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G Day all, Whats the opinions on using a zinc break in oil on a new motor? Some say no ....dont need it. Some say yes a must. No synthic oil. Any thing helpful on a new cam and lifters? Thanks
 

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1970 Nova SS 350 Brandon, MS
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If you use it and don't need it, no problem.
If you need it and don't use it...HUGE expensive problem!

I would use it.


The last 3 engines I built had break-in oil for the first 30 minutes, oil/filter change, and then more break-in oil for the next 100 miles. One of the 3 was a roller cam engine (4 cyl in a 97 S10). After the break-in, I changed oil/filter again and used VR1 for the flat-tappet engines and cheap conventional oil for the S10.
 

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What oil would you recomend for break in...and after? Tks I was told a Quality non deturdgent 10/30?
 

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What kind of cam is in it? For rollers I just start it on rotella 15/40 oil.
 

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I started mine up on brad penn 10-40 semi synthetic. Have used brad penn on a few engine builds with no issues. Rotella is another good option.
 

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My flat tappet 454 was broken in on a dyno. I left it to the pro’s discretion. He used Lucas high zinc break-in oil.

When I broke in my roller cammed ZZ4 350 I used Castrol GTX 10W40.

The roller cam made for an easy break-in of the 350 so I didn’t panic about it. The flat tappet cam in the 454 was given premium treatment to make sure we didn’t hurt it in the process.
 

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Definitely use a break in oil for a flat tappet camshaft. Flat tappet cams need a high level of ZDDP to protect the mating surfaces of the lifter and lobe. Without it, toasto moto!
The engine also needs to be kept at or a little above 2,000 RPMs for the first 20 minutes of run time.

Roller camshafts, break in oil is a solid idea and i personally use it, although i wouldnt label it as critical.
 

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I generally run Mobil 1 plus a zinc additive.

However, with the 350 in the 4-door, the shop that did the machine work and short block assembly told me they wouldn't warranty anything unless break-in was done with Joe Gibbs SAE 30 race oil. (Now branded as "DRIVEN".) They bought it by the truckload, and sold it substantially below retail.
Their warranty was short and didn't cover much on a short block, but it wasn't going to hurt me to do it.

Their required method was:
20-30 minutes of run time with cam break-in procedures, check the drain plug and filter for issues (but a full oil change not required, if no issues found).
Change the oil and check the filter at 100 miles.
Change the oil and check the filter at 600 miles.
From there on, oil choice was at my discretion and at normal intervals.
 

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1970 Nova SS 350 Brandon, MS
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What oil would you recomend for break in...and after? Tks I was told a Quality non deturdgent 10/30?
I used Comp Cams 10w30 break-in oil. Afterwards, Valvoline VR1 20w50 for flat tappet and anything you want for roller. Thats just my viewpoint.
 

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I strongly advise the break in oil, learned that the hard way. Driven BR is very popular. I run the Driven HR-4 10/30 in my car.
 

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I have an engine that had built and put around 2500 miles on it. Pulled it from my truck and went with a 5.3 LS engine in the truck. The engine is going in my 64 Nova. The short block remains the same but with a roller cam. New heads and a different intake. Is break in oil needed for the roller cam in this case.?
 

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1970 Nova SS 350 Brandon, MS
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I have an engine that had built and put around 2500 miles on it. Pulled it from my truck and went with a 5.3 LS engine in the truck. The engine is going in my 64 Nova. The short block remains the same but with a roller cam. New heads and a different intake. Is break in oil needed for the roller cam in this case.?
I would say no. It wouldnt hurt it but doesnt really “need” it. The rings are already seated and the roller cam/lifters dont need to establish any “wear patterns”.
 

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I used royal purple 10w30 mineral break in oil in my 383 it’s just always good assurance. I hear people that don’t but. I just like to be cautious and use break in oil on any of my builds.
 
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