep cool. In the winter, I had to cover the stock radiator to get them to warm up.

Have it sonic test and bore it if the walls are thick enough. You could put a 250 crank and pistons and have fun. I've never had a 250, but was always impressed with my 230s

Twisted6 could give you the best advise.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,405 Posts
I wouldn't guess. There's enough variation in wall thickness just from production casting that one block could be good to bore and another could have one wall thin.
It's simple enough to have the wall thickness sonic checked. A little expense could save a lot of money and trouble. Straight sixes are easy to find because many more people swap in V8's than the other way around. It may be easier to find another block than try to "save" an overheated block. It's not like it's a rare Duesenberg block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
My 194 is .040 over and doesn't overheat. I'm still running the small 6cyl radiator. I don't think .010 is going to make a difference heatwise. Have the block sonic checked for wall thickness. You can always have the block sleeved to bring the bores back down to stock specs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I am running a 250 .060 over, modified head, big cam, stock radiator, no problems. Just got my lumps and the big valves and roller rockers are on the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,555 Posts
My recommendation for ANY engine, is only bore as far as you have to. Granted, if piston selection varies greatly from one to another that is a condition, but I know of many people going .060 over right from std bore when .030 is fine. The engine will not make that much more power but you could rebuild it again when you need to for whatever reason.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top