So here's what my son and I are thinking to do at this point, being creative... I'm going to do all the bodywork, stretching and molding the panels, welding the 4" cowl, repairing all the rot, then sanding to about a 120 finish and clear-coating it numerous times to seal it and just add to the METHTRAPNOVA format. I think leaving the metal bare under a nice few layers of clearcoat would look pretty crazy, showing all the seams, the repair work, there will be NO FILLER on this car when I'm done with all the work. Just steel, lead and brass. All the seams will be either leaded or brazed, then filed smooth and sanded finish.that repair doesn't look too terrible at all. I also have a very special place in my heart for bare metal. Progress.
Exactly what I'm going for. I've seen a few cars over the years where they just clear coated the work and it was really beautiful. Totally shameless and raw. It kinda goes with the look to fit the name.I can always paint it later... maybe... LOL
Alumi-Nova would be crazy awesome! Light as heck, only issue I would have would be the ability to withstand any damage from pressures exerted on the long panels. Aluminum is pretty resilient though and it's ability to maintain form, depending on the aluminum, would definitely be a factor in the molding. I wonder how difficult it would be to make some one-off front fenders and hood from sheets. I could mold some up pretty easily since the gen 3 don't have too many crazy lines or contours. A tack weld here, a long stretch there, cut a bit and form a bit, everywhere a tap tap... Old Mc Andy... oh... Sorry. LOLThe Alumi-Nova would be amazing. That bare metal nova is pretty slick...I like it quite a bit.
Well, I'm straightening everything so the roughness will be part of the persona of the car, hence it's name... Pretty much everything will be smooth but it'll have a 5 o'clock shadow I was going to clear coat it anyhow and then wrap it all with a matte finish, not sure the color but I think we'll go with the bare-metal look for now. I can always change my mind later...I think that looks awesome if you have a super duper clean/straight car. I wouldn't do it on something that is that beat up. Fix the sheet metal as best you can. If you're looking for a rough and rowdy look, then go with satin black.
Personally, if you want an inexpensive/all business paint job, I'd use single stage white for the ease of touch ups, ability to hide iffy putty work and clean/plain appearance.
Yeah, That's my thought exactly! I looked the motor over the best I could without tearing it apart (the guy's garage was a literal disaster) so, spun the motor over by hand and am happy with the purchase. No telling what's inside but, heads, carb, new aluminum water pump, other sheetmetal parts, a new never run HEI distributor, I could easily sell parts and still have the motor and get my $ back and then some possibly. Wouldn't use that intake (Speedway copy of a Performer) so I would let that go too. I'll post up some pics after I get my kid to start the tear-down. He's totally excited to have yet another engine in the corral. I think we're now up to 5 total engines... and a couple spare good seasoned late 60's early '70's 350 blocks with 4-bolt mains and none are more than 0.020 over... some are still stock 4.0" bore. We have a lot of weight.. LOLI would have paid $450 for the heads alone. Worth it for sure.
I saw the same episode and also Richard Holdner's vids on cheap aluminum heads too (along with Eric Weingartner's essentials). All pretty consistent results. I don't need to make massive HP but the aluminum heads would let me run more timing and keep the cyl head temp down a bit with the total final compression I'll be pushing using the blower. My kid is actually totally happy with the purchase and loves it when I find a great deal. I just went outside and sprayed the thing down with WD and then turned it over a few revs then did it again and sealed it up for a day or two. Gotta get it into the shop and tear it apart to see what internals are in there. For $450... I couldn't go wrong!! and the aluminum heads gotta be better than the smoggers on the stock motors hands down, even out of the box (after a valve job and checking them all out thoroughly...)Are there any markings in the aluminum heads you got with your recent small block purchase that would indicate what they were?
You may be fine using the aluminum heads you currently own on your boosted engine... if they are in good working order. I just watched an episode of "Engine Masters" were they swapped heads on the same boosted (thru the carb) engine. One set of aluminum heads was a CNC high dollar set. The other set of aluminum heads were a lower cost "as cast" set with smaller intake port volume.
Both heads made the nearly the same HP and TQ when the engine was boosted. I recall they were using a ProCharger for boost.
P.S. Your son may not be too happy with this post 🙁