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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I don't know why I started this although I know it needs to be done but uh oh. I don't have tools for body work, a welder or anything. I guess I really wanted to see how much bondo was on the car in this one area. This took about 30 minutes.





Not as deep as I originally thought:)
 

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if the trim is on the car, remove it carefully then do the bodywork...

hard to tell from the images, but it doesn't look too bad... get some longblocks, medium length blocks and shortys and take your time. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My trim was glued on like a new chevy truck. That black stuff is the glue residue left on by the trim. It is old and beat up and will not be reused.

Yeah it doesn't look to bad we will see once I get all the bondo off. There are a few holes in the fender lip but doesn't seem to be that bad either. I will try to take a few better pics tomorrow or so.
 

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depending on what the adhesive is made of you'll either chemically remove it or there is a big pencil eraser type tool that removes stickers & trim glue. drive by your local auto body paint supply and have the guy look at it. get that stuff off before you start sanding it into the metal... it'll contaminate the steel...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
depending on what the adhesive is made of you'll either chemically remove it or there is a big pencil eraser type tool that removes stickers & trim glue. drive by your local auto body paint supply and have the guy look at it. get that stuff off before you start sanding it into the metal... it'll contaminate the steel...
Interesting, I didn't know it could contaminate the metal. You don't think airplane stripper would work on it. I didn't try I just stripped around the glue.
 

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Surprise, surprise...........It'll buff out. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got about 10 hrs into the roof alone. It took 2 jars of naval jelly, 4 steel wool pads and a few hrs of sanding to make it look like this. Rust free at last.

All those spots were black before.


Then after I got to look like this I put this on it.


Then used some self etching primer and got this.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Its OK to use steel wool on something like that? Just asking b/c I thought steel wool was a no-no? You could also just spray it with phosphoric acid once you had the metal pretty clean.

Not crackin' on you or your work, just trying to learn

Andy
I read a bunch of stuff on how to get all those little black rust spots out. Because by sanding a lone I could not get them all out. You need to either sand blast/media blast or use a chemical. I chose the chemical. Then use the steel wool tool to get into all those little black holes. It works great.

I think its ok, but the steel wool left my metal really smooth so I sanded it one more time with 80 grit paper to give it bite.
 

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TAKE YOUR TIME BRO! YOU'LL GET THERE! :thumbsup:
 

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Rat's suggestion is a good one. A little phosphoric acid take those light rust spots right off. Klean Strip prep and etch at Home Depot. A little on a rag and you can rub those rust spots right off. let it sit for a few minutes then wipe it clean with a damp rag. No issues with primer adhesion either. Just like Metal Ready from the Por 15 people only 1/10 the price. Don't get it on any paint you want to keep however.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The reason I started all this paint stripping was to see how bad the bondo is on this area.



Right underneath the body line there is a long indentation.

What would you do with this rust spot, new lip. Underneath is solid, no rust. I got a screw driver and tried to push through with no luck on the 3 spots.
 

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The rust is going to be worse on the backside of the sheetmetal. Cut it out so you can get to the outer wheelhouse and correct both. I know you think the wheelhouse is ok but chances are there are problems under the metal that will bite you later. Take your time, do it once and do it correctly. By the way the area above the wheel is the most difficult area to get strait while maintaing the curved bodyline on the first gen cars. I worked mine at least 6 or 7 times before I was happy. :turn:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
By the way the area above the wheel is the most difficult area to get strait while maintaing the curved bodyline on the first gen cars. I worked mine at least 6 or 7 times before I was happy. :turn:
You were able to do it with a body hammer and dolly?
 
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