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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
With all the talk on both of the Nova sites about economical paint jobs I was wondering if anyone has tried the line of paint from the Tractor Supply Company(TSC) called BPS (Best Paint Sold) made by Valspar? The Tractor and Implement enamel comes in 25 colors while the Truck and Trailer enamel comes in about 6 colors. There is a hardener avalable for it also. The paint is less then 23 bucks a gallon and the hardener is less then 10 bucks a continer. Now I havent looked into what you could use as a thinner(reducer) but I'm sure for well under 100 bucks a person could spray a durable and shinny finish on their car :) Looks like it might be a good economical source for paint...whadda you guys think?





Tractor and Implement Enamel:

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=4&paID=1032&sonID=456&productID=52



Truck and Trailer Enamel:

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=2&paID=1018&sonID=468&productID=9167



Hardener:

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=4&paID=1032&sonID=456&page=1&productID=9169
 

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This is an enamel or Alkyd Enamel. It is not the Acrylic Enamel that we would use for cars. This technology would be 60's era and does not hold it's shine very well. It has terrible resistance to gas.
NOT durable or shiny as you had hoped.
If you use it without hardener it is far worse, you'll swear it faded by the next morning. I won't use it even to paint tractors, some of the Acrylic Enamels from OMNI, NASON, etc are only slightly higher priced and are much better.
I've used this with hardener in low gloss black to do frames and suspensions, seems to work good there.
It's also good for shop equipment where you just want a color and aren't concerned about surface finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TechNova said:
This is an enamel or Alkyd Enamel. It is not the Acrylic Enamel that we would use for cars. This technology would be 60's era and does not hold it's shine very well. It has terrible resistance to gas.
NOT durable or shiny as you had hoped.
If you use it without hardener it is far worse, you'll swear it faded by the next morning. I won't use it even to paint tractors, some of the Acrylic Enamels from OMNI, NASON, etc are only slightly higher priced and are much better.
I've used this with hardener in low gloss black to do frames and suspensions, seems to work good there.
It's also good for shop equipment where you just want a color and aren't concerned about surface finish.
Well Shoot....thank you for your input...much appreciated....so OMNI would be a much better choice?:)
 

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69NovaSS said:
Well Shoot....thank you for your input...much appreciated....so OMNI would be a much better choice?:)
Yes. I don't remember the code for the OMNI AE, but PPG also has a commercial line (CPC) that has an Acrylic Urethane coded AUE that is good and has good pricing. I think I got a gallon of black with hardener for $55. This would be a step better than an AE and alotta steps better than Enamel or Alkyd Enamel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
TechNova said:
Yes. I don't remember the code for the OMNI AE, but PPG also has a commercial line (CPC) that has an Acrylic Urethane coded AUE that is good and has good pricing. I think I got a gallon of black with hardener for $55. This would be a step better than an AE and alotta steps better than Enamel or Alkyd Enamel.

Cool info....thanks:)

For a third gen car if your painting everything, jambs, underside of hood, underside of trunk, etc, etc AND your using an HVLP gun is a gallon enough or do you need more?:confused:
 

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That's a question that strikes my curiosity as well. Having never painted a car before, how much paint is needed to do the job right.

Thanks.
 

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There are alot of variables, what is the transfer efficiency of your HVLP?, what is the efficiency of the painter? What is the mix ratio of the paint?
Are you using a sealer? a tinted sealer?

HVLP guns vary in how much sprayed material actually ends up on the car. The technique of the painter also varies, some guys waste more paint by their methods. Some times two coats will do under the trunk but you need three on the outside.
A gallon of one brand may yeild 1 1/2 gallons ready to spray (RTS). Another brand may only give you a gallon and a pint. Some paints are sold as a gallon with only 3 1/2 quarts in the can. The pint of hardener makes it a full gallon RTS.
One brand I used a few years ago on some equipment was way too thin if mixed by the label. I put in half the reducer which meant I didn't get as much RTS paint.
Some colors and some brands of paint do not cover as well as others so more paint may be needed. A sealer and preferably a tinted sealer will help get coverage with less paint.

I have never done a complete in single stage with an HVLP. By the time HVLP came along we were well into BC/CC. There is no comparison to how much it took to paint some of the tractors I've done, with tractors alot gets wasted as overspray because of all the nooks and crannies. I do know one gallon RTS will not do it. With conventional guns I used to get 1 1/2 gallons of Dupont Centari AE to do a complete with jambs. I forget what this yeilded RTS, probably 2 1/4 gallons RTS.

All that to basically tell you.... I don't know how much it will take.

Anyone else done it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
TechNova said:
I do know one gallon RTS will not do it. With conventional guns I used to get 1 1/2 gallons of Dupont Centari AE to do a complete with jambs. I forget what this yeilded RTS, probably 2 1/4 gallons RTS.
Thats the paint I like but the last time I sprayed it (in Canada mind you ) it was pretty pricey....I personally have never used an HVLP gun only the conventional type and your guesstimate on the amounts needed with a conventional gun to do the paint including jambs seems right on the money from what I remember...(however its been a few years now)......maybe I'll just stick with my conventional gun...:confused:
 

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paint

that is plenty of paint( a gallon)
usually i put on some old paint that i have laying around to base it out
i call it cover up paint
it covers all the primer and then start from there
most of the time if a paint store has mixed the wrong color for a cust thaey will have some of it laying around just ask and see if they do
most of the time they are glad to give it away
well anyway around here they do
just remember to set the air pressure to around 28 to 30
to start with and do a cover pass first
then come back and put your next coat on
i would do the inside first and then the outside
 

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My two cents....if you must insist on single satge. PPG has a GREAT new line out called "essentials" its the best single stage ive ever used, hands down. But then again, Ive only used it on antique tractors. The general rule of thumb is the same with EVERYTHING ELSE. You get what you pay for. Honestly, I would hate to see a guy put his time, money, and passion into something, then paint it with Single Stage. But thats only my humble opinion. I hope this doesnt piss off all of the single satge guys out there.
 

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Looks like it might be a good economical source for paint...whadda you guys think?
"Economical" is the key word there. It's not something I would even consider for any car I would own. But...it's your car and your $, so if you are comfortable with it, go for it. I wouldn't expect a whole lot as far as a quality paint job but you may be Ok with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
holly crap batman, three year old thread get dragged back from the dead....lol. It was just a question I had way back then. At the time many where talking about rustolium paint jobs etc. So I thought I would toss that out there. To see what people thought about it. :)
 
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