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Q1:

I have good pressure (30 at idle, 55 when revved)...but...I'm not getting much/any oil out of the pushrods. There are oil stains inside the top of the VC, but...the pockets around the head studs have no oil pooled there. Seems like there should be...

After reading some stuff here, I'm wondering if I got the plug under the rear main cap installed properly. I'm positive that I installed it, just not sure if I seated it flush with the top edge, or drove it all the way as far as it would go. What is the proper installation for this plug? I suspect I'll need to drop the pan and take a look at it.

Anything else I should check as an explanation as to why the top end isn't getting oil?

Q2:

I have several lowe head studs that are leaking...and I'm nervous that the ones I can't see are leaking too. Much suckage, as I think this will require taking off the headers (at least) to fix. I'm assuming I need to remove and re-goop all the studs and keep my fingers crossed? I flirted with the idea of throwing in a bottle of radiator stop-leak, but...haven't gotten that desperate...yet.

I know, I know...I wanted studs. Seriously considering replacing the studs with bolts at this point as long as I have to go through the hassle of taking them all out anyway.

Can I take them out one at a time and then retorque each one individually?

<sigh> Between these two issues, I'm holding off on running this more than the 5 minutes it's been going so far until I get this fixed. Which is too bad, because it sounds wicked...can't wait to get it on the road...
 

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Common problem.
A thread sealer is needed when studs installed into the block.

You in most cases use the sealer on washer & nuts to correct the current problem. If the outside ones are leaking, you can bet the inside ones are also.


 

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Yep, I used the ARP sealant on all of the studs when they were installed...per the instructions. Still leaking...
"ASSUMING!!! On MY PART!!!"

ARP supplies a assembly lubricant. Not a sealer.
A sealer is need when installing studs to the block. The ARP assembley lubricant is used at the nut & washer area.

Al
 

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This is what I used...both when installing the studs into the block and under/on the washer/nut/threads (both per-instructions)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ARP-100-9904

I feel your pain.

I used a standard Teflon sealer they recommend (not their's) the first time I installed them. leaked like a sieve.
PMO!!!

I used the Loctite and had no problem. it' looks like the Teflon sealer but is not as thin, has some kind of adhesion quality.

Al
 

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Yes they will leak were the hole cleaned with a bottom tap or thread chaser bottom tap will remove material and they leak up around the thread. I tryed all types of sealer. went back to head bolts. One person on yellowbullet.com told to use Moroso ceramx sealer in the radaitor. and yes i did do one head bolt at a time and worked out OK. Oh and by they do leak under the valve cover also.
 

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Just curious but did you think of using loctite 242 threadlocker or even the red loctite 262, ive used these on all kinds of stuff being a machine tool pipefitter working with hydralics and i know the red 262 will seal/lock anything.:)
 

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All this fancy stuff.. Permatex #2 never had a head stud leak... or Permatex Ultra Black.....

I like the #2 because its easy to clean after disassembly...

A close friend likes the Ultra Black from Permatex...

Both will work flawlessly .. if threads are clean...
 

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factory uses it

i wouldn't be too scared of using " stop leak " . I watched a documentary about car production , i think it was at a GM plant , they used it on new engines. I don't like the stuff either , but hey if car companies use something similar ,,,

Did you use oil restictors in the lifter gallery plugs in the rear ?? Maybe there is a blockage there. I used them but without the O-ring on them so it wouldn't restrict flow as much. Just my .02. I think i'd start it without the valve covers on and see whats going on.
 

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Head Bolt / Stud sealer

I feel your pain.

I used a standard Teflon sealer they recommend (not their's) the first time I installed them. leaked like a sieve.
PMO!!!

I used the Loctite and had no problem. it' looks like the Teflon sealer but is not as thin, has some kind of adhesion quality.

Al
I have an interest in this thread as well. Ive built 3 mtrs for my 62.I,m on my 4th.A 406 using a roller cam ,6"rods etc,just an improvement in the 383,s Ive built in the past. I have never had a leak issue. I mention those as I,ve always used a TFE Type Teflon paste,or new ARP bolts that come pre coated. Im using my old ARP bolts this time around. Am concerned as to proper sealant to reseal the bolts this time.I purchased what all of the racers told me they use,which is (Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound). Any one familuar with this material.I had never heard of it. Im not convinced,as it says to coat both surfaces and let dry before using..?? Which cant be done in this case. I would like to hear reccomendations one more time around please.Thanks..Roger
 

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I have always used ultra grey silicone ,and NEVER had any problems !! After hearing about so many people using the arp sealer .......i tried it ....... BIG MISTAKE ,,they leaked something fierce !!!! , So i removed one at a time ,sprayed some carb cleaner and then reinstalled with ultra grey ! NO MORE PROBLEMS ..

thats my story .
 

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Head bolt sealer

I have always used ultra grey silicone ,and NEVER had any problems !! After hearing about so many people using the arp sealer .......i tried it ....... BIG MISTAKE ,,they leaked something fierce !!!! , So i removed one at a time ,sprayed some carb cleaner and then reinstalled with ultra grey ! NO MORE PROBLEMS ..

thats my story .
Thanks, yeah was thinking I should just use a high temp silicone and not worry about it. Thanks,for convincing me :)
 

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(Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound).
I can tell you this! yes that stuff will seal.

You can bet your "A" on that!

But if you think Loctite on threads is bad! You have not seen anything!

I hope what ever you put together with that Indian head, you never take apart! because I do not think you will get it apart!

that stuff is mean!

IMO!

Al
 

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Head bolt sealer

Boy am I glad you let me know that.C##P LOL,I had decided to use the high temp silicon any way, But thats a good thing to know. I found out that its the roudy round racers that use that Indian Head compound. I wonder what they do? Maybe they are using it on oily bolts..Cause most of those guys ,tear down their mtrs frequently. Well I appreciate the heads up. If I ever want something stuck good,now I know Ive got the stuff :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Q1: I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, I might try the stop leak first and see if that helps. Otherwise... I'm not crazy about the loctite or gasket shellac, because I want to be able to get 'em apart again if I need to. On the other hand...I want it to seal. Permatex #2 is looking like the best option at this point. Man this is going to suck to get 'em back out again, the ones under the VC won't be too bad, but the ones under the headers...ugh.

Q2: As for the oil issue, I still would like to know how far that plug under the rear main is supposed to be driven in. Flush with the cap mating surface? All the way down? I have threaded plugs in both ends of the long main lines, the front center one has a tiny hole in it for extra chain oiling. I know I have the one in the deck surface installed, the only one I'm unsure about is the one under the rear main cap. I know I installed it...just not sure how far.

I have no restrictors, or anything like that. Seems like I should have oil all over the place in there, and I just have a splash.
 

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Depth of rear seal oil plug

Q1: I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, I might try the stop leak first and see if that helps. Otherwise... I'm not crazy about the loctite or gasket shellac, because I want to be able to get 'em apart again if I need to. On the other hand...I want it to seal. Permatex #2 is looking like the best option at this point. Man this is going to suck to get 'em back out again, the ones under the VC won't be too bad, but the ones under the headers...ugh.

Q2: As for the oil issue, I still would like to know how far that plug under the rear main is supposed to be driven in. Flush with the cap mating surface? All the way down? I have threaded plugs in both ends of the long main lines, the front center one has a tiny hole in it for extra chain oiling. I know I have the one in the deck surface installed, the only one I'm unsure about is the one under the rear main cap. I know I installed it...just not sure how far.

I have no restrictors, or anything like that. Seems like I should have oil all over the place in there, and I just have a splash.
I can relate to your questions there.As I traded for my 400 block straight fresh from a machine shop. All pluges etc had been installed. Including a new oil plug for the rear main. I could see it was new.Every Shop I talked to said they never remove it cause its too hard to reinstall? Any way I was worried because I had googled info about it,and discovered the depth dim is critical,as it diverts oil from the filter port to the main galleys. I think the dim was around an 1". Any way after measuring a couple other blocks I had laying around and taking my air gun to it to see if air came out of the bearing holes as well as the oil filter hole, I decided it was good enough. Any way there is articles on it.If I saved it,I will post it,Other wise you can find it thru google. Roger
 

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Rear main oil plug

Q1: I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, I might try the stop leak first and see if that helps. Otherwise... I'm not crazy about the loctite or gasket shellac, because I want to be able to get 'em apart again if I need to. On the other hand...I want it to seal. Permatex #2 is looking like the best option at this point. Man this is going to suck to get 'em back out again, the ones under the VC won't be too bad, but the ones under the headers...ugh.

Q2: As for the oil issue, I still would like to know how far that plug under the rear main is supposed to be driven in. Flush with the cap mating surface? All the way down? I have threaded plugs in both ends of the long main lines, the front center one has a tiny hole in it for extra chain oiling. I know I have the one in the deck surface installed, the only one I'm unsure about is the one under the rear main cap. I know I installed it...just not sure how far.

I have no restrictors, or anything like that. Seems like I should have oil all over the place in there, and I just have a splash.
Here ya go, it doesnt sound good .. http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/192284/
 
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