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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #1
All I have left on my power disc brake conversion is to install the calipers and bleed the brakes. I have replaced all the brakes lines in the front and all the way to the axel in the rear. What is the best way to bleed the brakes?
 

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You mentioned replacing the lines. Yeah, been there, done that. :bored:

The only way to get a good bleed after replacing lines is the tried and true two man method. One guy presses the brake pedal to the floor, the other guy cracks open the bleeder. Close the bleeder, then the guy manning the pedal can let it up off the floor. Repeat... a lot... check your fluid the whole time. Don't let the fluid run dry!

Have fun. This is a job for the dogs. :( But much easier with a helper.

PS - I assume you have bench bled you master cylinder. Always bench bleed the MC first.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I bench bleed the master before installing it. SInce it is power brakes do you need to have the car running while your buddy pumps the brake?
 

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With new lines I like to use a vacuum unit that runs off compresed air and start at the point farthes away from the master and work my way back. (otherwise you will be pumping that pedal for ever to fill all the lines). Then repeat the process with the two man system just to make sure.
 

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I too believe someone's foot is going to get mighty tired if you pump the brakes. I would use a vacuum of some sort. Start with the passenger side's rear brake, then the drivers side rear, then the passenger side front and finally the driver's side front. You can buy a vacuum kit at a parts store and do it that way. Just remember to have someone add brake fluid while you're bleeding them. You'll be surprised how fast the fluid drops in the master cylinder. You can bleed all four corners in about 30 minutes with the vacuum. One thing you don't want to do, DO NOT reuse the fluid you drain from the four corners. No matter how clean it may look, don't do it.

Good luck!
Jim Smith
 

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Guys - I speak from experience near and dear to my heart.

Vacuum bleeding is just not enough. :( I tried using a venturi bleeder (hooks up to shop air) and also a Mightyvac on my new lines. It just didn't pull enough vacuum to get the fluid moving. :no: Hydraulic tension is a PITA! :mad:

Plus... you don't need to buy any tools with the 2 man method. :) My wife did all the stomping on the pedal, so you don't need to be He-Man or a Tour de France superstar to be a good helper.
 

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I personally run a tube from the bleeder screw in to a clear soda bottle and pump till bubbles stop coming, don't start with an empty bottle the fluid in the bottle will prevent it from sucking air back into the line still takes 2 people one to watch the bottle, when bubbles stop tighten bleeder move to next bleeder. like previously stated don't let MC go empty, whole job in 15 minutes
 

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Guys - I speak from experience near and dear to my heart.

Vacuum bleeding is just not enough. :( I tried using a venturi bleeder (hooks up to shop air) and also a Mightyvac on my new lines. It just didn't pull enough vacuum to get the fluid moving. :no: Hydraulic tension is a PITA! :mad:

Plus... you don't need to buy any tools with the 2 man method. :) My wife did all the stomping on the pedal, so you don't need to be He-Man or a Tour de France superstar to be a good helper.
It worked great for my car, it seemed to take for ever pumping them, so I gave up and put the vacuum on it 2 minutes later they were bled. The bottle set up as mentioned above is a good one too.:yes:
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #11
I got the rotors and calipers on but ran out of steam to try any brake bleeding today. 69LT1 sounds like you used the one man one woman method. I got the wheels back on the car and set it back on the ground. It is not quite sitting level in the front. I am hoping it will settle out even. Any ideas? I put new coils springs, a-arm bushings and tie rod ends as well.

 

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I recently bought the phoenix brake bleeder. Its a hand pump which you can use it as a vacum or push the fluid up and out through the MC. Haven't been able to check how it came out yet Because I need a power steering pump in conjunction wih the hydroboost...
 

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I use speed bleeders on the front disc and they work good. I have drums on the back so the 2 person method is used for them.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #16
Chevy II back on the road

I used the hose in a bottle of fluid to get most of the air out and finished it off with the old fashion 2 man pump/hold/release method to get the last bit of air out. I used 1.5" drop coils. I did not want to use the drop spindles becuase I did not want to set my tires out. This CPP power disk brake conversion uses the orginal spindles. It only has a 10.75" disk but there is plenty of braking power there for how I drive the car.



I also replaced all the a-arm bushings, tie rods and ball joints. I set the tie rods the same length as the originals and put the exact amount of shims back in the upper a-arms. It drives pretty darn straight. I was hoping it would so I could put a 100 or so miles on it before I get the front end aligned.
 
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