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Discussion Starter #1
I am in need of some leaf springs for my 70 Nova. Some of you may have read that my fenders were rubbing on my 275 tires. I wanted a lift anyways so I went with the cheap long shackles. This raised it 2" exactly and now the fender lip is right at the top of the tire. I realized I still need new springs because the driver side sags and when anyone is in the back seat the fender just drops back down onto the tire. There's no more spring in the leafs. Also, have my 9" shackles to the very last hole should jack it up more than just even with the top of the tire. Not saying I really want to go that much higher, but I would like the option.

So, what are the best leaf springs to go with. I have found a few, but what did you go with and how does yours look. I would really love to see before and afer pics if you have them. What would you recommend. I have found a few options, but shipping on some of the sites is ridiculous. So, I want it to be a sure thing so I don't have to mess with shipping back and forth.

Here is what I found so far. I would really love to have the 2" lift that I currently have, but without the shackles. Then the shackles can help me to get maybe another inch or so over the top of the tire. Anyone have experience with any of these springs below?

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/oer-rl5/overview/

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9603

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/oer-rl11/none/images

Its so hard to tell by the descriptions. I would love to talk to someone who actually has experience with this and did what I am trying to do so that I don't have to re-invent the wheel. Please help guys. Thanks.
 

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I don't know what area you live in, but are there any spring companies close by ?.

The springs (mono leafs) on my 68 are tired and I was going to order a new set but I'm hesitant as I do not know how the car will sit with them. Even if I had an original spring, I wonder how the car would sit with that I have in the trunk most of the time or how it would be with the trunk unloaded and with or without people in the car besides myself.

Anyway, I was at a large swap meet this weekend about 4 hours away from home and came across a vendor from Saint Louis Spring and we talked a while and while he does not offer mono leaf springs, he offers a three leaf and a 5 leaf spring assembly. I told him I was concerned about the ride height either being too high or too low and he said if I buy the springs from him he offers the service of reworking them to get them how I want AND it's done at no charge. All I have to do is put them on and if the car needs to sit an inch or two higher, or an inch or two lower he can re-arch them. With it being a local shop this would save any shipping and excessive down times and while he gave me a price I cannot remember it seemed inline with what I've seen elsewhere and online.

I told him too that I would rather support a local shop and with the service he offer's of adjusting the springs I am probably going that route with him SO maybe see if you have any spring companies located close to you.

Just for more info, here is the spring company in Saint Louis:

http://www.saintlouisspring.com/

Jim
 

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Why not from the OEM?
Eaton Spring
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't know what area you live in, but are there any spring companies close by ?.

The springs (mono leafs) on my 68 are tired and I was going to order a new set but I'm hesitant as I do not know how the car will sit with them. Even if I had an original spring, I wonder how the car would sit with that I have in the trunk most of the time or how it would be with the trunk unloaded and with or without people in the car besides myself.

Anyway, I was at a large swap meet this weekend about 4 hours away from home and came across a vendor from Saint Louis Spring and we talked a while and while he does not offer mono leaf springs, he offers a three leaf and a 5 leaf spring assembly. I told him I was concerned about the ride height either being too high or too low and he said if I buy the springs from him he offers the service of reworking them to get them how I want AND it's done at no charge. All I have to do is put them on and if the car needs to sit an inch or two higher, or an inch or two lower he can re-arch them. With it being a local shop this would save any shipping and excessive down times and while he gave me a price I cannot remember it seemed inline with what I've seen elsewhere and online.

I told him too that I would rather support a local shop and with the service he offer's of adjusting the springs I am probably going that route with him SO maybe see if you have any spring companies located close to you.

Just for more info, here is the spring company in Saint Louis:

http://www.saintlouisspring.com/

Jim
I took you up on your advice and looked around for a local shop. There is only one spring shop about 30 min away. They would do it similar to what your guy said, but I completely forgot about labor. What started at $300 springs to my door now turned I to $600 for them to buy and install. I think I will have to do this on my own and go with a 5 leaf stock height with the shackles or the more expensive 2.5 inch lift ones and maybe no shackles.

Any tips or tricks to doing this myself?
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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You will just have to evaluate how the nuts and bolts are as well as the bushings and go from there and if while taking it apart you find something you didn't see or is in need of replacement, gather the parts and go from there.

Like anything else, you want to be safe and have the car properly supported.

When putting things back together, maybe add some anti-sieze on the bolts so that if later things have to be taken apart, it's less hassle.

The springs should be straight forward to replace but be aware there are locating pins on the springs that fit into holes on the rear axle mounts and these are far putting the rear axle in the proper spot front to rear or inother words locating it properly.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You will just have to evaluate how the nuts and bolts are as well as the bushings and go from there and if while taking it apart you find something you didn't see or is in need of replacement, gather the parts and go from there.

Like anything else, you want to be safe and have the car properly supported.

When putting things back together, maybe add some anti-sieze on the bolts so that if later things have to be taken apart, it's less hassle.

The springs should be straight forward to replace but be aware there are locating pins on the springs that fit into holes on the rear axle mounts and these are far putting the rear axle in the proper spot front to rear or inother words locating it properly.

Jim
Okay, thank you. What is that stuff called that you can spray on the nuts and let sit to loosen them?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
WD-40 or PB blaster will work. I also bought a new set of rear springs but the car sat to high for me, so I got the springs De-arched 2".Cost was 100.00
What set of springs did you get? Do you have a link? Also do you have any pictures of how it looked with the springs at their higher position?

I bought the 2-1/2" lift springs. I am hoping this will be just right. But as my car currently sits, I need about another inch, so I am hoping that the new springs will put the stance to how it is now (with fully extended shackles) and then I can use maybe the first or second hole on the shackles to get another inch if needed. I want an inch gap between fender and tire. Currently the lip sits right on the tire or lower when sitting in it. Going over bumps or putting someone in the back, forget it. So a stiffer and 1" higher stance would be ideal. Keep in mind the lowered hot rod look I haven't caught the bug yet and am still stuck in the 70s jacked up look. Love it!
 

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I would also add that you do one side at a time and not take both sides totally apart, it will help you keep things in alignment for reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Probably cheaper and look better to get wheels with the correct offset.
I like the way the wheels are and I am also going for the slightly lifted jacked up look. So backspacing is only going in the wrong direction for me at this point.

New springs should be here sometimes next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would also add that you do one side at a time and not take both sides totally apart, it will help you keep things in alignment for reassembly.
Great idea, thank you. I am trying to think how this will go step by step.

-Take off tire
-Put a jack under axle
-Take off traction bar
-Undue U-bolts
-undue rear shackles
-undue front spring connection
-Should fall right out correct?

Then...

-Lift spring into place with jack
-bolt in front spring
-bolt in rear spring with shackle
-Bolt in traction bar and U-bolts
-replace tire
-Let down and check estimated ball park stance

Then do other side. Is that it?
 

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What set of springs did you get? Do you have a link? Also do you have any pictures of how it looked with the springs at their higher position?

I bought the 2-1/2" lift springs. I am hoping this will be just right. But as my car currently sits, I need about another inch, so I am hoping that the new springs will put the stance to how it is now (with fully extended shackles) and then I can use maybe the first or second hole on the shackles to get another inch if needed. I want an inch gap between fender and tire. Currently the lip sits right on the tire or lower when sitting in it. Going over bumps or putting someone in the back, forget it. So a stiffer and 1" higher stance would be ideal. Keep in mind the lowered hot rod look I haven't caught the bug yet and am still stuck in the 70s jacked up look. Love it!
I bought mine at Luttys Chevy there were 5 leafs,no pics but it sat about 2" off the top of the tires.
 

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Pretty close, you will need to lift the body ahead of the front spring pocket, you could lift the car by the back bumper on the side your working with, ( both to be safe) if you can't get the front spring bolt out,you can remove the 3 bolts on the spring pocket.
 

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Raise the car up off the ground remove the tires. Use jack stands under the rear frame rails let the car rest on the jack stands. Use the jack to hold the rear in place. DON'T raise the car up under the rear, the springs sit under the rearend. That's why you want the car to rest on the jack stands.Use the jack to hold the rearend in place.Then remove the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Raise the car up off the ground remove the tires. Use jack stands under the rear frame rails let the car rest on the jack stands. Use the jack to hold the rear in place. DON'T raise the car up under the rear, the springs sit under the rearend. That's why you want the car to rest on the jack stands.Use the jack to hold the rearend in place.Then remove the spring.
Okay good idea. I have a lot of jack stands, so that is why I was thinking of using jack stands for the axle as well, but maybe the jack would be best so that I can lift and lower it much easier. Thanks for the tip.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Pretty close, you will need to lift the body ahead of the front spring pocket, you could lift the car by the back bumper on the side your working with, ( both to be safe) if you can't get the front spring bolt out,you can remove the 3 bolts on the spring pocket.
Okay, I will use this as reference once I start. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just in case anyone needs this for reference in the future, I figured it out and am very happy with the results. I used these 2.5" lift 5 leaf springs from SBtrucksprings.com
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9603

I also used 9" shackles to the last hole. I am loving the results. Ride is actually very nice and comfortable as well.

20170909_150514_fx by ssnovass396, on Flickr
20170909_144237_fx by ssnovass396, on Flickr
20170909_150544_fx by ssnovass396, on Flickr
 
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