Brake line routing

423 Views 17 Replies 9 Participants Last post by 67 canso sd, 9 h ago

Hazcat

Discussion Starter · 14 d ago

While I've rebuilt brake systems on several cars by replacing brake lines and components, I've never built one from scratch until now. I thought that I remembered the stock brake line following floor contours, so I did the same when I ran the copper-nickel line to the rear.

As I tried to fill the lines (starting from the RR) with my vacuum pump, I couldn't get a solid flow. I used to work with leak detection systems in underground piping, and our bugaboo was flexible lines that had high spots, which could trap air and thereby "cushion" the pressure changes that the detectors looked for. Which I didn't think of at all while fabbing the lines, but looking up the path of my lines while I was pumping away, it was like a slap in the face, three stooges style ("Ya knucklehead!") - lots of "P-traps" along my lines! I'm wondering now if I should have brought the line out to the rocker right past the transmission cross member, run it level back to the old spring perch, then come back to the tee at the torque box. BTW, I used two flex lines on the rear to keep the axle housing clean.
So, should I buy another roll of Cu-Ni hardline and replumb, or do I have another problem that I don't see?
Thanks

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67 canso sd

· #2 · 14 d ago

Did you bench bleed the MC? Press is press it shouldn’t matter the route….
I ran mine along the rocker then over around the torque box. Cracked the rr bleeder and let it gravity bleed.. then i could start building pressure. Had no issues.

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Hazcat

Discussion Starter · #3 · 14 d ago

Yes, I bench bled it, but I think the gravity feed is a good idea for getting the fluid down there fast. My little hand pump seems a bit undersized for the effort. I'll give that a try.

Reactions: 1

Hazcat

Discussion Starter · #4 · 13 d ago

Well, no dice through the bleeders on the calipers. I'm going to order some new line and run it down the rocker where the stock one went. Lessons learned.

67 canso sd

· #5 · 13 d ago

Do you have fluid coming out of your portioning valve?

Ernietech

· #6 · 13 d ago

67 canso sd said:
Do you have fluid coming out of your portioning valve?

It takes a while to get the fluid to gravity bleed when everything is empty. Be patient. I don't see a real.problem with your line routing. Open the right rear bleeder remove the master cyl cover so the fluid will flow faster. After the R rear bleeds move to L rear etc. You can also close all bleeders put the master cover on and use your hand slowly pump the pedal several times slowly to help fill the system. Then proceed opening r rear etc. After the rears bleed again slowly pump the pedal to fill the calipers. It takes a bit But You should be starting to get a pedal slowly. Ernie.

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67 canso sd

· #7 · 13 d ago

I agree Ernie, i should have mentioned to be patient. OP can always crack the porp valve connection once you have fluid there, you know it’s is on its way.

Sbond22

· #8 · 12 d ago

Your bugaboo is most likely comparing your open underground piping experience (apples) to your closed brake system (oranges).

Hazcat

Discussion Starter · #9 · 12 d ago

Sbond22 said:
Your bugaboo is most likely comparing your open underground piping experience (apples) to your closed brake system (oranges).

The underground fuel piping was a closed system - electronic line leak detectors watched the fuel pressure decay curve through a bleed jet after the pumps stopped. A tight system had a consistent and predictable curve, but if you had a bubble in the line the expansion of the bubble would be seen as fault. Similar to brake system, where your foot is the detector, and spongy pedal tells your brain something's wrong. Clearing bubbles was just a matter of sending a high flow through the system, but my little hand pump just ain't doing it for the brake lines! I'm going to be a bit more patient, though, and do some foot pumping to blast those bubbles down the line....

Qwk

· #10 · 12 d ago

Following!!

bruinfan1966

· #11 · 12 d ago

As long as the master cylinder is the highest point in the system (it is) you will eventually bleed it. Do not rip it apart, it looks really nice, if it were me after bench bleeding the master (you did) I would try the gravity method, which most likely will not work with a new dry system that you are putting fluid through. I would then try pressure bleeding with a helper in the car pumping. My personal method is the Motive power bleeder with the right adapter for your application but they are pricey and probably not worth buying unless you will use it a lot. Try the 2 person method, be patient, and keep the master cylinder topped while bleeding it.

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Hazcat

Discussion Starter · #12 · 2 d ago

Still frustrated by this puppy, and I'm thinking that pressure bleeding is the way to go. There's got to be a stubborn bubble trapped somewhere down there I'm going to tap into my inner MacGyver and try forcing fluid down the system from through the line out of the prop valve with one of the clean 50ml syringes I have for cc'ing heads. I've also ordered some speed bleeders to replace my lovely and patient wife. I'll keep you appraised!

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snolan

· #13 · 2 d ago (Edited)

Products | Brake Bleeder Products | Brake Bleeder Kit | Brake Bleeder

Products: Find one-man brake bleeder kits, brake fluid testing, reverse brake bleeders and more at Phoenix Systems For brake bleeding and other vehicle maintenance.

www.brakebleeder.com

Brake Bleeding Methods | Reverse Brake Bleeding Methods | Pressure Bleeding

There are several brake bleeding methods you can perform. Phoenix Systems breaks down the brake bleeding methods so you can choose the best fit for you.

www.brakebleeder.com

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Hazcat

Discussion Starter · #14 · 1 d ago

snolan said:
Products | Brake Bleeder Products | Brake Bleeder Kit | Brake Bleeder

Products: Find one-man brake bleeder kits, brake fluid testing, reverse brake bleeders and more at Phoenix Systems For brake bleeding and other vehicle maintenance.

www.brakebleeder.com

Brake Bleeding Methods | Reverse Brake Bleeding Methods | Pressure Bleeding

There are several brake bleeding methods you can perform. Phoenix Systems breaks down the brake bleeding methods so you can choose the best fit for you.

www.brakebleeder.com

I'm ordering one of the basic units. It'll be worth the time I will be saving!!!
Thanks, you rock!!!!

doerf

· #15 · 1 d ago

Hazcat said:
Still frustrated by this puppy, and I'm thinking that pressure bleeding is the way to go.

I installed discs on the front of my 63, which required rerouting brake lines going from single to tandem master
I bled and bled and bled and could not get pasts soft pedal that went all the way to the floor

bought a pressure system that attaches to master
had it done on my own in minutes, brakes are great no issues in 500+ miles

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mc1984ss

· #16 · 23 h ago

Which pressure bleeder did you buy?

doerf

· #17 · 22 h ago

there are probably better ones
the chains and threaded hooks are pretty stupid
I used a C clamp to hold top plate to master
but you get the idea, main thing is it pushes fluid into master

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67 canso sd

· #18 · 9 h ago

The pressure bleeders do work, some can be kinda finicky to get set proper on the MC. To Hazcat.. the op, are you sure your MC is properly bench bled? Are you getting fluid out of the prop valve with gravity bleeding…if your not… that is your answer.. save your $ put it somewhere else.

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