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does any one have an opinion on the strength of bolt on subframe connecters versus the strength of weld on ones. Any input would be great.
 

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Weld on will offer the most strength but bolt on is a vast improvement over none at all. Guess the choice is up to you depending on what you want. I personally have bolt on and have no complaints but I don't abuse mine to the point where it would make any difference.
 

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You could get the best of both worlds by initially bolting on a set of connectors and then getting them welded on when time/money allow.

From what I've seen, there isn't much difference in the actual structure of the two different types of connectors. The only real difference is how they connect to the car at the end points.

With the bolt on connectors actually contacting more metal on the car before being welded in, might they actually be stronger at the end points than weld-on only connectors?
 

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That's what I did. I installed bolt-on connectors from Competition Engineering on my 63 vert. Then, about a year later, had them welded on when I had a new exhaust installed. The difference was noticable when I bolted them on and noticable again after they were welded. In addition, I had the exhaust shop jack the car up a couple inches in the middle of the door when they welded up the connectors in an attempt to square up the door openings to a degree. If I had it to do over though, I'd use the Gloabl West connectors and not the Comp pieces.

On a related note, I also noticed the car got stiffer when I replaced the rotted trunk floor with a new solid floor.

Dave
 

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weld ons, I think there easier to install then bolt on ones. I have home made ones. But I'm making new ones because I'm putting in new rear framerails.

Just my .02
 

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Don't you have to move the springs inboard on one or the other? And doesn't Chevy2Only have tubular connectors? Anyone tried those?
 

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Comp Engineering weld in connectors for 3rd gen Nova's require the use of their rear frame rails, which are designed to move the springs in.
 

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chevy2inreno said:
....... If I had it to do over though, I'd use the Gloabl West connectors ........

On a related note, I also noticed the car got stiffer when I replaced the rotted trunk floor with a new solid floor.
Dave
I used the Global West weld in connectors. Fit well, no interference with the floor or cables.
 

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I have a 63 convertible. Global West and Comp Engineering both told me their sub frame connectors will not fit my car. Has anyone tried them? Can they be modified to fit?
 

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Comp. Eng. weld in connectors have the front spring box mount welded on them and are designed to be used with their rear rails. They can be modified to work by cutting the mount off. I did this to use their rear rails with the connectors I already had. If I ever do it again I will save the money and make my own. All you need is 2"x2" box tube. Something around .063 should work fine. It will cost you around $20-$30. There are many ways to do it. I used the CW ones and have been very happy with them. Using the 2x2 will require cutting the floor. welding them in will be stronger it connects them to the car in more places. Like others have said you can use the bolt in ones and then weld every where they touch the car.
 

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I used the Global West weld in connectors. Fit well, no interference with the floor or cables.
X2! I also have the Global West weld ins. I have considered welding a 2 inch section of angle iron from the seat braces to the connectors where they pass underneath, just for another tie-in point.
 

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Just go buy some heavy wall tube in either 2x4 or 2x3 and make them, weld in. You will be surprised at how inexpensive a couple sticks of tubing is compared to the "kits" that are available. Its just simple tubing... Weld in is my choice. JR
 

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Bolt in connectors can have the bolt holes elongate over time, so you should get them tacked in when you can.

For solid connectors, I have heard (and believe) that solid subframe bushings are a good idea if you can swing it, since it should all be rigid.

Either way, they make a big difference in the beaming (and to a lesser extent the torsional) stiffness of the chassis.
 

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Has anyone just pushed up the floor to clear the weld in C.E connectors, so you don't have to cut. It seams like it would work.
 

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I HAD to cut the floor on my 70. I like them. I have the rear frame rails also. Still in the process of getting everything welded into the car. When I worked in the flooring industry,the saying was -measure twice and cut once. With my car its-measure about 15 times then measure again,lol
 
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