Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As the title says i need to buy a DA sander. I need to strip my cars paint down to bare metal. It seems this and maybe some stripper if needed is the best route to strip the car.
After the car is stripped what should i use to coat it. I hear self etching primer is a good choice for bare metal. I was going to do the body in sections and wanted self etching primer in cans. Any idea what a good brand is and where to buy it?
thanks
Ben
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
327 Posts
Ben, I had great luck in stripping the paint off my 67 with a razor blade in a screwdriver like handle. In 8 hours the car was totally stripped of paint and the DA has easy work of the primer underneath. The paint came off in sheets of glass so I can see how difficult it is for the DA to make a dent on it. There is no need to go to bare metal with the razor blade. My Nova had a high end black paint job but there was issues between paint/primer. I can pm you some pics if you like.
John.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,849 Posts
Ben, I had great luck in stripping the paint off my 67 with a razor blade in a screwdriver like handle. In 8 hours the car was totally stripped of paint and the DA has easy work of the primer underneath.

no need to go to bare metal with the razor blade. My Nova had a high end black paint job but there was issues between paint/primer. I can pm you some pics if you like.
John.
I was thinking WHAT at first. Then I remember a member that had his beautiful new paint job coming off in sheets. That was your car right? Ever get her back in paint?? What a nightmare... JR
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
327 Posts
JR, probably not me but once a guy is committed you have to go for it. The main thing is that the car is from southern Calif. and never in an accident from the looks of it. There have been some minor issues with holes in funny places but that is all patched up now. My body guy will go with an epoxy primer first and then any skimming of body filler.
John.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That sounds like a good route to go.
I was looking for a pneumatic DA Sander and didnt know what people recomended as a good but not too expensive sander. I am also considering have the car media blasted, but i would still need to sanmd it before puting the etching primer on it.
So anyuone have recomendations on a DA Sander?
Thanks for the insight
Ben
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
854 Posts
Da

All the Campbell Hausfield stuff I have purchased has held up really well. Try your local Sears or Home Depot. If there is a Tractor Supply Co store near you, you can try them. Expect to pay about $60 for a decent one. Stay away from the low priced harbor freight ones, because they don't last.
The biggest thing will be a compressor that can supply enough air for continuous use.
Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
This is a related issue and perhaps a quality one as well. The last DA sander I bought won't spin when I put a little pressure on it. I have tried adjusting the air flow and it doesn't make any difference. Have you guys experienced this before?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
JR, probably not me but once a guy is committed you have to go for it. The main thing is that the car is from southern Calif. and never in an accident from the looks of it. There have been some minor issues with holes in funny places but that is all patched up now. My body guy will go with an epoxy primer first and then any skimming of body filler.
John.

Your plan is good. Epoxy primer as your base will provide the best foundation, durability and protection. Just remember you should apply any of the polyester products within the epoxy's recoat window for maximum adhesion or if time goes past the recoat window make sure to scuff the epoxy primer well before applying more products. I often prime the bare metal with 3 coats of quality epoxy (SPI makes a great one) then I allow it to set 12-24 hours and then spray on two coats of polyster primer to take advantage of the extra bond strength from the open recoat window-this timing is optimum. With the epoxy and poly primer on I then have a great surface to block and if there's any low areas found or patch work areas to blend the fillers work well directly over the poly primer with just a little scuffing. I've been monitoring different systems and products for over 25 years, epoxy it the way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
I also stripped my car wih a razor blade; the top coat is what will really clog up the sandpaper.
As mentioned an air DA needs a big compressor so make sure yours has the cfm rating required for the tool.
I knew my compressor wouldn't be adequate so I bought an electric DA made by Porter-Cable, works very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,849 Posts
That sounds like a good route to go.
I was looking for a pneumatic DA Sander and didnt know what people recomended as a good but not too expensive sander. I am also considering have the car media blasted, but i would still need to sanmd it before puting the etching primer on it.
So anyuone have recomendations on a DA Sander?
Thanks for the insight
Ben
I have a really nice ingersoll rand, not terribly expensive but the compressor to run it was. They REALLY suck the air. I was running a 3/8" line to mine. Lotta air consumption. Maybe think about an electric. JR

Oh, and with that. Guys. What the diff between a random orbital and a dual action sander. Always looked similar. I do see the pin on the DA gets its other action (besides rotation) with a cam, and the RO sander must also (its hidden). Only thing I can see is the DA has a longer stroke (larger cam) than the electric RO sander. I have a great attachment for my milwaukee angle grinder. Its a DA attachment. Same large swing as my air DA and a nice large pad. And with the variable speed of the angle grinder it makes short work of paint. I have looked high and low for it and dont see it sold anymore. Its from milwaulkee also. I strongly recommend it for the home car guy. If it can be found LOL JR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,286 Posts
DA stands for dual action and most of the early DA sanders were dual action where you could change from orbital to circular with a flip of the cam or a lock. Nowadays many sanders are still called DA sanders but are actually only single action orbital designs. The size of the orbit usually determines the aggressiveness of the sander.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
The cheapest sander you can buy will stand up to a single job, so save your bucks for the paint.

I would recommend, that you get a DA with a 'lock' feature. It will be a little cam on the back side, which switches the dual action to a true circular action. It is very handy for rust, or anything that the dual action isn't aggressive enough for. Just a real nice feature, kind of makes it two tools in one.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top