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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been pouring over which cam I will be putting in the 350 im building up.
350 fresh 60 over block
set of 2.05 cammel hump heads. Shaved down (basicly maxed out)
set of flat top pistons
and a stock crank.

Right now I am going to leave the 3 speed and factory 3.08 gears in untill I save up the money for a ford 9 and 700r4. (will be awhile down the road, will be finishing up the interior before the rearend and tranny are changed)

What I am looking for out of the car is basicly not a sleeper, but no so much lope and rumble that every joe out there wants to race me red light to red light. I just like the sound of the motor, not going to be a strip car.. just a weekend cruiser around town with maybe a 2 - 3 times a year short road trip. I am sure with what I have currently any cam will give me enough pull to be fun to drive even with the bad gears.

I have been looking at the lunati voodoo http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60102LK/

Basic Operating RPM Range 1,400-5,700
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 219
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 227
Duration at 050 inch Lift 219 int./227 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration 268
Advertised Duration 262 int./268 exh.

price isnt really a concern, this one just happened to be on sale.

Any of you experts have any insite or suggestions that you think would fit the application better? All I ask is I have enough vaccum for the brakes really. I would be willing to try a slightly more radical cam if it doesnt idle like its choking.

Thanks guys
 

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I'm certainly not an expert, but I think you'll be somewhat limited with how radical you can go with your cam if you're still using your stock converter.

1.) Are you running a stock converter or a converter with a slightly higher stall?

2.) Do you know what your static compression ratio is currently?

3.) What is the LSA of that cam? (i.e. I believe a 108 LSA will be more lopey than a 112 LSA)

With 3.08 gears and a stock converter you wouldn't be able to get too radical with the cam, at least based on what little knowledge I've picked up over the years, haha! Maybe you can get ahold of a looser converter in the meantime before you do your 700R4 swap?

Hopefully some more experience guys will chime in here for you to give you some better ideas than I can provide.
 

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Well, I just finished my engine install last week. The cam I went with is the Voodoo 60101 cam. Has a subtle but nice idle, and is said to produce up to 19" of vacuum, I haven't tested the vacuum to see how much it actually produces but it is enough for my brake booster. Also I still have the stock converter on the trans. I tossed the cam into a Goodwrench 350 crate motor that I also put vortec heads on. Seeing as I haven't fully broken in the motor yet I can't tell you how it pulls to 5500 but I can tell you mine pulls VERY nicely to 3000 with maybe half throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm certainly not an expert, but I think you'll be somewhat limited with how radical you can go with your cam if you're still using your stock converter.

1.) Are you running a stock converter or a converter with a slightly higher stall?

2.) Do you know what your static compression ratio is currently?

3.) What is the LSA of that cam? (i.e. I believe a 108 LSA will be more lopey than a 112 LSA)

With 3.08 gears and a stock converter you wouldn't be able to get too radical with the cam, at least based on what little knowledge I've picked up over the years, haha! Maybe you can get ahold of a looser converter in the meantime before you do your 700R4 swap?

Hopefully some more experience guys will chime in here for you to give you some better ideas than I can provide.
Sorry for not being more specific, it is a 3 speed standard. If it is that terrible, I can skip on the interior and do the rearend/tranny swap. I was just trying to get the car better looking and driveable before I worry about it. But, the interior isnt too bad as is, and I would much rather not waste money on a cam that I will be screaming at later when I do make the swap.

Compression ratio should be 10:1
it lists the lobe seperation at 112 on the voodoo 60102LK above.

I am just starting to learn about cams, and well motors in general. I have been around mechanics my whole life. Picked up just enough to get me by, never enough to jump into a conversation.
 

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I have been pouring over which cam I will be putting in the 350 im building up.
350 fresh 60 over block
set of 2.05 cammel hump heads. Shaved down (basicly maxed out)
set of flat top pistons
and a stock crank.

Right now I am going to leave the 3 speed and factory 3.08 gears in untill I save up the money for a ford 9 and 700r4. (will be awhile down the road, will be finishing up the interior before the rearend and tranny are changed)

What I am looking for out of the car is basicly not a sleeper, but no so much lope and rumble that every joe out there wants to race me red light to red light. I just like the sound of the motor, not going to be a strip car.. just a weekend cruiser around town with maybe a 2 - 3 times a year short road trip. I am sure with what I have currently any cam will give me enough pull to be fun to drive even with the bad gears.

I have been looking at the lunati voodoo http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60102LK/

Basic Operating RPM Range 1,400-5,700
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 219
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 227
Duration at 050 inch Lift 219 int./227 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration 268
Advertised Duration 262 int./268 exh.

price isnt really a concern, this one just happened to be on sale.

Any of you experts have any insite or suggestions that you think would fit the application better? All I ask is I have enough vaccum for the brakes really. I would be willing to try a slightly more radical cam if it doesnt idle like its choking.

Thanks guys

I have this cam in my 350 .30 over with dished pistons, dart iron eagle 165cc heads, rpm air gap intake, eddy 600 avs carb, try-y headers, muncie 4 speed, and the stock 3.08 rear gear.

Even with the small heads and highway gears, the car makes a great sound and is very fun to drive.

It doesn't have all the power in the world, but some better heads and more gear will change that.

This cam turned out to be a very good street cam, not too mild and not too wild. I'm very happy with it.
Just my :2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ya, I have been doing alot of talking with a few guys around work (not sure how much they really know) and we are looking at the http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-00012LK/

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,500-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 246
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 246
Duration at 050 inch Lift 246 int./246 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 300
Advertised Exhaust Duration 300
Advertised Duration 300 int./300 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.515 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.515 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.515 int./0.515 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 108

They claim i will enjoy it more, I wish I knew more about cams
 

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Ya, I have been doing alot of talking with a few guys around work (not sure how much they really know) and we are looking at the http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-00012LK/

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,500-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 246
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 246
Duration at 050 inch Lift 246 int./246 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 300
Advertised Exhaust Duration 300
Advertised Duration 300 int./300 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.515 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.515 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.515 int./0.515 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 108

They claim i will enjoy it more, I wish I knew more about cams
That's gonna lopey idle and have poor vacuum. Not what your looking for per your post.

Your first choice was better. Iceman's cam is a nice cam for what your looking to do.

JMHO
 

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I have been pouring over which cam I will be putting in the 350 im building up.
350 fresh 60 over block
set of 2.05 cammel hump heads. Shaved down (basicly maxed out)
set of flat top pistons
and a stock crank.

What I am looking for out of the car is basicly not a sleeper, but no so much lope and rumble that every joe out there wants to race me red light to red light. I just like the sound of the motor, not going to be a strip car.. just a weekend cruiser around town with maybe a 2 - 3 times a year short road trip. I have been looking at the lunati voodoo http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60102LK/

Basic Operating RPM Range 1,400-5,700
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 219
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 227
Duration at 050 inch Lift 219 int./227 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration 268
Advertised Duration 262 int./268 exh.
Any of you experts have any insite or suggestions that you think would fit the application better? All I ask is I have enough vaccum for the brakes really. I would be willing to try a slightly more radical cam if it doesnt idle like its choking. Thanks guys
I think your compression will be over 10 to 1 with a shaved head and flat tops. A stock bore 350 and stock camel hump 186's on a Nova SS was 10:25 to 1. You really need to CC the combustion chambers and calculate the deck height of the piston to accurately predict the compression ratio and then pick the cam. With this limited info only a guess is possible. Throwing power brakes into the equation makes intake closing and overlap very important for a high compression motor. Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think your compression will be over 10 to 1 with a shaved head and flat tops. A stock bore 350 and stock camel hump 186's on a Nova SS was 10:25 to 1. You really need to CC the combustion chambers and calculate the deck height of the piston to accurately predict the compression ratio and then pick the cam. With this limited info only a guess is possible. Throwing power brakes into the equation makes intake closing and overlap very important for a high compression motor. Jack
Thank you for that info Jack, I will have to call my dad over to help out I guess.

As for the other cam, I think I am over it already. They were just trying to convince me to go more radical of a cam. Probably just what they would want.

I will try to get a better handle on the compression and get back at it. I am not exactly sure what all that will take untill my old man teaches me.

Thanks again
 

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Leave it a 3 speed and you won't worry about vacuum as much'
 

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3 speed stick, gotcha! I automatically assumed it was a TH350 or TH400, my bad, haha!

Yeah that might be a little more than you're looking for, but it might work ok too. Maybe you can get in touch with someone that builds engines, etc. that might be able to give you more specifics. It looks like a lot of other guys have chimed in here as well and provided some good info too.

3.08 gears are cool for highway and stuff, but if you could change those out at some point to 3.55 or 3.73 that would deifnitely wake it up. Back when I had my 307 in the car, when I went from 3.08 to 3.73 I dropped just around half a second in the 1/4 mile. Definitely felt better out of the hole. But I know you're probably planning on keeping those for a while, just wanted to share my experience with the gear change.

I had a 215/215 @ .050" cam in my 383 years ago and it was a pretty stable idle, not too radical, made tons of vacuum, and I used to smoke a lot of stuff on the street with that setup even though it wasnt too radical. Made all its power down low but ran out of breath at 5500 RPM.

Now I have a 234/238 @ .050" cam with 112 LSA and it lopes quite a bit. I can still get about 15" of vacuum in park though. Defnitely not as good as the other cam. But I dont have power brakes either so it didnt matter much.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep, lots of great info from you guys.
Had my old man take a quick look (he builds engines for a living, I was just trying to get this done without him helping) With just a bit of quick math he says im right around a 10.5 to 1 ratio.

Called summit and they recomended the cam I was looking at before I even mentioned it. I will probably go that direction since I am set on a 700r4 in the future.

Thank you all again for the help and info.
 

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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60102LK/

Gonna stick with the first choice, unless somebody can convince me before Thursday that the grass is greener on the other side.

Thank you all again for the info


That does look like a nice one. The reason I went with the 60101 is because that's the one the lunatic tech recommended for my set up. I'm VERY happy with the cam he suggested. Good products.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I am still wondering if I will regret sticking to a stock crank instead of a forged. I will not be pushing huge HP with what I have going. Not sure exactly how much hp to expect.

I took a good look at the 60101 but the rpm range of the 60102 will fit the 3 speed stick alittle better (at least that is what I was thinking)
 

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I am still wondering if I will regret sticking to a stock crank instead of a forged. I will not be pushing huge HP with what I have going. Not sure exactly how much hp to expect.
I don't regret mine, I have the Scat 9000(cast crank), Scat forged I beam rods, Lunati 60113 hyd. roller cam, and AFR 195 heads, 4100 stall, 850 Quickfuel carb., Probe forged flat tops, 4.10 gear(going to be)

Gonna run it at the track when I do the rear end. Figure it will go some 11.20-11.50s.

The car is not raced that much so I didn't see a need for the forged crank myself. I did run all forged in my last 406 though.
 

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I've run that cam and LOVED it. I'm not sure how it will run with 3.08's, but with 3.73's, an automatic and a 2600 stall converter, my car came out of the hole like it was shot from a cannon.
 
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