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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
@unstable Hey, yeah. Widebody. I'm stretching the quarters and front fenders out about 2" to give it some hips. Nothing crazy and no, not just fender extensions, but the actual well and girth of the body itself. Kinda like this:
Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood


But not quite that pronounced. I figure the steel in the rear is toast so no worries. I can always cut out the quarters and install new steel if this doesn't satisfy my needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
Probably more like this. A bit more subtle. Not looking to set the world on fire, just stretch out the wells a bit for stance and clearance


It's been really difficult to find any links or any pictures of what I really want so it's going to be a combination of many different ideas... This most closely resembles what I'm after...

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle
Car Vehicle Hood Window Motor vehicle
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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that looks like an enormous nightmare. I'm sure you'll slay it...just not something I'd undertake.

If I was skilled enough with sheetmetal, I would build "THE ALUMINOVA" I'd remake the panels in aluminum for weight savings and I probably wouldn't even paint it.
 

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Just seen your second post. The rear I can understand, the front not so much unless you're doing it just for aesthetics. I'm pretty sure you'll have more than enough room to stuff some big tires up front without having to do anything special with the fenders. The rear is another story. I like what I see here. It still looks fairly challenging to pull off without looking like a disaster...but I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
"THE ALUMINOVA"
Friggin' AWESOME! now THAT would be one hell of an undertaking! and light as can be too! Get that car right at 1,800 lbs curb. I have some sheet metal skills but I'm not looking to pull anything off that's too crazy. Just want to widen her at the hips and front end to give it a meaner look and stance for the wider tires without narrowing the rear end at all. No need for all that for me. It's a great thing to do it you want tire clearance inside but this is going to be a street driver with occasional strip duty (maybe). I want to retain the frame so if I ever want to go back to stock format, I can without much ado.
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
Yeah, the front is really way more subtle than the rear but it's there, about 1 1/2" wider on each side. It's for really huge tire clearance on this car as he races trans-am/road course-type. Here's a pic orf the final build:
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood


Check out the link around page 10-13. Crazy parts went into this car! It's gorgeous!! (I will have no stickers on mine, or vents either but those are real vents for a real reason... LOL.. not just for looks) and yes, mostly aesthetics for me but also for tire clearance when I lower it down..
 

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It's pretty bad-arsed, I will admit. I guess what would stop me from doing that (besides for the actual skills) is I can only imagine a couple of ways to go about this. One would be to tip the fenders which it looks like they may have done, I feel like that would be fairly easy compared with other options. If you added width just near the tire, you might be able to contour it down to meet the seam and line at the door. Third option would be basically stretching out everything across the entire side for it to match up...the stuff nightmares are made of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
the stuff nightmares are made of.
That's my plan... Nightmares! Nothing car-related could be as bad as what I've lived through in real life so far so I'm game to try it!! :p Should prove interesting at best! At least my welder will get a good workout. Bought three spools of .025 wire and a box of new .025 tips for my rig and thinking about buying a spool gun for doing the interior but that's a different conversation for a different day. Gotta get that 8-point in first then look at where I'm at with the rest of the interior space for my console concept.Here's kinda what I'm after as far as what the interior will be:

I drew this up earlier this year:
Motor vehicle Gear shift Steering part Car Automotive design


Still a gross work in progress but the concept is sound. It'll be smoother but the idea is a wrap. All wrapped in black pebbled automotive vinyl with brushed aluminum accents (it will be riv-nut assembled and made mostly from aluminum, hence the spool gun)... Not going to TIG it as that's just too damn time consuming and it will all be hidden beneath the vinyl, just want to save weight and have the structural rigidity and be able to dismantle it easily if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
@unstable This is where I got my idea from for the console. Something like this but a different material:
Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bag Luggage and bags


And slightly different layout with the gauges and other components since I'll be running a 12" tablet for my EFI and video. I may do away with the stereo completely and just run my tablet into an amplifier and use it as a head unit with web-based AM/FM but that is yet to be determined as the reception may be an issue and really, for what I need, it may be a moot point for AM/FM...
 

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the above dash looks like the Auto Meter setup. I've been eyeballing that myself. It's challenging to prioritize all of this stuff because I really am at a point where having a decent speedometer, tach and insight into what is happening with temperature and oil would be really useful. I have a hard time bringing myself to spending $X on some junk that I'm going to rip out at some point.
Your console plans look pretty cool brother...really, really cool. If I had more faith in myself I might try something like that but for me I'm just going to be as basic as can be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
If I had more faith in myself
If I did, this would have been done last year!! LOL!! It's all a matter of perspective, brother! I have absolutely no friggin' idea what I'm doing day to day but I'll know when I get there. I typically wing it for everything I do, including flying a plane or climbing ice...skills of the past. You learn what suits you and what doesn't... most of the time :p Sometimes it takes someone else to let you know when to stop... HAHAHAH!

~Andy :ROFLMAO:
 

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I usually stop myself. Primarily because many things that I envision in my mind, when I attempt to take it out of my mind and put it into the world, it comes out like a pile of steaming poo...and it's a far cry from what I had in my mind for a given project. Rarely does it matter how much research or time or effort I put into something, it's like the reverse King Midas touch. When I touch something, it goes to shiiiii7 really quick and it's discouraging. This is why I didn't paint my calipers or bother trying to clean up and paint my subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
I just keep trying until I get the result I'm looking for or someone else whacks me in the head and says "STOP ALREADY!!! FFS!" :p which happens less and less as I continue my journey... Not because I'm getting better, but because I'm a misanthrope... LOL :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
10-19-2021: Update-
small but significant step in determining the extent of meth-fueled hammer work from the PO (POS) on the rear quarters inside the wheel wells. Overzealous hammering and some vice-grip crimping was definitely had on this metal. Tons of dirt and crap pinched inside the folds when I bent them out with some solid old tongs. Now the real work begins and the spot welds all come out for the inner fender wells so I can massage the steel panels and planish/dolly them into compliance! Should be fun. Need to make a template once I get the passenger side done so I can duplicate the driver's side:
Automotive tire Paint Line Wall Red


Got a really nice close-up of this beauty! I love these things! talk about gorgeous but deadly... Like my first wife :p
Head Eye Insect Arthropod Spider
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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@Stroker Ace Ventura do you have a good process for making a good template? ProShaper approach is to use masking tape with that fiberglass packing tape. You can easily make a flexible form/template for use. If your shell is really roached, you can find a Nova that is in good condition and template the panels quite easily to capture the data. Basically just cover the panel you want to template with masking tape overlapping itself and then cover that with the fiberglass tape thoroughly and remove the entire shooting match. Have some baby powder read to cover the masking tape with to kill the sticky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #240 ·
@unstable Yeah, I think I have it worked out. Thanks for the input for sure!! I've been watching some of those videos on molding and shaping and reading up on it quite a bit for the last year and a half or more (not to mention all my previous bodywork and metal forming I've done) on creating templates and the widening and yeah, the tape/glass method works really well. I'm going to try to get the passenger side banged out and planished smooth then take lots of pics and measurements so I can at least transpose and reproduce the measurements following the template so the co-locations are all identical side to side after using the template to create the curves and distances. I'll have to make a reverse mold as they are flopped and one side is opposite the other but then I'll have templates for both sides if I ever want to do it again or someone else wants to borrow them if it turns out well. I really don't want an uneven stance LOL. I just really need to decide how I want to remove the inner well from the rear to make the changes I need and the repairs to the driver's side that has rot The wells have been battered and the lips where they are spot-welded to the quarters at the opening are pretty mangled and hacked. Going to most likely use the wheel of death and then weld it back up once out, adding some metal to stretch it properly, not just beat the living F out of it with a big-a$$ hammer... SHEESH!. Thinking I need to get that rotten metal out on the driver's side lower, repair then work it out best I can looking for weak spots along the way. Going to have to really take care in the lowers, may end up just replacing the entire thing on each side with 1/4 patch panels and then just modifying their contours and their mounting points instead of following the stock lines, give them come curves at the center of the wheel opening, removing the lip and radius from the opening at the well then forming it out that way. Still undecided on how or what yet. I need to do a bit more tearing into the driver's side rot to make sure I don't head down a path for nothing and then need to replace a bunch from work I've already done. Not into wasting time, y'know :p

When completed, it should look more like this:
Car Vehicle Land vehicle Wheel Tire
 
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