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Discussion Starter #721
The Goodguy's Show was a HUGE success. A couple buddies of mine have always been just a little bit faster than I am on the autocross. This time, I was faster than both of them. The new splined sway bar and wider front tire made a huge difference. I have decided I am going to change my front end alignment for next time. My local front end alignment shop only added about 1.5 degrees of caster. I am going to change it to 4-5 degrees of caster. I learned that when you add caster, it automatically gives you extra camber when you are turning. I am also looking at going with some FOX racing shocks and heavier spring rates. I am looking at 600 lbs. springs in the front and 500 lbs. springs in the rear. If it makes it too stiff to drive on the street like this, I can keep my old coil over springs and easily swap them out.

While at the Goodguy's Show. I met another guy with a Chevy II from Oklahoma. He has a 5.3 LS with a carb and a 700R4. He ran a few times on autocross and rode along with me once. He said he had got a lot of info from SNS over the last 5 years. It is always nice to meet a fellow SNS member.

Overall, my car ran great... with the exception of it running a bit hot. Ever since I put air conditioning on it and installed the condenser in front of the radiator, it has ran hot when it gets above 90 degrees outside. I bought a 8" electric fan that I am going to put in front of the condenser to push air through it. I may look at modifying the core support to see if I can fit a larger radiator in there. With my long water pump, I am limited what electric fans I can install on my fan shroud. I am currently running dual 10" fans that move about 2000 cfms. I would really like to move about 3000 cfms.
 

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Discussion Starter #722
I am getting ready for the Goodguy's Show coming up again next month (March 13th-15th at the Texas Motor Speeway). I installed a new Wilwood Master Cylinder with a 15/16" bore (to replace my 1.125 bore) and I have a much softer pedal and more braking power. I think I am going to remove my power brake booster and run full manual brakes as Wilwood recomended. My motor does not produce enough vacuum to really get any benefit from the 7" dual diaphragm booster. Right now, I can't tell much difference in the pedal feel with the motor running vs. with the motor shut off. Also, I have decided I am going to letter my Chevy II up and add some graphics to it for the Goodguy's Show. A buddy of mine has a sign shop and helped me mock up the design yesterday.


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Discussion Starter #724
I ordered stiffer springs for the coil over shocks today. Justin, at Scott's Hot Rods, recommended 600 lbs. springs in the front and 500 lbs. springs in the back for running autocross. The stiffer springs should eliminate a lot of body roll. Not sure what kind of street manners I will have with these new springs on. I am hoping I can adjust the shocks to their lightest setting and still have a firm but comfortable ride going down the road. Also, my roll of vinyl arrived and I took it to my buddies shop and ran it through his vinyl plotter. I am using vehicle wrap material and the spec sheet says that it must be above 70 degrees to install it. I am planning on putting a heater in the garage over night so I can work on the graphics on Saturday or Sunday. Should have progress pictures soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #726
The hood didn't turn out as well as I wanted. It wasn't as perfect as I wanted but it wasn't bad for a first try. I have enough vinyl to try the hood again. Overall, I am happy with it though.


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Discussion Starter #730
I could run a hydroboost... but I don't need it. I called Wilwood for technical support and was told that with a correctly sized master cylinder (15/16" piston) that I would have excellent brakes even with out a booster. Now that I have removed the vacuum booster, I am quite happy with the manual brakes. They have a good feel to them and the braking power is better than I had before (when I had a 1.25" piston in the master cylinder and the 7" dual diaphragm booster).
 

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Discussion Starter #731
Ever since I put a condenser out in front of my radiator for my A/C, I started having cooling issues at idle and driving down the interstate. (It cools slightly better driving down the interstate but if it is already running hot, it doesn't want to cool down.) At one point this past fall, I was in a traffic jamb and had to shut the motor off. After it cooled down, I cut the tail off of a rachet strap and tied my hood so it was open about 6" and managed to keep the temperature down so I could continue to move in the bumper to bumper traffic. After some brain storming, I have come to the conclusion that I need to allow more air to move under the hood. I have considered cutting a hole in my inner fenders and pop riveting in some louvers. However, I think the cleaner thing to do is going to be to drill some 2" holes in the inner fenders and then dimple die them. I think this will prevent it from looking like such a hatchet job. Also, there is a screen in the back of my cowl induction hood that I am going to cut out. A buddy of mine was able to lower his temp by 15 degrees by removing the screen on a cowl induction hood on his pickup. (At low speeds or idle, air moves through the radiator and escapes through the cowl. When moving down the interstate, it creates a high pressure area and it pushes cold air to the air cleaner.) So, I ordered a 2" hole saw and a dimple die yesterday evening. Making Swiss Cheese soon.
 

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Hi there . .

I agree with ' BLYOTH ' . . . that your car looks Really Good (before) & after the graphics , well done .

(and, just what part of Texas are you at ? ) .

later, jim

(born in Dallas, worked all around there .) .
 

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Discussion Starter #734
My dimple die arrived today. I made a simple template and laid the location of the holes out parallel to the braces from the frame to the fire wall. On the driver's side, I was able to make 6 holes and on the passenger side I was able to get 5 holes in (due to interference with the dryer for the A/C. If it helps, but not enough, I have room to add several more holes. However, eleven 2" holes should let a lot of air out.
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Discussion Starter #735 (Edited)
In order to increase air flow under the hood, I also decided to cut the screen out of the cowl on the hood. At low speeds or idle, hot air from the engine compartment will escape through the cowl. As you speed up, it creates a high pressure zone and cold air comes in through the cowl. So, I started by drilling 2 holes, one on each side. I then used an auto body saw and cut out the screen and filed the cut so it was smooth and straight. While the hood was off, I decided to paint the under side of the hood trim black. I had never got around to painting it. It was in grey epoxy primer.


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Discussion Starter #737
I finally got my new springs installed. I put 600# per inch springs on the front and 500# per inch springs on the rear. I borrowed a set of scales from a friend that fabricates race cars and adjusted my springs to get as close to a 50/50 weight distribution as possible with me in the car. I got pretty close. Also, I found it interesting that my car only weighed 3288 lbs. with me in the drivers seat. That means my car weighs about 3100 lbs. My seats weight 80 lbs each so I could probably shed 110 lbs. by going to some aluminum racing seats. I may consider that in the future.

I took my car for a test drive with the new springs. It definitely has a more firm ride but I think it is still going to be a comfortable ride. I did notice that I have much less body roll now. The springs made a big difference.

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Discussion Starter #740
I had a productive afternoon in the shop. A few months ago, a guy locally was selling some used (but like new condition) LED headlights for $100. When I looked them up online, they were $500 a pair. I thought I would take a chance on them. I installed them this afternoon. They give the car a nice clean look. My other LED lights (on the left in the picture) were utilitarian. They were a huge upgrade, in terms of light output, from the OEM style sealed beam lights but they did not have a very clean look. I haven't driven in the dark yet but in the shop, they seem to put off a lot of light in a nice pattern. I will probably never hook it up but the lights have a heated lens that would come in handy if the car was parked outside and if it iced or snowed.

I also started mocking up an air dam out of cardboard this afternoon. I tried the S-10 air dam a few years ago. I am not sure if I ordered the wrong one, if they sent me the wrong one, or what happened but it wasn't even close to fitting. So, I will take my cardboard template to a local sheet metal shop tomorrow and get them to shear and brake some pieces for me. I may do some bead rolling to strengthen it.

The geometry on my my splined sway bar wasn't quite right when I installed it. I have one of Scott's early front subframe kits and the splined sway bar he sent me was made for their current model of Chevy II subframe. I did some measuring and tried to order some longer arms from Scott's Hot Rods but they wanted $200 for a pair. I figured I could modify the arms I have and save a few bucks. So, this evening, I cut the arms in half and welded in an extra 1" and angled the arms so they were more in alignment with the mount on the lower a-arms.

Also, I did a little trimming on my front fenders. I have always had a tight clearance from the front of the tire to the fender and had even made some longer fender braces to get some extra clearance. Well, I am going to have the front end aligned this week and I am adding about 3 degrees more caster. When they add the shims to my lower control arm, it is going to locate the tire a little bit further forward and I was probably going to have clearance issues again. So, I used a piece of masking tape to lay out my cut and used my air auto body saw to make the cuts. The modification is subtle and most people will never know it didn't come from the factory this way.

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