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Discussion Starter #1
My car has been swapped previous to me owning it to front disk with booster set up. I had plans to re-route the brake lines as they don't allow valve cover to be removed as they are.
After looking at several Kits and shots of other cars, is that extra bracket between the firewall and booster actually required? It would sure make routing the lines a good bit cleaner if I could run them from the driver side ports on the master. I do not currently have a prop valve on this car, that's why my pedal seems to travel clear down to the floor from my understanding. 8.8 exploded rear with disk will be installed this summer/fall sometime.

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I don't have any close up pics or recent pics,. But, I had a cpp master/booster on my 66.
The booster had no bracket and sat flush against the firewall .
I have tall valve covers on my 406 and I could remove them with the booster in place.
 

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Removing any spacer that moved the brake booster will not be enough to clear a front brake line on the left side. The inner fender is too close. The front has to be on the right side. A very tight bend as it exits the master cylinder is needed. Very hard to do yourself. It may be better to buy a tight turn brake line that is pre-bent. On the rear brake port, you can switch the current right side connection to a left side to make clearance. To make things easier a more narrow master cylinder could be used but there could be an issue still with the front port being connected because of the inner fender. If it has dual ports then that would be the preferred one to get.
 

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I'm not sure it would make a difference, but a stock power brake setup doesn't have that extra bracket behind the booster.

Your lack of a proportioning valve is not what's letting your pedal go to the floor. I would recommend having one though.

My 67 has a stock power brake booster and master cylinder, along with a front disc brake conversion. The brakes work quite well. I did use a typical aftermarket combination valve along with the tubing and bracket that's sold with it. Works fine and clears everything. So if all else fails, get a repro 67 brake booster and master cylinder, along with a combination valve, hard lines, and bracket from CPP, Right Stuff, etc.
 

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I would recommend a Summit Racing 8 in vacuum dual booster and a 4 wheel Dice brake master Cylinder and prop vale tell them that you want the brake lines to be on the driver side of the master next to the finder. also tell them what rear brakes you are going to use. Also get the correct Rod and clevis needed for that Brake booster going to your Brake pedal assembly. Then you will have the correct length rod assembly. then you can buy new line and route them how you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Your lack of a proportioning valve is not what's letting your pedal go to the floor. I would recommend having one though.
Had me curious on this, I was under the impression the prop valve made the difference. Obviously I've misread. Did I get the prop valve and small chamber front reservoir purposes mixed up?
 
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