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First time poster, long time lurker. I have a '71 Nova that I believe originally had a 6cyl. I got it with a 350 and wound up getting a great deal on a 396 that I have swapped in. Now i'm on to the hookup of everything. I notice that the engine currently has a long water pump (no fan attached yet) and can already see that it's going to be right up against the radiator when that's re-installed. If i switch to a short water pump will that solve my problems? Is the radiator support my problem? I was considering going with electric fans but can't even see those fitting with it's current set up. As it is already this thing seems jammed in there. The stock hood doesn't even seem like it's going to fit on. Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you.
 

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Yes, i ordered them from ground up and swapped them out for what was there. The one's I put in were a tad higher on the drivers side (if i remember right) to help the headers clear the steering box.
 

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That was the only thing I could think of. I have a small block. Someone will chime in that has done the big block swap.. Good luck:)
 

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With a long water pump, the fan bolts directly to the waterpump. There is no clutch or spacer. I don't have any pics of mine, but it does fit. As for the hood, what intake are you running? Most intakes with a droped base air cleaner should fit under the stock hood, with out any spacers.

If you switch to the short water pump you'll need the new pump, a new set of pulleys, alternator and power steering pump brackets, and you'll have to change the alternator wiring a little since it will now be on the driver side of the engine. With that set up you can run a clutch fan.
 

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Heres a pic of my 454 with long water pump, this setup works very nice and fits, rad is 31x19x3 griffen, 20x2 cake pan shroud, 1" fan spacer, and 18" 7 blade Heavy duty stainless flex o lite fan using a 160 stat temps stay at 170, all clearences are ideal for max cooling, have all specs on another post. Have 14" 7 blade electric secondary pusher for dream cruising.
 

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Yes, my core support is the original. That's what i was afraid of, having to swap out all the components. I was hoping that it woudl have just been the crankshaft pulley. A picture is worth a thousand words, thanks! I think what i'll do is get the old stock radiator that i have in the garage as well as the old fan and just do a mock up with those parts to see what it looks like. From your picture it all looks tight, which is what i was worried about, but it seems like you make it work. As for the hood...i'm running a edelbrock performer rpm with a holley 770. I'll have to do the same with that and throw on an air cleaner and get the hood out of the basement and test fit it.
On initial viewing...it just looks like i'm cramming this thing in there and nothing is going to fit. Thanks for your help guys.
 

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My 69's are exactly the same as your 71 and they use a long water pump with no spacers as well. As for the air filter assembly you need a repop L78 drop base style for more clearance, I have an air gap intake with an 850 that clears my hood.:yes:

Here's the OE drop base.



Non drop base, you can see it's higher.


Here's the fan it sits real close to the rad.
 

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bb issues..

Do you still have the original 6 cyl/sb radiator..?? if so you will need the correct BB style and you will have to open up the front of the core support(driver's side).....I think the sb/6 cyl rads sit a little closer to the engine bay than the BB unit...the BB rad. bolts to the support. A 3 or 4 core rad wil work with the long water pump and a factory steel fan or flex style with small depth blades. I like some of the aftermarket 6/7 blade steel fans...they move a lot of air. If you need more hep or pics semd me an email....

wilma

[email protected]
 

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~~ i see many bleeding knuckles and fingers after installing a fan that tight against the radiator ~~~
LOL! aint that the truth!:yes:

It's better to do before the rad!
 

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Do you still have the original 6 cyl/sb radiator..?? if so you will need the correct BB style and you will have to open up the front of the core support(driver's side).....I think the sb/6 cyl rads sit a little closer to the engine bay than the BB unit...the BB rad. bolts to the support. A 3 or 4 core rad wil work with the long water pump and a factory steel fan or flex style with small depth blades. I like some of the aftermarket 6/7 blade steel fans...they move a lot of air. If you need more hep or pics semd me an email....

wilma

[email protected]
Actually a stock style Sb radiator will fit just fine. It dosen't sit any closer to the engine than the BB radiator does. I'm using a Summit universal aluminum radiator that sit's in the stock cradle mounts and it fit's just fine.
 

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Heres a pic of my 454 with long water pump, this setup works very nice and fits, rad is 31x19x3 griffen, 20x2 cake pan shroud, 1" fan spacer, and 18" 7 blade Heavy duty stainless flex o lite fan using a 160 stat temps stay at 170, all clearences are ideal for max cooling, have all specs on another post. Have 14" 7 blade electric secondary pusher for dream cruising.

Hatchback, Did you use the 73-74 style smallblock motormounts for this conversion or the older 68-72BB frame stands and mounts?
 

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I went from a 6 cyl to a 427, I used a 6 cyl core support and a Griffin aluminum radiator, Taurus 2 speed fan and CSR electric pump. My pulleys and brackets are for a long water pump. I used to have a stock long pump. No matter which way you go it will be tight.



I used big block frame mounts both sets were for a big block as you can see the shorter were cheap Chinese junk and the others are from a good US supplier.

Left


Right


I still have a header and power steering hose fitment issue. Mine is the same as my buddies 67 BB Camaro, But I have the cheap $450 Hooker Super Comps to his $700 Super Comps...Go figure. It will work it just gets tight.
 

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Its definitely a tight fit. I have a 454 & my fan is right up against my 4 core radiator. I bought the BB radiator with the tabs from Classic Muscle and the tabs moved it 3/8" out away from the radiator support. It wouldve made my 1/2" of clearance to about 1/8" (that wasnt gonna work). Had to cut them off.
I have an edelbrock performer intake with a holley 750. Even with a dropped base air cleaner it was just a bit too high for a stock hood. I just ended up getting a 2" cowl hood at a swap meet which fit like a glove.

I also had to bore out the holes on my BB 68-70 brackets just a wee bit to get them to fit right.

It was definitely a "make it work" scenario.
 

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subscribing.

I use an 18 inch flex(pn 1818) fan with a 1.5" spacer to get the fan to about 1" from the radiator, with a long water pump. I dont have a fan shroud yey but Im gonna do the cake pan deal that badbob did. I sat in traffic one day and temps went to 210 so I know I need a spacer. I also bought a 12" fan for the front to use as a pusher for "just-in-case"

Dr. Denny, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE take some detailed pics of your taurus fan swap. I can barely see anything now. I would love to fit one of those in place of the flex fan. what are the dimensions of your radiator.? how about the fan? how deep is it really, and how wide is it from end to end. Im trying to determine if it can be offset to one side to clear the fan hump
 

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not trying to hijack a thread but..

a friend of mine told me that i could reuse all my small block motor mounts and it would make a big block sit lower than it would with big block motor mounts. is this true?

i may be going through the sbc to bbc swap soon as well. im also interested in some more pictures of the taurus fan. do you run it off a thermostat switch? not sure how a 2 speed fan would work but it looks like decent fit. im going to be using a 31x19 griffin so i wasnt sure what fan/shroud to use yet.
 

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not trying to hijack a thread but..

a friend of mine told me that i could reuse all my small block motor mounts and it would make a big block sit lower than it would with big block motor mounts. is this true?

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Yes, you can, but you may also run into clearance issues for the exhaust at the steering box and tall valve covers will hit the brake booster, so for $100 you could have to dent your header and be restricted to low profile valve covers. You can't really tell here, but there's only an 1/8" from valve cover to the booster.

 

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hmm. i should be all set with manual brakes and manual steering. i have two sets of A body headers with the exact same part number but with the tubes bent in different ways. not sure of brand. hoping one of those sets will fit my 74. ill take pictures when i start on mine.
 
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