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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi I have a 1962 nova I bought as a project someone else started. It has been back halved and has tubs and new quarters etc. my question is should I support the rear “c” pillar area where that was all cut out. The wheel tubs he installed and thin enough they flex when you push with your finger. He did attach the trunk hinge mounts to them and that seems to be ok. I have noticed that when i pick the car up by the frame the gap on my drivers door changes so i must be getting some kind of body flex. It seems the only thing supporting the roof back there is the rear quarter panels and I don’t think that is enough. It does have a cage but still flexes. Just want to know which direction to go from here. I have pictures I will upload
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Ted, you may want to remove some of the pics. I agree with your assessment. If it's caged and properly "tubbed", it should be stiffer that it was new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ted, you may want to remove some of the pics. I agree with your assessment. If it's caged and properly "tubbed", it should be stiffer that it was new.
Thanks. I don’t know how so many got uploaded. It said i was only allowed ten. I tried to edit and remove the duplicates but that doesn’t work either. Lol
 

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Wholly gap Batman!! Everything needs to be welded SOLID to the tubs. The trunk hinge supports need more as well, they’re only tacked. Just think of the way things were attached when in stock configuration, everything was solidly mounted to provide structural rigidity.
 

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This post gave me life tonight. Thank you for the time loop pictures. I truly had a good laugh your post (in a good way)! As for the technicals, it concerns me a lot that your car would flex that much with the cage in it. Maybe I'm wrong but it should be stiffer, not less so.
 

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So I count 63 links that should be pictures but I only get a ”oops something is wrong” page when I try to open them.. I don’t imagine you need or meant to upload that many pics but 10 or so is probably more then sufficient..

Try deleting all the pictures and reloading them. If you have a slow connection sometimes the pictures load slowly so you have to baby sit the loading process. This happens to me on my phone sometimes..

Based on the eyes of others who have seen some of the pictures, I gather that the welding is not finished and to what extent that is I am not able to see but I will assume that it is all just tack welded.. If this is the case then the whole enchilada just might be big ol wigglie mess. You’re going to have to get the car sitting as plumb, level, and square to see if everything is situated as it should be.

If it was properly caged and finish welded I would not expect any chassis flex..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wholly gap Batman!! Everything needs to be welded SOLID to the tubs. The trunk hinge supports need more as well, they’re only tacked. Just think of the way things were attached when in stock configuration, everything was solidly mounted to provide structural rigidity.
Wholly gap Batman!! Everything needs to be welded SOLID to the tubs. The trunk hinge supports need more as well, they’re only tacked. Just think of the way things were attached when in stock configuration, everything was solidly mounted to provide structural rigidity.
Right I agree with what you’re saying but these tubs aren’t strong enough to support anything. I will add some sort of support that ties to the frame rails but would like to see or hear some ideas as to the best way to do this. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I count 63 links that should be pictures but I only get a ”oops something is wrong” page when I try to open them.. I don’t imagine you need or meant to upload that many pics but 10 or so is probably more then sufficient..

Try deleting all the pictures and reloading them. If you have a slow connection sometimes the pictures load slowly so you have to baby sit the loading process. This happens to me on my phone sometimes..

Based on the eyes of others who have seen some of the pictures, I gather that the welding is not finished and to what extent that has is I am not able to see but I will assume that it is all just tack welded.. If this is the case then the whole enchilada just might be big ol wigglie mess. You’re going to have to get the car sitting as plumb, level, and square to see if everything is situated as it should be.

If it was probably caged and finish welded I would not expect any chassis flex..
Yeah I don’t know what’s up with the pictures. I only have 9, and I did delete them and re-upload them last night. Now they won’t display at all. ????? I do have some work to finish that’s why I’m asking. Would like to see or hear how other people have went about it. I am leery attaching anything to these tubs since they are so thin. They definitely will not support much. At least that’s what I think. I may be wrong?
 

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I'm a nobody but I think all that stuff needs to be welded(better). Especially if its flexing with all the upgrades. If it's a 4 link you might need to look into additional bracing at the rear quarters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm a nobody but I think all that stuff needs to be welded(better). Especially if its flexing with all the upgrades. If it's a 4 link you might need to look into additional bracing at the rear quarters.
Thanks
 

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Out of morbid curiosity, how is the front subframe connected to the pan? Are there any subframe connectors (bolted/welded) connecting the new back-half or just the stock mounts to the pan and the cage/roll bar and back-half welded to the pan? A single picture of the underside could shed some light as to the rigidity issue... I agree with all above on the stiffness though for sure. Need to get to connecting all the metal back there via welded connections, not tacking. Even just welding all that creates structural rigidity as the angles and ° will all be bound rather than just hanging out there in the breeze...
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Out of morbid curiosity, how is the front subframe connected to the pan? Are there any subframe connectors (bolted/welded) connecting the new back-half or just the stock mounts to the pan and the cage/roll bar and back-half welded to the pan? A single picture of the underside could shed some light as to the rigidity issue... I agree with all above on the stiffness though for sure. Need to get to connecting all the metal back there via welded connections, not tacking. Even just welding all that creates structural rigidity as the angles and ° will all be bound rather than just hanging out there in the breeze...
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There is 2 x2 square tube from rear frame to the front subframe. And the cage is welded to that section up front as well. I definitely was going to weld, support, brace all that in the rear I just wanted some feedback on what is proper way. These tubs aren’t as thick as the factory wheel wells, so I don’t know if welding to them would be suffice or I have even heard of some people saying the wheel tubs caused dimples on their quarter panels. I don’t know if he welded the tubs to the quarters, all I can see is seam sealer. Thanks
 

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There is 2 x2 square tube from rear frame to the front subframe. And the cage is welded to that section up front as well. I definitely was going to weld, support, brace all that in the rear I just wanted some feedback on what is proper way. These tubs aren’t as thick as the factory wheel wells, so I don’t know if welding to them would be suffice or I have even heard of some people saying the wheel tubs caused dimples on their quarter panels. I don’t know if he welded the tubs to the quarters, all I can see is seam sealer. Thanks
Looking at some of the pics, it appears all new rear quarters were applied too at some point in the build prior to you getting the car. I think you're right as far as the seam sealer goes and not sure how to handle that but, as long as the rest is welded up properly, given the fact you have a tubbed back-halfed car, you likely won't be driving this in the rain... I hope :p

The top arrow is where I am seeing what appear to be maybe some small spot welds along the sheet metal flange of the newer rear quarter... the lower red arrow is the seam sealer? Am I seeing this correctly?

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looking at some of the pics, it appears all new rear quarters were applied too at some point in the build prior to you getting the car. I think you're right as far as the seam sealer goes and not sure how to handle that but, as long as the rest is welded up properly, given the fact you have a tubbed back-halfed car, you likely won't be driving this in the rain... I hope :p

The top arrow is where I am seeing what appear to be maybe some small spot welds along the sheet metal flange of the newer rear quarter... the lower red arrow is the seam sealer? Am I seeing this correctly?

View attachment 419112
Yes you are correct. Sorry for the delayed response but I had replied back earlier and I checked today and it didn’t show up?
 

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I don’t like the seem sealer.. You can’t see the welds. You will have to determine how well the tubs are attached..

I’ve seen some other builds where the trunk hinges have been moved inboard and tied into the cage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don’t like the seem sealer.. You can’t see the welds. You will have to determine how well the tubs are attached..

I’ve seen some other builds where the trunk hinges have been moved inboard and tied into the cage.
Right that’s the big question but i have read of people not welding tubs to quarters especially if they are aluminum
 
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