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Discussion Starter #1
I have been trying to decide what to do wtih my car for over 2 years now and Im just going to do this once and the right way.

Basically Im going to start with the 010 4 bolt 350 block in the car and replace everything else lol. But I had a couple questions.

How thick should the cylinder walls be if I build a 500+hp 383 and add a 200 shot of nitrous? Im going to have it checked but dont want to waist my time with a block that cant handle the pressure. It will be aligned honed, decked, main studs installed, and i might have to go .060 over. That is the only part that has me concerned and spending 2k in the bottom end and 2k in heads to have them destroyed by the stock block would not make me happy lol.

The crank, rods, pistons will all be forged parts. I want to run a set of AFR 195 with the comp porting done. The motor will have just over 11.0:1 compression and a solid roller cam.

Anyways, if you have any suggestion let me know. Maybe a a Dart 400 block would be a better investment since I want this motor to last atleast 10 years and a good beating at the dragstrip during the season.

-Dan
 

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well as long as you use arp head bolts or head studs and a mls type of gasket you should be fine with a stock block but for the added security i would recommend the dart block
 

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well as long as you use arp head bolts or head studs and a mls type of gasket you should be fine with a stock block but for the added security i would recommend the dart block
the dart block is the best choice. if you dont want to spend to much get a different 350 4 bolt block and only go .020

if you have to use the .060 you will be ok but i would do a short fill on the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, the more I think about using a stock block, the more I feel its not worth the cost. It might last a few years or a week, I have no idea.

With a Dart block, the cost of building a 383 vs. a 400 is just about the same lol. The block is the same cost, crank is the same cost, pistons are almost the same cost, rods are the same....etc... Just the small difference in machine work.

I see on their website they recommend a 3.75 inch stroke max but has anyone gone larger? The cost of a 4 inch crank is the same so the bigger the better right.:D

-Dan
 

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I wouldn't put any money into a 350 block unless it has factory nodular 2482 caps, or steel caps.
The Dart SHP is the way to go.
X2! By the time you get the machine work all done on your old block you could have the shp block for just a few more bucks!
 

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yes the SHP block is going to be beter....but we have a stock block 388 that has been running for about ten years with out even a freshin up. it is in a 70 camaro and is running 9.70's on a 225 hit. Camgrinder know the car. (Big Mikes white car). havent had one issue with the block or bottom end and it also has a stock 400 crank in it!!:yes: to get the machine work done on a good gm block is going to run about half of the SHP block so if your on a budget i would do the GM, but if price is no roblem than the added strength of the aftermarket block would be beter.
 

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We have a stock 350 block with a Ohio Crank Shaft 383 crank and rods, mahle pistons, brodex IK 200 heads 501. / 5.14 roller with a TH350, 10 inch converter, 8.2 rear with 355 grears. BG 650 carb and dual plane intake. Car is 2850 pounds

All motor:

7.26 1/8 mile 1.57 60 ft times
11.58 1/4 mile

We are still tuning it, new motor and car is now spinning.

Very easy build without a ton of cost.

Crank and Rods: $400.00
Pistons: $400.00
Heads: $1000.00

This is the high cost items of the build :D
 

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yes the SHP block is going to be beter....but we have a stock block 388 that has been running for about ten years with out even a freshin up. it is in a 70 camaro and is running 9.70's on a 225 hit. Camgrinder know the car. (Big Mikes white car). havent had one issue with the block or bottom end and it also has a stock 400 crank in it!!:yes: to get the machine work done on a good gm block is going to run about half of the SHP block so if your on a budget i would do the GM, but if price is no roblem than the added strength of the aftermarket block would be beter.
Big Mike's car must have 1000 runs on that motor!!!!:eek: Freaking amazing!!
 

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Big Mike's car must have 1000 runs on that motor!!!!:eek: Freaking amazing!!
ha ha ha!! yah it has alot thats for sure. its been in 3 or 4 differant cars.:eek: first was in his brothers camaro then sold and put into a el camino and then Mike got it back and put it in his camaro. lol. its def, got some passes on it thats for sure. and the cool thing is it just keeps getting faster every time we take it out.:yes:
 

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ha ha ha!! yah it has alot thats for sure. its been in 3 or 4 differant cars.:eek: first was in his brothers camaro then sold and put into a el camino and then Mike got it back and put it in his camaro. lol. its def, got some passes on it thats for sure. and the cool thing is it just keeps getting faster every time we take it out.:yes:
God I hope I get that lucky with my motor!:pray:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The more I look into this, the more sense the SHP block makes. I wont have to use retro-fit lifters either which will save some money and put me around the same cost when all finished. I just have to do some more research and talk to some more people to find out what they recommend for the combo. My goal is a street friendly car with a lot of torque and will run easy low 11s, high 10s on the motor. Then I can spray it... :devil:

Camgrinder, Ill be looking you up when I decide on a power band and Cylinder heads.

-Dan
 

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The more I look into this, the more sense the SHP block makes. I wont have to use retro-fit lifters either which will save some money and put me around the same cost when all finished. I just have to do some more research and talk to some more people to find out what they recommend for the combo. My goal is a street friendly car with a lot of torque and will run easy low 11s, high 10s on the motor. Then I can spray it... :devil:

Camgrinder, Ill be looking you up when I decide on a power band and Cylinder heads.

-Dan
You will not regret going with the shp block and trust me when I say Camgrinder knows his stuff!!!! Awesome dude!!!!!:yes: I would go with the afr 210's if you are going to build anything bigger then 400 cubes.
 

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The Dart SHP is the way to go.
:yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:. LITTLE M :devil::devil::devil:, if u plan on goin real crazy for the future.

You will not regret going with the shp block and trust me when I say Camgrinder knows his stuff!!!! Awesome dude!!!!!:yes: I would go with the afr 210's if you are going to build anything bigger then 400 cubes.
he's gotten into the 10's w/ a 331 SBC :eek::D. faster than i've gone w/ my 406. so he defintely knows his stuff......

LIL JOHN
 

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funny you old timers if there is any on this thread should no that a stock block can take some abuse just look at how top fuel engines use to be ............ cast iron 392 hemis :eek: they stood up to some punishment for there time :yes:
 

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i myself am budget i will use the stock block and use good internals ( all forged of course ) and use good bolts / studs ( arp only ) if your going for gold on your nitrous pill ( above 500 hp shot ) then yeah by all means buy the better block but if your only going to go as high as a 200 shot then a stock block will do just fine :yes: imo of course :D
 
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