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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I recently purchased a 10" buffer and decided to polish up the trunk to get that nice shine... but it just has a haze to it now... im wondering what I could be doing wrong:
2800 opm buffer
wool buffer cloth they call it a polishing bonnet I guess
tutle wax brand polishing compound.

I shoot the polishing compound and put a Z pattern on a small surface, placed buffer on the Z and rubbed it around (to avoid splatter), started buffer up and moved in a up down motion in the 2ftx2ft area, then back and forth, i applied light pressure to begin, and then let up and had the weight of the buffer do the rest, i continued the up down back forth motion until done.

but instead of having that sheek shine its just hazed... is there another product i put over the polish to get a great shine... or do i polish longer?

This is of course my first time, any advice would be appreciated!!! Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #2
maybe i found my answer. The polish will make it hazey, but then you use a different bonnet, a terry bonnet? kinda feels like a normal towel or something and then you just use that to get the shine? same way as I did before but this time no compound just dry?
 

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aurora 3000

I use aurora 3000 hand glaze to finish bringing the shine back after buffing. It works very well.
 

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slow the buffer down to about 1800 rpm.
You need to follow up with a foam or microfiber pad and
a machine polish or glaze. Not dry and not with compound.
I follow with a hand polish after that.
 

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buffer speed

If you are inexperience with the buffer, I recommend you keep the speed low, expecially with a wool pad. I generally work with 1200 to 1400 if using the wool. It is the most agressive and will cut off a lot of paint and generate a lot of heat if you are not careful. Be sure to keep it off of any edges and keep the buffer moving. Make sure to keep it moist. I have a mist bottle of water and use it often with the posishing compound. Use a good fine foam pad and glaze to finish with the buffer. There are many good waxes to finish by hand after the buffing. I use a 3M polishing compound followed by Mothers sealer/glaze. For my black and dark colors I use and recommend Zaino if it is a showcar.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
^ Deff. not a show car! :) but I dont have an adjustable speed buffer... mine just sits at 2800, i didnt cut through the paint, just kept it moving at a decent speed. I read around alittle more and found that alot of people have luck with swirl removal... so i picked up some and it actually works pretty well... so i guess i got my problem solved... Though if i had more money id opt to get it done professionally cause doing it yourself sucks!!!
 

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You are correct. Your problem is you are using a grinder not a buffer. A buffer has adjustable speed and you can adjust depending on the compound you are using and go to a higher speed with a glaze. I would recomment a sponge type buffer pad for your final swirl mark removing. Also, it is very important to clean all compound off the paint before you change to a different grit or swirl mark remover so you don't contaminate the foam pad with compound. You may also want to use a spash of water to help create heat , but be careful.

If you are still having problems you may be buffing a low quality paint like Nason single stage paint or a paint that was not mixed properly and the paint may be soft. Paint has a hard outer shell and can be somewhat softer on the inner if it is not top quality paint.


good luck
 

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I have an ingersoll rand buffer, not adjustable speed, that would be nice. Its not a high rpm but doesnt bog down either so you really gotta keep it moving. Two worst things while buffing. Heat and dwelling. Watch the edges and keep yer water bottle in action. The water isnt a coolant but a lubricator. Got to keep the grit in emulsion with water, other wise its just a rock swirling around. JR
 
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