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One of my ground cables attaches to the body in the rear via a sheet metal screw. Can anyone recommend a more secure way of attaching the cable to the body? It is not possible to access the backside so through bolting is out of the question. I had thought about welding a 1/4" bolt to the sheet metal and attaching that way but am looking for other methods. Thanks in advance!
 

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I just edited my reply as I had glanced over not being able to access the backside so I have to ask, does this ground HAVE to be there ?. Just asking but what is this ground for. Relocating a ground should not pose any issues if it's just moved some on the same piece of metal. I have before on race cars welded a nut to a roll cage to serve as a ground point for things.

So with that said how I would do it is to drill a hole then use nuts and bolts with either internal toothed lock washers or external toothed lock washers and then before putting the things together, remove the paint and/or rust around the drilled hole down to nice bare metal on BOTH sides.
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Years ago when I did a lot of underhood connections for things like alarms, cruise controls, relays, and such I would make the ground connections and then sometimes cover the connection with some black silicone.

Jim
 

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There’s always nutserts ? I’ve used them for a lot of different things.
These have saved me countless times!!:D
 

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Yep, rivet nut/nut-sert! You will need to buy the tool in order to install it.

 

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Yep, rivet nut/nut-sert! You will need to buy the tool in order to install it.
the TOOL - - buy it = yes .

BUT, if you are only doing a few "nut-sert" installs - - -- - -- I have done those 'with-out any Tool' .

(ps - - - I DO have a "MAC - nut sert install tool" , for several sizes ) .

Then, you can use just a BOLT & NUT installed on top of the 'nut-sert' ; thus holding the unit (flat) in place ,
. . . . hold the NUT and Turn the BOLT . . . (generally , tightening the bolt by hand, NO power tool)
drawing up the lower section of the 'SERT' and TIGHTING
the lower section in " to the hole up , against the metal " .
Granted - - - - you need the "drilled hole" to be drilled for a tight fit (helps keep the nut-sert from
spinning , inside the drilled hole) . it will work , just start slow .

This would be better for ONLY Doing a few holes . . . . . . . OR . . . . . . just buy th ' proper tool ' ,
and then , you're good too go .

note : when using this 'bolt & nut' for installing a few "nut-serts" . . . check your BOLT - - make sure
that it screws completely to the bottom of the nut-sert , and has enough threads to draw-up the
"lower sert portion , against the metal" .



( ( I would buy a couple of extra nut-sert's of the size needed . . . and practice installing one , 1st .
...... "nut-serts" come in different styles and materials , and sizes . . . . choose which type will work , best for your install
) ) .


This type nut-sert is the style too buy . . . WHY ?
Two reasons :
1st . - - the small "top Lip / flange " keeps the nut-sert from falling into
the drilled hole .

2nd . - - the " Knurled body " - - helps the lower portion grip the metal .

3rd . - - READ the description posted in "post # 4 - ' Hanson Rivets ' .

4th . - - THIS type Nut-Sert IS HARDER too install / or "SET" (Crimp)
.............. because it's metal (not aluminum) . . . . . . . be aware .
.............. thus . . . the 'buy one too practice with .


C65-THINNUT

During installation the body collapses on the back side which grips the inside of the
drilled hole , against the metal .

. . . jim
 

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OK . . . . . I DID forget one item . . . . . .

When using this "BOLT & NUT " trick to install ' Nut - Serts ' . . . . . .

I would take whichever NUT you were using . . . . AND , DRILL OUT THE THREADS .

(drill through the threads in- side the nut . . . . Does that make sense ? ) .

Say you are going too use : A 1/4" Bolt & Nut = take a 1/4 " drill bit and RUN - IT Through the
NUT . . . Thus MAKING the NUT into a SPACER .


INSERT the BOLT & NUT into the NUT-SERT ; then, PLACE UNIT into DRILLED HOLE ;
HOLD NUT - (flat) with your WRENCH and TIGHTEN BOLT , DRAWING the NUT-SERT up Against
the METAL . Seating the LOWER PORTION of the ' SERT ' against the Metal . . . .
DONE .

jim
 

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^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ . . . . thanks , Rick .
My point , exactly , some places - - - that TOOL is too big to Fit , where you need to go .

# 1 - - showing a Riv - nut / Nut-Sert tool . . . .



# 2 - - MAC brand tool ................... with extra 'nut-serts' - different sizes .



# 3 - - tool ; nose piece , spindle stud , and nut-sert ( big one is for 3/8" ) .



# 4 - - or - - - the smaller (close quarters fit) . . . unit . This is where I got the ' idea for using the
bolt & nut . . . . . for those hard to reach = tight spots .



Even using the 5/16 allen wrench , takes room to turn the wrench .

# 5 - - showing another "store bought installing tool " . . . . then, I just use either the allen wrench
or the 3/8 " (in this case) , HEX Head Bolt . . . . .
notice : the "saw - tooth" spacer . . . . . that helps grip the Nut-Sert , while installing .



hey guys . . . . . . . we all like pictures . . . . . . . . (it was a slow - HOT - day ) .

just another idea . . . . later , jim
 

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I always use star lock washers to get a good bite for any grounding connection. I put one on each side of the terminal.
 
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