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Discussion Starter #1
i want to install frame connectors,not sure what the better installation is, im leaning toward bolt in because it is less permanent. or is that a waste of time?welding isnt the problem, im just leary of anything that i cant remove easily if i change my mind.
 

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good question...............l'd like to know also
l usly just bolt it tight clearences gona flex anyways
 

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i have bolt in, but i custom made mine from 2x2 tubing and cross bolted them between the e-brake bracket and spring bucket and subframe bolts, very ridgid and easy to r&r.
 

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I have the bolt in too. They do a pretty good job of stiffing the car. My door seams stay the same when I jack up the car. If I were building a 9 second car, I opt for the weld in, but otherwise, I think bolt-ins are good.
 

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From what i hear weld in ones just stiffing the car up a bit more. You can always weld in the bolt on ones.
 

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I used the bolt ins and welded them in. If you use the weld ins the floor pan has to be notched and some have to have new frame rails added in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for all the input ,its the cutting i wanna stay away from ,not the welding.im happy to see so many positive replies for the bolt ins thanks again guys:D
 

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I've had bolt-ins for a few years now. I did notice it became stiffer. I'm glad we went that route considering I just pulled the front subframe for a rebuild and engine/trans swap. Little more difficult with weld-ins...
 

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I use the bolt in's as well and weld them once I have the car back on the ground.
 

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I'm going for the bolt in myself, if I still can. I found out what happen with this car... someone started a build on it not too long ago... they removed the factory front sub frame and put a 78 trans am subframe under this car..thats why the front tires are hitting the fender wells...( the geometry is to wide right?) the rear end is out of the 78 trans am to...this is according to the guy that use to own the car before the guy I got it from had it.... damn thats alot of bouncing around. They cut the frame on back under the body and welded them together (wtf?) I'm going to have to buy new frame just so I can do the bolt on front end...right? I was looking at one Chris Alston Chassisworks has. I dont know if I want to get any deeper in this car LOL :D the body is solid from what I've seen so far so there is still hope..its just going to COST MORE! :devil: I'll get pics when I take the 454 out of it.
 

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You can get a used frame for $150. I wouldn't mess with the one you have.
 

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You can get a used frame for $150. I wouldn't mess with the one you have.
Yeah, I've already checked into man. The **** isn't safe the way they did it either... welds look like chicken crap. Where you find one that cheep? I found new for 250.00 ..if I was to buy from someone on here from states away from me it would still be cheeper to get new ones. Locally no one would let that go that cheep...old car parts and muscle cars are GOLD here. Thats why I get nothing locally here.There is a shop in Shelby, NC called the weldshop I called and left a message for them to get back in touch with me.Although it sounded more like someones personal voice mail... I'll know by tomorrow if there still in business or not.Maybe Big Al ( Hint, Hint :poke:) might know where I can get something like that his way In Newton/Conover , NC ? Which is only like... an hour drive for me at best.
 

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I installed some from Detroit Speed. You cut the floor out and they are tucked up higher than most. I didn't want to weld them to the frame so I modified them to where they bolt on to the frame. I used grade 8 bolts, 5/8 x 5 1/2" long. Here's some picture's of the end of the frame and the connectors cut in the floor.






 

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When I had my Mustang faze when I was younger, I would use bolt in frame connectors. Then one day while driving I heard a rattle when I hit bumps and could not find it until I shook the subframe connectors. They had egg shaped the holes and were moving around, ever since then I always weld connectors in.

Just my $.02
 

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I went with global west bolt ins which were very easy to install, I also opted for the solid subframe to body conectors to keep it stiff. I would just make sure you check your bolts from time to time to make sure they are tight so you don't run into the egg shaped hole problem.
 

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Sounds good man. The Alston kit is supposed to be "no fabing" to install it. We'll see when I get it. This is starting to add up fast I figured I would toss 10g's at the car and have it going within 2 years.. now I'm going to have 10g's in just the front sub kit and mini tub with rims and tires. The wife made a comment when I was pricing the Alston kit :eek:.. but she'll appreciate it being safe later when she & the kids are cruising in it with me. :yes:
 
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