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Discussion Starter · #283 ·
that repair doesn't look too terrible at all. I also have a very special place in my heart for bare metal. Progress.
So here's what my son and I are thinking to do at this point, being creative... I'm going to do all the bodywork, stretching and molding the panels, welding the 4" cowl, repairing all the rot, then sanding to about a 120 finish and clear-coating it numerous times to seal it and just add to the METHTRAPNOVA format. I think leaving the metal bare under a nice few layers of clearcoat would look pretty crazy, showing all the seams, the repair work, there will be NO FILLER on this car when I'm done with all the work. Just steel, lead and brass. All the seams will be either leaded or brazed, then filed smooth and sanded finish.

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I don't recall when they stopped using the incremental spot welds like this... Thinking it was around the late '80s? The reason there was so much filler on this side is because of this rear quarter replacement. They apparently needed to get the contour correct and the repair is so indented at the weld seam it needed to be brought out to match the driver's side. I would never have guessed there was this much bondo under that crazy skittles puke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
@Stroker Ace Ventura I seen a Willys Coupe a number of years ago where the guy did all of the bodywork, all of the butt welds and seams etc. and he clear coated the entire thing and it looked sooooo sexy IMO.
Exactly what I'm going for. I've seen a few cars over the years where they just clear coated the work and it was really beautiful. Totally shameless and raw. It kinda goes with the look to fit the name.I can always paint it later... maybe... LOL
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I mean, how awesome would that look?!?!?

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
The Alumi-Nova would be amazing. That bare metal nova is pretty slick...I like it quite a bit.
Alumi-Nova would be crazy awesome! Light as heck, only issue I would have would be the ability to withstand any damage from pressures exerted on the long panels. Aluminum is pretty resilient though and it's ability to maintain form, depending on the aluminum, would definitely be a factor in the molding. I wonder how difficult it would be to make some one-off front fenders and hood from sheets. I could mold some up pretty easily since the gen 3 don't have too many crazy lines or contours. A tack weld here, a long stretch there, cut a bit and form a bit, everywhere a tap tap... Old Mc Andy... oh... Sorry. LOL :p
 

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I think that looks awesome if you have a super duper clean/straight car. I wouldn't do it on something that is that beat up. Fix the sheet metal as best you can. If you're looking for a rough and rowdy look, then go with satin black.

Personally, if you want an inexpensive/all business paint job, I'd use single stage white for the ease of touch ups, ability to hide iffy putty work and clean/plain appearance.

Kev
 

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Discussion Starter · #291 ·
I think that looks awesome if you have a super duper clean/straight car. I wouldn't do it on something that is that beat up. Fix the sheet metal as best you can. If you're looking for a rough and rowdy look, then go with satin black.

Personally, if you want an inexpensive/all business paint job, I'd use single stage white for the ease of touch ups, ability to hide iffy putty work and clean/plain appearance.

Kev
Well, I'm straightening everything so the roughness will be part of the persona of the car, hence it's name... :p Pretty much everything will be smooth but it'll have a 5 o'clock shadow :cool: I was going to clear coat it anyhow and then wrap it all with a matte finish, not sure the color but I think we'll go with the bare-metal look for now. I can always change my mind later...
 

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Discussion Starter · #292 ·
11-21-2021- Update: not much exciting going on directly but, new rear sheetmetal showed up on Friday and... as luck would have it, found a clean super low mile 355 on Craigslist for $450. New roller block and one-piece RMC with aluminum heads, roller rockers, looks like a good solid build so, cash in hand, paid the man. Parts alone are worth it for my kid to use or a spare motor. No play in the pushrods and the guy just wanted his garage cleared of all his kid's abandoned crap so my score!! Got a carb, new aluminum water pump, some rocker covers, air cleaner, some starters, some other goodies too but... Motor!
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Turns over freely and compression all eight. No funny noises and seems tight as a drum a teardown will reveal all but... I figured it was worth it if not just for the parts.
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Discussion Starter · #294 ·
I would have paid $450 for the heads alone. Worth it for sure.
Yeah, That's my thought exactly! I looked the motor over the best I could without tearing it apart (the guy's garage was a literal disaster) so, spun the motor over by hand and am happy with the purchase. No telling what's inside but, heads, carb, new aluminum water pump, other sheetmetal parts, a new never run HEI distributor, I could easily sell parts and still have the motor and get my $ back and then some possibly. Wouldn't use that intake (Speedway copy of a Performer) so I would let that go too. I'll post up some pics after I get my kid to start the tear-down. He's totally excited to have yet another engine in the corral. I think we're now up to 5 total engines... and a couple spare good seasoned late 60's early '70's 350 blocks with 4-bolt mains and none are more than 0.020 over... some are still stock 4.0" bore. We have a lot of weight.. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #295 · (Edited)
So, borescope in the ol' plug hole and... What pops up?

A slight dome with engraved 0.040 on it!! Lol. A 357 NOT magnum!! So far, so good. Walls look to have no ridge and crosshatch still present the entire bore from bottom of stroke to deck so... Very low miles. Still curious what's inside. I was able to get in the crank through the distributor hole and saw some very fine grinding on one rod cap so, could this be a stroker?!? Hmmm only the breaker bar knows for sure...

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Discussion Starter · #298 ·
Tuesday, 11-23-2021: Update on the BPE 8002K heads I ordered from Speedway. Got a message update on their site yesterday indicating the heads would be back-ordered until at least May, 2022. While I have no plans on building my engine until after that time, I don't feel it is money or time well spent. I first need to suss out the new 357 I picked up this last weekend and see what it's comprised of then go from there. I may not need the heads after all if this motor turns out to be a gem in the rough... (I can always buy the heads later if I still need/want them...) Only way to know is to tear it open and start looking at parts. Fingers crossed it's a solid build with lots of life left in it. I have the Torqstorm SC showing up this Friday so that'll be a nice addition to my already-stuffed-to-the-gills foyer in my house. My parts are now taking up more space than my car is.. LOL... ugh! Gotta get cutting and welding on that thing ASAP! I think this weekend should be a good time to start tearing the floors out and prepping the 8-point for install and finding the attachment points for my plates. Any recommendations would be awesome from anyone who's done this before


(We know who you are, Bronze!!!) :p

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Are there any markings in the aluminum heads you got with your recent small block purchase that would indicate what they were?

You may be fine using the aluminum heads you currently own on your boosted engine... if they are in good working order. I just watched an episode of "Engine Masters" were they swapped heads on the same boosted (thru the carb) engine. One set of aluminum heads was a CNC high dollar set. The other set of aluminum heads were a lower cost "as cast" set with smaller intake port volume.
Both heads made the nearly the same HP and TQ when the engine was boosted. I recall they were using a ProCharger for boost.

P.S. Your son may not be too happy with this post 🙁
 

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Discussion Starter · #300 ·
Are there any markings in the aluminum heads you got with your recent small block purchase that would indicate what they were?

You may be fine using the aluminum heads you currently own on your boosted engine... if they are in good working order. I just watched an episode of "Engine Masters" were they swapped heads on the same boosted (thru the carb) engine. One set of aluminum heads was a CNC high dollar set. The other set of aluminum heads were a lower cost "as cast" set with smaller intake port volume.
Both heads made the nearly the same HP and TQ when the engine was boosted. I recall they were using a ProCharger for boost.

P.S. Your son may not be too happy with this post 🙁
I saw the same episode and also Richard Holdner's vids on cheap aluminum heads too (along with Eric Weingartner's essentials). All pretty consistent results. I don't need to make massive HP but the aluminum heads would let me run more timing and keep the cyl head temp down a bit with the total final compression I'll be pushing using the blower. My kid is actually totally happy with the purchase and loves it when I find a great deal. I just went outside and sprayed the thing down with WD and then turned it over a few revs then did it again and sealed it up for a day or two. Gotta get it into the shop and tear it apart to see what internals are in there. For $450... I couldn't go wrong!! :) and the aluminum heads gotta be better than the smoggers on the stock motors hands down, even out of the box (after a valve job and checking them all out thoroughly...)
 
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