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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #1
Does the power brakes take a different brake light switch? The pedal sits about a inch to an inch and a half lower than the manual brake pedal and my brake light switch will not make contact even when adjusted all the way out.
 

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Can't say for sure on the 68 setup, but on my 73 and 74 the brake pedal connects to a clevis and pivot pin that then attaches to a threaded rod going towards the master cylinder or brake booster. This threaded rod also has a jamb nut on it.
If your setup is the same, take the pivot pin out, loosen the jamb nut and after dropping the clevis to clear the brake pedal arm (if it will drop enough), unthread the clevis some then make sure the clevis is square to the pivot pin, tighten the jamb nut against it, and then reattach the pedal arm pivot pin and retainer clip. If you have it threaded out enough then you should be able to then adjust the brake switch to this new setting.
What you have to watch out for is having enough threads still engaged into this threaded rod. You dont want one or two threads being engaged but have it fully threaded through flush or out a little (hope that makes sense). I had a car years ago with too short of a threaded rod and for safety it had to be changed so there was good thread engagement into the clevis portion. With a thread or two engaged it could shift or bend making the braking system fail. Remember the pivot points and the design makes a couple of pounds of pressure on the pedal pad produce more pressure onto this rod higher up so you don't want things deflecting or breaking.

Another possibility is maybe the rod needs to be changed and is different between manual brakes and power brakes.

If the clevis cannot be dropped down enough to clear the brake pedal arm then loosen the booster or brake resevoir off of the firewall to get enough play to adjust it out. You could also drop the pedal out of the way by removing it's retainer clip and pivot pin.

Jim
 
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