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Discussion Starter #1
I've been working on a door using Bondo. It's relatively straight now but it and other panels need a little more work to make straighter.

How does the Evercoat line or other brands compare to Bondo regarding ease of sanding and pinhole prevention? Any tips or tricks to use either brand?

Would using a 24" or 30" Durablock with 100-120 grit for rough sanding then going to finer paper for finish sanding help?

Either way, I plan on skimming w/glaze, sanding, then primer surfacer.
 

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Evercoat glaze coat sands easy and will fill pinholes in filler... I cut it with 120 and step up to 180-220. Use of a guide coat may help you get it straight
 

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I've been working on a door using Bondo. It's relatively straight now but it and other panels need a little more work to make straighter.

How does the Evercoat line or other brands compare to Bondo regarding ease of sanding and pinhole prevention? Any tips or tricks to use either brand?

Would using a 24" or 30" Durablock with 100-120 grit for rough sanding then going to finer paper for finish sanding help?

Either way, I plan on skimming w/glaze, sanding, then primer surfacer.
evercoat makes good products..ive been using "platinum" which i think is made by Marson..it seems to be pretty good stuff as well.....i always work body filler with a block...the bigger the better depending on how large of an area your working with
 

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I used Evercoat Rage Gold.......It works better (applies and sands much nicer) than the old Bondo band pink filler. I bought all my bodyword supplies from www.tcpglobal.com
Ron
Yup, thats what I used. And dont forget, it doesnt have all the pin hole problems like the Pink (bondo) does. And heck, the Pink is rock hard, errr, dont like it much at all. For glaze I used EC metal glaze. Worked ok, nothing to right home about. Other than it is pretty thin, easy to push into the pin holes and fill scratches. JR
 

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ITS WORTH THE MONEY !!!! (Old timmer body guys don't welcome new ways remeber that)

Good luck

Steve
Really:rolleyes:

I use Rage Gold, Extreme and have changed from Extreme to Marsons.
Changed from PPG to Matrix. Also use Dura blocks and few others plus
home made. And yes I'm old:(

Chuck
 

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Really:rolleyes:

I use Rage Gold, Extreme and have changed from Extreme to Marsons.
Changed from PPG to Matrix. Also use Dura blocks and few others plus
home made. And yes I'm old:(

Chuck
Ya almost gotta change huh. Cause its a chemical business and you know them chemists. They are always cooking up new stuff in the lab. As technology changes its good to try new stuff. And then an amateur (myself) can ride on the backs of the pros as they try the new stuff out. Thanks guys!! JR
 

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Ya almost gotta change huh. Cause its a chemical business and you know them chemists. They are always cooking up new stuff in the lab. As technology changes its good to try new stuff. And then an amateur (myself) can ride on the backs of the pros as they try the new stuff out. Thanks guys!! JR
I think he means the "quick turnaround shops" as they have a track record
of what works for them....doesn't mean for the longrun, just warranty good.

Just a broad based remark that kinda got under my skin...I've tried many
many new or unknown fillers, paints, fiberglass etc. Some are superior to
what we use but are really high dollar and would not be popular.

Chuck
 

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Filler

Didn't mean to ofend anyone but i have to laugh ...i worked for my painter / body shop man for one year and decide i need to fo bad to school,

His comment about my dura block was ....he only owns a 4 inch rubber block and he get everything strainght why do you need them ... i have to laugh
because "" I did all of my body work and when he shoot the car he WOW that thing is Straight ....and i said it was the long blocks.


I belive in Long blocks and long hours pays off, my car i straighter then most i see at my local show's and i did it MYSELF i can say that.

Another trick is do all your filler work then shoot a product like Slicksand Polyester filler then block block block and shoot with a 2k primer.

IT TAKES TIME AND A NICE WIFE TO DEAL WITH THE DUST IN THE HOUSE!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Rage Gold ,,,,,,and yes i am a used dura blocks i have a BLACK car and its very striaght due to the LONG blocks.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sanding-blocks-hand-sanders-c-474.aspx?pagenum=2

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sanding-blocks-hand-sanders-c-474.aspx?i purchased the 5 peice kit then added two longer blocks i think the 18 & 24

ITS WORTH THE MONEY !!!! (Old timmer body guys don't welcome new ways remeber that)

Good luck

Steve
Thanks to all for the info. This has been a great help.

Just a few other questions that come to mind:

I will most likely go with Evercoat Rage Gold and cover the entire panel at once, then sand it all together w/a 24" or 30" block. How do the 30" Dura blocks compare to the 24"? Will I notice a difference in straightness? (Trying to get 2 doors and a hood straight.)

Can I the cover the entire door with the Metal Glaze or will it crack like the red Glazing & Spot Putty tube stuff you find practically everywhere? I'd cover the door skin entirely w/Glaze then wet sand starting w/180 then going progressively finer. (Not sure if it would be better to go this route or just fill in the little pin holes, then hit it w/Slicksand then 2k primer.)
 

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Actually I like these long and short sanders better than Dura blocks but both
have their place. Got mine from my local jobber though.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/afssanders.aspx

If you have been using bondo and are semi close I would skip the Gold
and use marson platinum. Little cheaper and has very small voids. Then
use the metal glaze. Marson's is very easy to sand and feather. The
glaze-iceing type products are two part spot putty if you will. Stay
away from the old red glazing puttys and 3M green, blue & red spot
puttys as well.

I would also skip the Slicksand and go straight to the highbuild primer.

Chuck
 
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