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if i'm wrong somebody chime in, run it in park/nuetral at 1500 to 2000 rpm 15 min, change oil, take it to the street in first get it wound up and let off letting the engine wind itself down- no brakes applied, do this 4-5 times. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
if i'm wrong somebody chime in, run it in park/nuetral at 1500 to 2000 rpm 15 min, change oil, take it to the street in first get it wound up and let off letting the engine wind itself down- no brakes applied, do this 4-5 times. good luck.
Ok here's one little problem I still have to do the initial cam break in also:confused:
 

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Ok here's one little problem I still have to do the initial cam break in also:confused:
Ok, thats what the neutral/park rpms is doing, breaking the cam in. sorry i should have explained what each operation does. after the cam is broke in by the mid level rpms, making sure you use a good quality oil and break in additive, then change your oil and filter, then hit the road doin the wind up let off-no brake.let it wind all the way down, 4-5 times, thats for seating the rings. im guessing if their chrome moly its different, not sure for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, thats what the neutral/park rpms is doing, breaking the cam in. sorry i should have explained what each operation does. after the cam is broke in by the mid level rpms, making sure you use a good quality oil and break in additive, then change your oil and filter, then hit the road doin the wind up let off-no brake.let it wind all the way down, 4-5 times, thats for seating the rings. im guessing if their chrome moly its different, not sure for them.
I don't think its moly ones and I'm going to use amsoil break in oil for the first 400 miles then run some rotella straight 30 after for the first 2 years then royal purple isnt the initial cam break in 30 minutes? But ok the ring break in seems easy enough nothing complicated
 

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I don't think its moly ones and I'm going to use amsoil break in oil for the first 400 miles then run some rotella straight 30 after for the first 2 years then royal purple isnt the initial cam break in 30 minutes? But ok the ring break in seems easy enough nothing complicated
that can work. I've known some guys that just reved it for 10 minutes and then drove it. 15 to 20 works. 30 will work also. probably best to call your .engine guy cause I assume there's probably a warranty involved. then you can find out what kind of rings you have too. it's all a matter of preference. good luck.
 

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1967 Chevy II nova Hardtop
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First things first:
1. Call your engine builder. When asking, Do so from a position of knowledgeable respect. Do not act as though you've never done this before but from the aspect of wanting to do it by his rules. Inexperience will be used against you if anything goes wrong.
2. If it's a flat tappet focus on that first. In initial startup the cam is the most critical component. Rings while important have more leeway.
3. Choose the more conservative option. Often folks will say, "After the cams broke in you can hit red line" Maybe, Maybe not. Why risk it. Driving the car easy for several hundred miles while you tweak the fuel and ignition can't hurt and in the long run may increase the life of the engine.
4. Finally, Drive it like you stole it! Remember, That's why you built it in the first place.:yes::D:yes:
 

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I like to use a little transmission fluid or transmission fluid mixed with a little WD-40 to coat the cylinders and ring compressor when I assemble the engine. The rings seem to seat really well when using this which I found out about 30 years ago.

I never start my new engines till I am ready to either drive them or high idle them to break in the cam.

Once cam is broke in get out on the highway and accelerate from 30 to 60 or 70 and let off. Let it coast back to around 30-40 mph and repeat for about 10 times or so. If it's hilly where you live, just let it coast down the backside of the hills.

I have about 2500 miles on mine since I did it about a year ago and can't get it to use any oil.

Did a 76 KZ900 rering, 4 carb rebuild, and valve job a couple years back. I use a little WD-40 in those cylinders, worked great.

Drive it a little aggressively, but no full throttle for about 500 miles unless it's used just for racing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First things first:
1. Call your engine builder. When asking, Do so from a position of knowledgeable respect. Do not act as though you've never done this before but from the aspect of wanting to do it by his rules. Inexperience will be used against you if anything goes wrong.
2. If it's a flat tappet focus on that first. In initial startup the cam is the most critical component. Rings while important have more leeway.
3. Choose the more conservative option. Often folks will say, "After the cams broke in you can hit red line" Maybe, Maybe not. Why risk it. Driving the car easy for several hundred miles while you tweak the fuel and ignition can't hurt and in the long run may increase the life of the engine.
4. Finally, Drive it like you stole it! Remember, That's why you built it in the first place.:yes::D:yes:
Oh I plan on on driving it like its stolen ha ha I will end up talking to him and seeing what he recommends so I do it right hes my uncles friend so hes cool so ill soak this all in talk to him and get her running properly can't have flat cam lobes on my first build
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I like to use a little transmission fluid or transmission fluid mixed with a little WD-40 to coat the cylinders and ring compressor when I assemble the engine. The rings seem to seat really well when using this which I found out about 30 years ago.

I never start my new engines till I am ready to either drive them or high idle them to break in the cam.

Once cam is broke in get out on the highway and accelerate from 30 to 60 or 70 and let off. Let it coast back to around 30-40 mph and repeat for about 10 times or so. If it's hilly where you live, just let it coast down the backside of the hills.

I have about 2500 miles on mine since I did it about a year ago and can't get it to use any oil.

Did a 76 KZ900 rering, 4 carb rebuild, and valve job a couple years back. I use a little WD-40 in those cylinders, worked great.

Drive it a little aggressively, but no full throttle for about 500 miles unless it's used just for racing.
What can be done if motor is already assembled? Can you still put some on top of pistons and let it soak down?
 

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What can be done if motor is already assembled? Can you still put some on top of pistons and let it soak down?
You could give it a couple a squirt or two from an oil can and spin the engine over with the plugs out of it.

With the right machine work, hone job, and assembly it should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You could give it a couple a squirt or two from an oil can and spin the engine over with the plugs out of it.

With the right machine work, hone job, and assembly it should be good.
I believe as far as work the guy who did my work its done right he builds tons of sbc and as for putting that on top of the pistons how much wd 40 with how much trans fluid? thanks
 

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It really depends on the machine done, cylinder finish and equipment being used if it was palte honed.

If it was done correctly ther should not be much break in time needed.

I have seen to many engines built with out the proper work done and after many miles and after a leak down test I have found up to 40% leak down on a new build.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It really depends on the machine done, cylinder finish and equipment being used if it was palte honed.

If it was done correctly ther should not be much break in time needed.

I have seen to many engines built with out the proper work done and after many miles and after a leak down test I have found up to 40% leak down on a new build.
Honestly I don't know I know hes been around for 40 something years and he builds just about everyones rods so he must be doing something right now how do I check for leaks down when its done? Just a compression check?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Make sure you use break in lube
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-Cams-159-Camshaft-Break-In-Lube-Oil-Additive-/190757628627?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6a0a6ad3&vxp=mtr
Make sure you use lots of fans pointed at the engine when you break it in....your headers are gonna glow red
Run it at 1500-2500rpms for 20 minutes....I use a ziptie on the throttle linkage to hold it in place.....look for leaks...especially fuel.....if you find any shut it down...fix and start again
Im going to be using amsoil break in oil and I plan on doing it this winter I probably won't need more than two fans I I hope
 

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Honestly I don't know I know hes been around for 40 something years and he builds just about everyones rods so he must be doing something right now how do I check for leaks down when its done? Just a compression check?
I have a friend thats been building engines for years and has no clue about plate honing and ring seal.

Do a search on leak down testing.
 

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It really depends on the machine done, cylinder finish and equipment being used if it was palte honed.

If it was done correctly ther should not be much break in time needed.

I have seen to many engines built with out the proper work done and after many miles and after a leak down test I have found up to 40% leak down on a new build.
I realize there are secrets to every trade but would you be willing to share the best cylinder wall treatment for performance street engines?
 
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