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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First of all, I want to thank all you guys for even taking the time to read this post, let alone comment. This is my first engine-buildup, going in my beloved Nova 25 years in the making and I only want to do things ONCE and RIGHT! After researching many archived posts and doing my homework, this is what I come up with. If I am doing something wrong, please advise. Thanks

I determined I need the larger front seal. Am laying out my gasket strategy, think I have everything set up properly and wonder why one gasket has the blue face up and the other doesn't. Not sure it matters but figured it would be graphically symmetrical.



Figure I'll lay down the cork side gaskets first. Get them set in with a light smear of black adhesive. Timing cover intersection is nice and tight. Rear has some clearance. Wondering if it looks ok. Also, while you're looking at the front, let me know how the timing cover install appears. To me, I notice a slight wave along the side....wondering if its a potential leak.








I always knew about a 2 piece seal but never installed one and saw how it went. The rear main cap is on. My machinist did that. So I assume , one half of the seal is already in there. I just can't see any evidence of it though.
Anyway, I figure after the sides are down, I lay in the rubber seals with a neat glob at the 4 corners (especially at the rear, where it appears some of the rtv will actually ooze down BELOW the seal area...). I also heard about the seals needing to be installed in proper orientation, something about a lip. But I don't see anything like that on mine. I am figuring it was the other half the machinist did.







Milodon pump seems very well made and the milodon pickup came with some interesting instructions....manufacturer does NOT recommend welding. As far as the supplemental retainer (as shown in the pics) I am really not sure I need it or want it. Nut coming loose could be a potential problem. What do you think?





Question on this plug. Got some sealant on there, got it in reallly snug but it sticks out a bit. Any torque specs for these or guidelines?


Other than that, I'm taking some members suggestions and redoing my frame with a glossy chassis black. I think its a good choice. Got some Cast Grey paint from Ground Up on the spindles and steering arms and I really like it. Nice deep metallic. Will contrast even more once the frame is shined up.


brakes coming up next!


Again, thanks for checking this out and helping me out!
 

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well every thing seems to be going right good job !!! you said something about the rear seal are you talking about the pan end seal or the rear main seal on the block. i would have use a one peice pan gasket i never really like the cork ( 4 peice ) gasket sets imo. but it will work as for the plug in the block so long as you put some rtv on it your good to go just tighten down tight. i sure hope thats not a high volume pump with a stock pan you could suck it dry you may want to look at a deep sump pan with matching pickup, i dont know how your going to use your motor so thats just thrown out there, front suspension looks good man your doing a good job good luck keep us posted oh and lets see some video when you get it fired up :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the encouragement chevyheavy. I inquired about both seals. I'm gonna install the pan seal. Figured the main seal has gotta already be in there. One piece gasket was thought about but I'm on a tight budget, already have these and they have worked pretty good for about 50 years. I'm building a mild 350, standard vol oil pump and stock pan.
 

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ok then your all good about the build i just didnt know about the pump but it looks like your doing fine and your right about them pan gaskets they have been around for a long time. good luck keep us posted :yes:
 

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Looking good, just follow the directions provided by the mfg. They've got lots of experience...good luck...


pops
 

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I install drain valves in the block side plugs, this way you can drain the block. just purchase 1/4 pipe drain valves. Easy found at parts store or hardware store.
 

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drain cocks are nice. Just be sure not to overtighten the oil pan bolts. Get on of those "how to rebuild your sbc" books or a motor's manual that has all the torque specs.
 

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Just to clairify the seal thing for you. There are two types of rear main seals, and both are in the rear main cap. A two peice seal is just that, 2 peices. One goes in the block, and one in the rear main cap. When you bolt the cap down they form the seal. A one peice seal is a single seal that is basically bolted to the rear of the block to seal the crank. The gaskets you're installing are just the pan gaskets and have nothing to do with the rear main seal. So you're doing just fine. It's the rear main that has an orientation to it. Just put a little RTV on those corners, and just snug the bolts up slowly when tightening down the pan and you're ready to go. If you see the gasket start to squish out from between the pan and block, you've got it too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks fellas. Yea, pretty much gonna go for it today. Just wondering if anything in the pics jumped out as a possible issue. Everything is lining up good, I guess I'm just being overly cautious cause I'd love if this motor went in, started right up and no leaks. Here's to wishful thinking:beer1:

I installed the oil pump and got my pickup as close as i can get to spec. Marked it with a silver sharpie and taking it this morning to an old timer machinist friend to install the pickup. He has several kent style but homemade tools for this job. I think I just may get the pan on and get her flipped over today. The method I used was an interesting one I learned from another motor guy. I put two small dabs of wheel bearing grease on the bottom of the pickup assembly. Then I set the oil pan on without the gasket. Adjust the pickup till I see a trace amount of the grease on the oil pan. Then I know it's about 1/8" from the pickup and the gasket will make up the difference. Seems logical to me.

The drain cocks seem like a good idea but I already have these plugs in. Guess it will be pretty easy to tell if they are in there far enough once I start her up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
a bit of a snag

Guys,

Got the oil pump assembly installed tonight. Everything went well till I spun the motor around and the rear counterweight bottomed out on the pump :eek: Either I did something wrong or this happens sometimes and the pump requires a shave. What would you do?







Also, I'm rethinking using what I have and splurging for the 1 piece felpro. Could be good insurance in case something else comes up and I need to pull the pan later. I had always figured a good clean job with the cork and rubber would be fine but I'd hate to have to drop the pan and worry about scraping sealant out and all that other stuff.

Finally, I had #1 at TDC (timing gear dots NOT in alignment) but then installed the cover and spun the motor a bit (keeping it lubed and fresh, I turn it now and again). I will search this out but maybe somebody knows an easy way to determine tdc compression with the timing cover on, I'd like to hear it.

thanks. here's the retainer... Bolt has a some locktight and is very snug. Should I check the torque? Was also thinking of "blunting down" the end of the bolt slightly so the nut could never fall off completely. Bad idea?
 

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Edit your post to make photos under each other and not side by side by side! PITA!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Last night they weren't like that. sorry, I'll try something now......

ok, stacked them like I did last night but now everything, the entire screen, text, every post is really wide now. not sure why. wierd.

edit: not sure how but my first post was all screwy too, and I hadn't touched it. Anyway, looks like we're back on track....for now. Thanks for checking this out. This is not the FIRST and I am sure this will not be the LAST snag.
 

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wow looks like alittle "clearancing" is required on that pump. Looks like the crank needs more of an angle cut on that counterweight. Just touch up the pump you'll be fine. I like that pickup retainer. The bolts only take like 20ft/lbs torque. If your worried about them backing out put some loctite on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yea, got some loktite on there and my snug has got to be in that ballpark so thanks. Since there's so much meat on that pump, think thats all I have to do....shave her down a lil' bit? Also trying to send this to Milodon. I find it hard to believe this can be a common occurance.

When guys are machining and balancing rotating assemblies, is it typical to bolt the pump on for a test fit?
 

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Also, I'm rethinking using what I have and splurging for the 1 piece felpro
If you want to do it once and do it right, bite the bullet and do the one piece pan gasket. You will be glad later on... no leaks, you cannot over tighten the pan bolts because they have steel spacers
Tg
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
If you want to do it once and do it right, bite the bullet and do the one piece pan gasket. You will be glad later on... no leaks, you cannot over tighten the pan bolts because they have steel spacers
Tg
DONE! thanks for the motivation.

ok, oil pan dilemma fixed. Now I just need to deal with that pesky pump.
 

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You probably already know this, so I apologize if I'm rehashing. Sneak up on your torque. In other words, if you have a 75 lb/ft torque requirement, make your first pass at say, 50 lb/ft, then the next pass at 60 lb/ft, then 70, then final torque and go around one more time to make sure you haven't missed anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You probably already know this, so I apologize if I'm rehashing. Sneak up on your torque. In other words, if you have a 75 lb/ft torque requirement, make your first pass at say, 50 lb/ft, then the next pass at 60 lb/ft, then 70, then final torque and go around one more time to make sure you haven't missed anything.

Absolutely Chuck. I always do that. But how will it help me here??? Pump is in position and isn't moving, neither is the crank.
 
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