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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am gonna be putting POR15 and Dynamat down in my trunk next weekend and I would like to box it in but I have NO clue how to go about this.

Classic Industries sells a trunk box set but all it looks like is MDF board and you are supposed to upholster it yourself...and its like $175. I think I could measure and cut MDF myself but I have no idea how you make bracing and install it.

Anyone have pics of their completed boxed trunk and some ideas of how they did it?

Are their any good books that give ideas on this kind of stuff?

For those of you who have done yours did you make the panels easily removable for changing taillight bulbs and such?

ANY and ALL info would be greatly appreciated :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I have actually been searching for the last couple of days and I did see that thread but I couldnt find a thread where people had posted pics. I thought boxing the trunk was a pretty common thing but I cant seem to find very many pics. Hoping people who have done their trunk might be willing to post pics in here.
 

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if you can wait a few weeks i'm gonna be doing my wifes fairlane.
i'll take some pics of it. i'm not sure if i'm gonna box it completely or just lay down some wood on the bottom and have a wood "firewall" behind the back seat.
i might end up boxing the whole thing, but i don't want to lose the massive trunk.

do you have any pics of the kit you can buy?
i hate to say stuff like this, but sometimes if you can't picture it in your head. you might not be able to do it.
the hard part is figuring how to make it easy to remove, but secure enough to stay in place over bumps and stuff.

mdf and particle board is cheap enough to make a few mistakes, you can get a 1/2" sheet here for about $10.
so even if you mess up 10 times it's gonna be cheaper than the kit you could buy.
also it allows you to do custom things. really doing stuff like this you can do it how ever you want.
here are a few pics i found on google images



i also remember one of the guys here had a pic of one. it was in a fuel cell thread. i can't remember who it was or where it was.
i think it was a blue nova with a fuel cell in the trunk

good luck, if i finish sooner than planned i'll post some pics
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey thanks for the reply VegasMike. Here is a pic of the one sold by Classic:



The first pic you posted looks like maybe there are knobs on the sides so maybe those are on hinges and you can lay them flat to open them? That would certainly work if I could do that to the taillight access panel as well. That first pic is pretty much what I wanted to do.

When you complete yours if you could post pics that would be excellent! Any ideas are appreciated :D
 

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yeah no problem, i might not be making sides to the box, just cause that would cut off a ton of the trunk space on our fairlane. about a foot on each side would be gone.
also the side that is where the hinges go will be moved towards the seat a little more. we will be hiding a sub woofer and amp between the back seat and that piece of wood.
ours isn't going to be any show quality stuff, just something to keep the grocery bags from ripping while they slide across the metal trunk pan.
 

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Just finished this project last week. The back wall is actually a "face plate" attached to the front of the subwoofer box behind the wall. The amplifiers are also hidden behind the wall. I was originally going to cover the walls with vinyl, but didn't like the way it looked so I went with the carpet instead.

 

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Just finished this project last week. The back wall is actually a "face plate" attached to the front of the subwoofer box behind the wall. The amplifiers are also hidden behind the wall. I was originally going to cover the walls with vinyl, but didn't like the way it looked so I went with the carpet instead.

wow, that looks really nice! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just finished this project last week. The back wall is actually a "face plate" attached to the front of the subwoofer box behind the wall. The amplifiers are also hidden behind the wall. I was originally going to cover the walls with vinyl, but didn't like the way it looked so I went with the carpet instead.

Looks great! Do you have any pics on how the side walls and taillight panel are attached? Also is the floor panel just floating or is it screwed down? If you could give me some info and/or pics on how its installed I would REALLY appreciate it
 

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I boxed in the trunk of my 77 a few years ago. I'm sorry I don't have any current pics, and I am currently in the process of re-doing it, so I may have some pics in a month or two.

Here's what I did, though. I bought some lightweight board material at Lowes, I don't know what the stuff's actual name is, but we always called it peg board without the peg holes. It's about 1/8" thick, but is rigid enough to support itself vertically and horizontally.

We simply cut the patterns we needed out of cardboard, transferred them to the peg board, and cut them out. Once all of the shapes were right, I installed several two piece spring clips around the inner edge of the 1/4s, the forward trunk overhang, and along the trunk floor. These clips can be picked up in the hardware section at Lowes, and they look just like a spring clip used to latch a cabinet (2 rollers on each side, with a wedge shaped clip fitting between the rollers). Some of these I was able to screw into place, and where I lacked sheet metal I made brackets and epoxyed them into place. Remember, these things aren't really supporting any weight other than their own - you don't need a lot to secure them.

Eventually I covered them in black leather, and installed interior lights from Billet Specialties that worked off a trunk battery and hidden switch. It really turned out very nice. The only part I was unhappy with was the trunk floor, because I covered the floor as it was and did not use a flat panel - a mistake I will not make the 2nd time around.

Sorry for the lack of pics, but hopefully my description will help some. This is a bit of a time intensive project, but well worth it and believe me you can do this for A LOT less than the $175 that C/I wants for their panels.

J
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Amazing post Perple76 and exactly the kind of info I was after. Never thought about those spring clips but with there being no weight I could definitely see that working. And if I installed a floor board I wouldnt even have to drill them into the sheet metal.

If you find or take pics they would be greatly appreciated but that info is awesome. Thanks!
 

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Looks great! Do you have any pics on how the side walls and taillight panel are attached? Also is the floor panel just floating or is it screwed down? If you could give me some info and/or pics on how its installed I would REALLY appreciate it
I actually made the panels a few years ago (one of my bright ideas that got put on the back burner). I used 1/8" masonite board (I think that is what it is called) kind of looks like cardboard, but more rigid and darker...like someone else said here it is like the pegboard without the holes) I also got mine at Lowes. I used cardboard to mock up some templates and then trimed until I had a good fit. I still need to put in some bracing behind the side panels, but after I put the carpet on the floor (carpet is on the floar, no bottom panel there) and covered the panels, they fit really tight and so far haven't moved. I did cover the trunk with a coat of POR-15. I may add some dynamat in the future as well.


 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I actually made the panels a few years ago (one of my bright ideas that got put on the back burner). I used 1/8" masonite board (I think that is what it is called) kind of looks like cardboard, but more rigid and darker...like someone else said here it is like the pegboard without the holes) I also got mine at Lowes. I used cardboard to mock up some templates and then trimed until I had a good fit. I still need to put in some bracing behind the side panels, but after I put the carpet on the floor (carpet is on the floar, no bottom panel there) and covered the panels, they fit really tight and so far haven't moved. I did cover the trunk with a coat of POR-15. I may add some dynamat in the future as well.
So it looks like you dont have a panel up against the taillights which is what I may do as well so I always have easy access to change bulbs and such.

As far as the side panels though, are they just wedged into place then? You said after covering them they fit really tight so they are screwed it or anything?

I need to head to Lowe's to take a look at the boards you guys are talking about so I can start fooling around with it :D
 

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So it looks like you dont have a panel up against the taillights which is what I may do as well so I always have easy access to change bulbs and such.

As far as the side panels though, are they just wedged into place then? You said after covering them they fit really tight so they are screwed it or anything?

I need to head to Lowe's to take a look at the boards you guys are talking about so I can start fooling around with it :D
The side panels go in first and are not fastened yet. I am going to tinker around a bit to figure out a way to secure them more. Rite now they are just kind of wedged into place, but they fit tight enough that they do not move. The whole back panel is attatched to the subwoofer enclosure and goes in last. The only bad part is I have to take it out partially so I can remove the side panels to get to the tailights, I may try out some other ideas to remedy this in the future. I would kind of like to use the area behind these panels for storage of cleaning supplies.
 

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I did use the spring clips and they were very helpful on the panel underneath the rear glass. On the 1/4 panels, my panels were like some others have said - a tight fit. I still used the spring clips here too, but it was such a snug fit that they probably weren't necessary.

I used clips on the top and bottoms, but if your panels fit snuggly enough you could probably get away with just installing the clips at the top and not screw them into the bottom, but that's just a guess. I know some guys get squeamish about screwing/drilling into their trunk floors, especially if they are in good shape.

I guess my concern always was that even with a snug fit the car is still moving around, and the panels could shrink or expand with temperature and humidity, so I secured them top and bottom just in case.

Probably overkill.

I'm still looking for some trunk pictures. I'm kicking myself for not taking more when I first got this project done. I WILL post some, though, when I get to that part of the project this time around. Check my build thread out from time to time, that's where I'd post them up.

J
 

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I recently saw a pro street Duster at a car show with a custom trunk enclosure, and was curious as to how it was installed, and the guy was good enough to show me. Using 1/8" tempered masonite (1/4" is too heavy) he cut his shapes using the cardboard patterns ( 5 pieces - trunk floor, left & right side, back of seat, and taillight panel) then covered all pieces with low pile rubberback red carpet, and glued them on. To start installation, he just placed the floor piece snugly in place. He then glued this wide velcro strip along the back edges of each side pieces. He then glued shaped blocks of hard foam on his rear inner left and right quarter panel walls (so that the carpeted side panels would stand straight up) and then glued the receiving velcro strip onto the foam blocks, and installed them. The last step was to glue the velcro to the back and taillight section, and install them. It looked great, and could be removed whenever he needed to do so. I'm thinking that I will do the same to my trunk.
 
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