big block build...bench racing :D

1796 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by sproosemoose, Nov 9, 2007

sproosemoose

Discussion Starter · Nov 7, 2007

i'm looking to build myself a motor that will run 95-100mph in the 1/8th mile naturally aspirated in what will probably end up being a 3600-3700lb car with the big block swap. last time i weighed it with an iron-headed small block, half a tank, and me in it was 3580. it shouldn't be much different because i pulled all the interior and added a cage. my setup is listed in my sig, but i'm wondering what kind of parts i should be looking for to make this power level.

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Paul Wright

· #2 · Nov 7, 2007

If you are starting from scratch, then spec aluminum heads on this big block. Aftermarket Iron heads aren't that much cheaper and the weight savings will be significant.

No sense in making the change for a "little" big block. Even a 454 is little by todays standards.

Not too long ago, Competition Products had 496 CID 12.7:1 (w/118cc heads) 6.385" rod big block short blocks for $3395.

Add some good heads and you'll be able to meet your goals and then some.

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D-Man

· #3 · Nov 7, 2007

I'll x2 what Paul said. Even if you build your own 454 block, the 488/496 stroker kits are under 2k these days. Couple that with a good set of aftermarket aluminum heads (especially the cnc'd versions like the DART 335's, Canfield 320's, etc.) matched with the right cam and you'll find a whole new world of traction problems!!

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jason snyder

· #4 · Nov 7, 2007

ID go with a cheap 468 , 95 mph in the eight is no big deal for a
468 built right. It might be a bit radical ,but it is a race car yah?

obviously you know what your doing !! and i think you could whip up a big block easily !!
I think it depends on how reliable you want this car!! ( HOW MUCH TO SPEND)
If you have cash just buy a longer stroke because you can .

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Nova_Guy

· #5 · Nov 7, 2007

This mild combo puts my car through the traps at 7.50's to 7.70's at 95mph in the 1/8 mile.

Engine Specs: 468ci--454 block bored .060 oversize
14" x 4” K&N X Stream air flow lid with K&N sub stack
800 double pumper Holley--Aeroquip fuel line
Edelbrock 454-R intake with 1/2-inch phenolic spacer
MSD distributor, MSD 6AL ignition box, MSD 8mm wires & MSD coil
Edelbrock 454-R Aluminum Heads 2.19in 1.88ex 116cc with open chambers
ARP Head studs and bolts used throughout engine
Edelbrock 454-R Camshaft .560 intake/.573 exhaust 240/246 @ .050
Competition Cams Roller Rocker, Competition Cams 3/8 hardened pushrods
Moroso Stud Girdle & Moroso valley pan
Moroso aluminum water pump with
4 Bolt main high nickel block, aligned bored, decked, honed with deck plates with brass freeze plugs
4150 Steel crank internally balanced
10-1 SRP forged pistons
7/16 dimple rods with ARP wave lock bolts
Cloyes true roller timing chain and gears
Moroso 6 six-quart oil pan and pickup

Drive train: T-350
Hurst ¼ Stick 2 shifter
******* Performance 3500 Converter
12-bolt rear axle with Yukon 4.10 gear & posi-traction
Summit rear end cover brace
Strange Axles with C-clip eliminators

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jason snyder

· #6 · Nov 8, 2007

Nova_Guy said:
This mild combo puts my car through the traps at 7.50's to 7.70's at 95mph in the 1/8 mile.

Engine Specs: 468ci--454 block bored .060 oversize
14" x 4” K&N X Stream air flow lid with K&N sub stack
800 double pumper Holley--Aeroquip fuel line
Edelbrock 454-R intake with 1/2-inch phenolic spacer
MSD distributor, MSD 6AL ignition box, MSD 8mm wires & MSD coil
Edelbrock 454-R Aluminum Heads 2.19in 1.88ex 116cc with open chambers
ARP Head studs and bolts used throughout engine
Edelbrock 454-R Camshaft .560 intake/.573 exhaust 240/246 @ .050
Competition Cams Roller Rocker, Competition Cams 3/8 hardened pushrods
Moroso Stud Girdle & Moroso valley pan
Moroso aluminum water pump with
4 Bolt main high nickel block, aligned bored, decked, honed with deck plates with brass freeze plugs
4150 Steel crank internally balanced
10-1 SRP forged pistons
7/16 dimple rods with ARP wave lock bolts
Cloyes true roller timing chain and gears
Moroso 6 six-quart oil pan and pickup

Drive train: T-350
Hurst ¼ Stick 2 shifter
******* Performance 3500 Converter
12-bolt rear axle with Yukon 4.10 gear & posi-traction
Summit rear end cover brace
Strange Axles with C-clip eliminators

BINGO!!!!!!

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sproosemoose

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 8, 2007

my current setup has put me to a 7.39 at 92mph N/A and on a 125 shot to 6.97 at 100. i'd like to exceed that N/A number with the new motor (a 489 or 496 is what i'm going to shoot for) but have something easier to drive. i don't want to have to get a competition license or put a funny car cage in it and ideally i would like to be able to run pump gas and be able to drive it around town easier. the car will still see mostly track time, but i'd like a little more driveability out of it. should i go straight for rectangle port heads?

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D-Man

· #8 · Nov 8, 2007

For the larger inches, yes.. But stay with the smaller volume rectangle ports. There's a LOT of people that just shoot straight for the 345-355cc heads and wonder why it makes all of the right noises but runs real soggy under 5000. For as-cast heads I'd look at heads in the 310 neighborhood and if you were really gonna try and wring it dry, a set of the 320-330 cnc'd heads would no doubt make you happy..

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sproosemoose

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 8, 2007

next question: currently i shift my small block at around 700-7200rpm, i'd like to cut that down a little with the big block to around 6000-6500, what type of cam specs should i look at to keep my R's in that range with the amount of inches (489 or 496)? the issue i'm running into is that i don't know what's "big" for a big block

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D-Man

· #10 · Nov 8, 2007

Now you're asking too much in my opinion..

The cam shouldn't be spec'd out until you have your combination completely planned, have all of the pertinent info, and cylinder head flow numbers. The cam shaft is like the keystone at the top of an arch. It's the final piece of the puzzle that has to fit everything. Once you know for sure what C.I. you're building and with what compression, heads, converter, weight, gears, tire sizes, TRUE vehicle intentions, etc... then we can more accurately discuss cam specs. Or at least point you in the right direction. There's a few true wizards out there if you can get in touch with them!!

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sproosemoose

Discussion Starter · #11 · Nov 9, 2007

excellent point sir, and well taken. i'm just trying to get a feel for what i should keep my eyes open for. this motor will probably not even be together by the close of 2008 but i'm not familiar with BBC's at all and am looking for some places to start. can anyone recommend some good reading on rat motors?

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